1972 Checkmate MX-15 Rebuild

zool

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Aug 19, 2012
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Not for sale ... Believe the orig Cmate windshields were two piece. With a bar/upright in the center?


Yea, the open sides are the same tho......I still have the mounting brackets on the top of the gunnels..same for the v-mate too i believe....
 

zool

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Aug 19, 2012
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I'm going for the open cockpit design now anyway...like the Donzi 16 with just a snap around cockpit weather cover...
 

Buckischloo

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Feb 8, 2014
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Another cousin here, working on a Baja V1600, nearly identical to the cmate. No build tread yet, my progress is slower than a tortoise, about an hour a week. Mine was "free", yea right. I am getting to do balsa core, it was all mush. If it wasn't such a cool boat, it would be in the landfill. There is an MX14 rebuild on the checkmate site, also with a lot of pics. I can't decide between the foam boards you did or pour in foam. These get slammed on the waves a lot so I want solid support. Really enjoying your build.
 

zool

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Aug 19, 2012
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Hey Buck, there wasnt that much foam there to begin with and the boards seem to give it the same support as the pour in, if you shave them close. I did double up the stringer, and tab it with 34 oz of cloth and epoxy, so its stronger than before...I also beefed up the front bulkhead and am adding a bench support for the new front seats, which will tab into the new deck....it feels solid as a rock now when i move it around on the blocks its sitting on.

Welcome aboard ;)
 

zool

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Update:

Got some more done yesterday, while the weather warmed into the 50's. Basically I just did some more filleting of the deck board and bedded in the front bulkhead.

I grabbed an old battery to check for placement fitting in the bow, just forward of the bulkhead. It became apparent that i would need better access to it for maintenance and replacement, so i cut out a rectangle at the top of the bulkhead, centered above the battery area...should be no problem now getting to the terminals.

I also started mocking up some plywood pieces to make the front seat bases. I was gonna do a full bulkheaded base across the beam, but after rethinking it, it will allow much easier and safer access to the seats with an open walkway between. the individual bases will be tricky because the lay up the sides of the chine, so I will need a total of 15 small pieces that I will have to keep trimming to get them level and have continuity between both fronts. I also have to build the deck up a little higher for the battery tray to sit flat.....

Will post some pics a little later..
 

zool

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archbuilder

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Sep 12, 2009
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Glad to hear you are making progress! I am interested to see your pics. Seat bases always seem to be a pain in boats....nothing is ever flat or square.
 

archbuilder

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Lol I post and pictures appeared! I guess I needed to scroll over to the next page!
 

V153

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Apr 16, 2011
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Glad to hear you are making progress! I am interested to see your pics. Seat bases always seem to be a pain in boats....nothing is ever flat or square.
Had the pleasure of meeting Don Wedge. Of Aldon industries fame. He was fond of saying, "Boats are never plumb, square and level" ...
 

zool

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Aug 19, 2012
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Glad to hear you are making progress! I am interested to see your pics. Seat bases always seem to be a pain in boats....nothing is ever flat or square.


Heres the pics of the only template i have Arch, I saved this board the PO was using for the old seats, The height and spacing was good so I have that to work with, just tedious making the contoured triangles, so I used construction paper to draw the measurements and transferred to the ply.
View attachment y4mZ-HlmSWohmjBRVsSFz50MDu8wb-fEIHoVwBWf5wszTG2BFgQS67P4g_iyYBx5PPySh08nn374HL6dOVSX9kUNJ03Oo8CfjId5
View attachment y4mwB_YRLmZwgGkh1UsjghnUqLqZ9HarvxVCwqzGw-xyTCiaIbKE_fPup8u5lsnjGZDmdOoNNzgsBqC3ioCqjygwrHxTpRkj1ILq


Im probably better off using dimensional lumber for the top to lag bolt the seat swivels to.
 

archbuilder

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You are using some pre-made seats with pedestal bases? Or do I have my threads mixed up? I'm wondering if you might be better off to use to use stainless carriage bolts, inserted into the 2x from below? You could even over drill your holes and epoxy them in place. Just a thought, I hate lag bolts in boats It seems like they are always the point where the rot starts.
 

archbuilder

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or maybe glass up the 2x, then run the lags through a piece of 3/4" plywood and glass it down. Sort of a sacraficial plywood mounting plate that can we swapped out later if needed.
 

zool

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Aug 19, 2012
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Yea arch, thats my dilemma, I just know the pressure on the seats will eventually start to pull out the lag bolts. And yes, im using the pre made front buckets. I think you might be right in using bolts embedded in the top board from below, and just torque them down with nuts and lock washers.....If I ever have to replace the bolts, that would mean the top board will need to be replaced anyway. I dont plan on this rig being left out for more than a week anyway, and for sure not left uncovered...

Im gonna order two swivel bases that fit the seats before I cap the wood bases.....I think the bolt pattern on the swivel bases are standard for most seats, at least i hope :)
 

zool

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Hey Archbuilder, I noticed on your Sleekcraft you have the same "pit" in the back, did u end up putting a bilge pump in there?...Im planning to glass down a board and putting a low profile auto bilge pump there, just a bit concerned cuz it will be right under the fuel tank....
 

archbuilder

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Zool I did put my bilge pump there. I also put the sending unit for the depth finder in there. Tight squeeze, but it works well.
 

zool

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Aug 19, 2012
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Thanks, i think ill go that route too, did you use a thru hull transducer for the DF, or a bracketed one off the stern?

Trying to get the final pieces of wood cut so im planning ahead....back to grinding some more areas i need done :(
 

archbuilder

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Zool, I used an in hull vs a thru hull. Mounts on the hull inside, but no hole in the hull. I have been pretty happy with it.
 
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