1970's Aluminum Mckenzie Cherokee Runabout Rebuild

[jhendery]

Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

Now that I'm home and can see the pics big I have to say WOW someone butchered that transom skin bad.

For your height I'd come up at least as high as the SW. More importantly I'd look at your motor's shaft length and let that guide me.

Have you given any thought to having a sheet of AL welded in to try and correct?

TDF - yes, I am considering having a second aluminum transom skin welded into place. Please refer to post # 6 where I attempt to explain the details.

"My plan is to repair the existing transom skin using JB weld and sand to a smooth finish. I know there are other steps but I'll get to that later. Then I will have a second transom skin fabricated and welded into the recessed space. My thinking is the additional transom skin will add additional support for the wood core."

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

Nice job on the pressure washing, and getting ready for gluvit

Now that you have the hull pressure washed out, it looks as though the left & right 'ribs/stringers' that your deck will lay on isn't original to the boat's hull.

The longitudinal stringers running stem to stern are all riveted construction. Are there holes in the topside of those square tubes? Or evidence of welded closed screw/rivet holes? Not that it makes much difference, the 'newer/higher' stringers will give you a wider, flatter deck, just make sure to check all those support bracket welds really well. The PO that did the interesting work on the transom, may have welded the tabs because 1 or more had rivets that were loose, the tabs all look they were riveted & welded.....

 

[jhendery]

Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

Nice job on the pressure washing, and getting ready for gluvit

Now that you have the hull pressure washed out, it looks as though the left & right 'ribs/stringers' that your deck will lay on isn't original to the boat's hull.

The longitudinal stringers running stem to stern are all riveted construction. Are there holes in the topside of those square tubes? Or evidence of welded closed screw/rivet holes? Not that it makes much difference, the 'newer/higher' stringers will give you a wider, flatter deck, just make sure to check all those support bracket welds really well. The PO that did the interesting work on the transom, may have welded the tabs because 1 or more had rivets that were loose, the tabs all look they were riveted & welded.....

The deck was previously screwed into the top 'ribs'. I don't know if the 'ribs' are original or not but I know the ribs and welds are solid. Thanks.

 

[jhendery]

Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

The gunwales have snaps (not sure the real name) used for the boat cover. Over the years too many snaps have been installed and there are several that are not needed.

How difficult is it to replace the snaps? I was going to drill them out and repair the holes using JB weld.

But how do the new snaps get installed? Are new snaps easy to buy and install?

Thanks in advance.

 

[64osby]

Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

The ones on my boat are just screwed through the aluminum. I go around and tighten them every now & then. If I were to reinstall I would put a wood backer under the gunwale.

They are available on line, saw them on fleabay a while back.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/TONNEAU-BOA..._Accessories_Gear&hash=item257131aee2&vxp=mtr

Just make sure you get the right size

 

[jhendery]

Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

Thanks 64.

Well got a bunch of things done with LA Boat.

Snap rivets drilled out. (now I have even more holes)
Transom cut
Deck cut
Transom skin JB welded

I think the transom holes are going to patch up ok. I covered the inside holes of the transom skin with tape. Mixed several batches of JB weld and filled the transom holes. Covered the JB weld and outside hole with a piece of tape for a smooth finish. Maybe avoid a little sanding?

Here's how the new transom looks

transom and stern deck

and bow deck

I am thinking about how to build a small storage compartment. The storage area will be new to the bow. Before there was a raised platform that had a top and was filled with foam.

Guess what I found hidden in the foam?

Well it wasn't a beer cap.

It was this

The horizontal support runs between starboard and ports sides of the boat. Unfortunately the support bar is positioned in the center of my new storage compartment.

Would there be structural issues if I replace the raised support stringer with stringers riveted to the hull? Same as the other ones?

Thanks in advance. Jeff

Jobs this week ...

JB weld gunwlale and bow holes

 

[jhendery]

Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

I know there's gotta be a few folks who would have an opinion here.

Do I risk structural issues if I replace the raised support rib with ribs riveted to the hull? Similar to the other ribs before and after the raised rib viewed in the pic below.

 

[jigngrub]

Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

I wouldn't cut that latteral brace out J, it's there for a reason. I would try to work around it instead.

The boat is looking a lot better and you're making some good progress.

What do you plan to seal your transom and deck wood with?

 

[jhendery]

Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

I wouldn't cut that latteral brace out J, it's there for a reason. I would try to work around it instead.

The boat is looking a lot better and you're making some good progress.

What do you plan to seal your transom and deck wood with?

Yes. Perhaps best not to mess with structure.

I have the US Composites epoxy resin with medium hardener.

