1972 Chrysler 85, Tolletson carburetor tuning

[Nordin]

No need of sealant, maybe only some dots to hold the gasket in place before assembling the screws.
General torque spec for 1/4 in screws (if it is 1/4 in) and I always start to tighten the screws from the center and in a circular pattern CW when there are parts with a lot of screws and with a larger surface.

 

[Infinite Monkeys]

It's back together and running much better. But not great. Is this much smoke normal, or acceptable?
And it's not a smooth idle, seems to hichup some and wants to die when throttling down. I think the idle is at about 800 rpm, timing is at 31'ish, carb screws are 1 turn out. Seems to like that setting. What else can I do to make it run better. It does have above 125 compression in all cylinders.

Thanks again.

 

[Nordin]

Try to retard the timing til about 28-29 drg BTDC at WOT.
Let the engine warm up and then fine tune the carbs.
If you run at muffs set the idle at 1200 RPM, in water it will end up at about 700 RPM.
But you have to set the proper idle in gear in water.

 

[Infinite Monkeys]

Didn't have time today to work on it but I did get the Mercury 115 off the other boat I got. I would like to fix this Chrysler 85 and sell it.
I want to use the mercury 115 on this boat.
I slung the Mercury to remove it. It worked out but was not fun. After getting it on a stand, I bought a lifting ring and will use that for the install.
Question is, can I use the 1/4" bolts on the Chrysler fly wheel as a pull point? Using all three of course.
Thanks.

 

[Nordin]

I do not use the three holes in the flywheel for lifting.
I have made a lift ring by welding a ring at a nut fitting the thread at the crankshaft.
Older Chrysler had a lift ring bolted at the power head between the flywheel
and the head.
I think the 1/4 in bolts and the threads in the flywheel are to weak to use for lifting the whole engine.

 

[Infinite Monkeys]

Would someone happen to know the crankshaft thread nut size?

Thanks.

 

[Infinite Monkeys]

Well, no matter how I set the carbs, I can not get it stop smoking. As an experiment, I ran it without water hooked up for about 30 seconds and it smokes much less. I am going to replace the impeller and prop shaft seal anyway.
So is this a head gasket issue?

Thanks.

 

[racerone]

Perhaps use an oil that smokes less.-----Might cost a little more.-----And do you understand the concept of a 2 stroke and the reason for the smoke ?----When you operate the manual fuel pump does it go hard?-----Is thermostat in place?

 

[Infinite Monkeys]

Perhaps use an oil that smokes less.-----Might cost a little more.-----And do you understand the concept of a 2 stroke and the reason for the smoke ?----When you operate the manual fuel pump does it go hard?-----Is thermostat in place?

I understand why a 2 stroke smokes more. This smokes way too much. I tried a caned fuel premix, that smoked just as bad. I'm using Pennzoil, marine synthetic blend.
The bulb does go hard when primed.
And no idea on the thermostat ...........Please elaborate on that.
Thanks.

 

[racerone]

Thermostat is at the top of cylinder head I believe.

 

[Infinite Monkeys]

I can see where it is, but why would a thermostat effect how much it smokes.

 

[racerone]

Post a video of the engine running at idle on a hose.----Post a video of smoking with engine at full throttle.-----Note ----there are no " oil control rings " on this 2 stroke engine.------Smoke is normal.----especially at start-up.-----Oil recirculation passages in working order ?

 

[Nordin]

Racerone is right, these old 2 strokers smoke and it depends on the premix.
2-2,5 % two stroke oil is the ratio you have to go for.
When starting and cold they will smoke.
You have to check the recirculation check valves and the screens that are there.
If they are clogged it will smoke even more.

 

[topgun3690]

I can see where it is, but why would a thermostat effect how much it smokes.

Running at idle on muffs for extended periods, the plugs tend to get fouled....and without a thermostat will make it worse since engine will not be at proper operating temp. A good Italian tune up on the water will clear it up usually.....

 

[Infinite Monkeys]

I just ran it on muffs and it was much better, almost no smoke......... I think the cover I had over the water tank to catch the water was collecting the smoke and making it seem like a lot more than there actually was. Compare picture on post #22.
I'm using 50:1 mix.
Here's a picture of it running on muffs. An acceptable level, I think considering what it is........
But not done yet. There's water from the spark plug holes.
So new head and outer cover gaskets and a new thermostat while I'm in there. Is this the next step to fix this new issue?

Thank you all for the help!!!!

 

[topgun3690]

Sounds like you are on the right track.....in that pic hardly smoking at all.

 

[Infinite Monkeys]

Looks like the head gasket and the thermostat is readily available. The outer cover gasket PT #: F370996 is nowhere to be found.

So the options are to leave it all alone. Or just replace the head gasket and the thermostat with new and reuse the outer cover gasket with silicon. But I think it will blowout and leak even worst. Or just silicon the spark plugs threads to try and prevent water intrusion........

Any thoughts?

Thanks.

 

[topgun3690]

Need to do something about the water in the cylinder......checked that part # on marineengine.com, that # is for a gasket....after 3 or 4 part number revisions it is listed as a sealer only...they show to use Loctite 587 Blue instead of a gasket for the head cover.

 

[topgun3690]

On my motor they don't list a gasket for the cover, manual says to use a sealer....FYI.

 

[Infinite Monkeys]

Great.
There's gotta be some torque spec and sequence for the head bolts?
And are the head and outer cover bolts the same? If not then no need to remover the head.