 

[jhendery]

Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

Going to use epoxy resin to bond the transom pieces together. I might as well get used to using t and applying the resin.

I realize I need to use a filler for 'peanut butter' like consistency. Is cabosil a good filler product? Is sawdust another alternative?

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

I realize I need to use a filler for 'peanut butter' like consistency. Is cabosil a good filler product? Is sawdust another alternative?

sawdust, like talcum, can be used as fillers, but are not recommended because they attract & hold water, which is what you're trying to avoid.....

Cabosil is good.

But if you're going to be using epoxy to glue the plywood transom together, I don't think you need to make PB for between the 2 pieces of ply. Apply the mixed epoxy to 1 pc of ply, lay 2nd pc of ply onto 1st, clamp/screw/weigh to prevent pcs from slipping/misaligning, or warping. Nor do you want to us PB to attach the transom ply to the interior surface of the boat's hull.

There is debate whether to use or not to use a wooden or aluminum plate (plastic cutting board) on the EXTERIOR side of the transom. If you do, you'd want to use 5200 or PL to adhere it to the hull, in addition to the thru bolts/screws that will then need to be sealed against water intrusion. But it is usually to prevent hull damage by the motor, hide previous damage, or because it's the way it was done previously or originally. It may not even slightly strengthen the transom, and is often described as un-necessary.

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

Going thru some of the threads here would be helpful. There are also others in the Starcraft owners group forum

As a tinny, the SC's resto's will be much closer to what you'll need to do, then most of the glass resto work in the Restoration forum. Although there are certainly other tin boats here.

 

[jhendery]

Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

sawdust, like talcum, can be used as fillers, but are not recommended because they attract & hold water, which is what you're trying to avoid.....

Cabosil is good.

But if you're going to be using epoxy to glue the plywood transom together, I don't think you need to make PB for between the 2 pieces of ply. Apply the mixed epoxy to 1 pc of ply, lay 2nd pc of ply onto 1st, clamp/screw/weigh to prevent pcs from slipping/misaligning, or warping. Nor do you want to us PB to attach the transom ply to the interior surface of the boat's hull.

There is debate whether to use or not to use a wooden or aluminum plate (plastic cutting board) on the EXTERIOR side of the transom. If you do, you'd want to use 5200 or PL to adhere it to the hull, in addition to the thru bolts/screws that will then need to be sealed against water intrusion. But it is usually to prevent hull damage by the motor, hide previous damage, or because it's the way it was done previously or originally. It may not even slightly strengthen the transom, and is often described as un-necessary.

Thanks JB. It seems other threads have used Cabosil when bonding the transom together with epoxy. Did a quick search online but I don't know where to find Cabosil?

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

Thanks JB. It seems other threads have used Cabosil when bonding the transom together with epoxy. Did a quick search online but I don't know where to find Cabosil?

Many (most) of the threads in the resto forum are fiberglass. Some of the materials & methods are similar, or they can be greatly different for a tinny.

For bonding the wood lamination of plywood onto a fiberglass transom, cabosil is widely used in making the thickened PB (peanut butter, pookie) used for that. Not that it can't be added to the plywood laminations during glue up, but I'm not sure it's needed. But I could be wrong.

Cabosil is typically added to resin or epoxy to thicken it into a more paste like consistancy for gap or hole filling, either surface defects/gaps in the wood or transom skin of the hull. Thickened it is less likely to run or sag, into or out of a hole.

Cabosil is available from USComposites.com, and many other sources... It is also known as Fumed Silica. Do a google search for it. They are both widely available online. If you find a fiberglass supplier, they should have the fumed silica or cabosil.

 

[jhendery]

Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

Colloidal silica filler on order along with g/flex epoxy for the exterior rivits.

Rained a bunch yesterday and filled the hull with 3 or 4 inches of water. I marked two pirspiring rivets. I am starting to research rivet guns. I am going to need a manual gun since I don't have air.

Another newbie question ... I measured the transom 1/2 inch above the bilge drain hole. Should the transom be measured 3 or 4 inches above the bilge drain hole where water is less likely to reach?

 

[jhendery]

Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

This is about the most action for LA boat draining the rain water.

Got a few more things done over the weekend. Cleaned up the interior transom skin with wire wheel. Sanded down JB weld and filled most of the remaining holes with JB weld. Need to apply another JB weld and more sanding ...

The topside, transom and gunwales have one coat applied.

Epoxy filler should arrive this week then going to bond the transom core together.

Came across this old Johnson OB at a community lake conservation event. Now that OB has character.

 

[jhendery]

Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

Got the transom bonded last night. Mixed the epoxy resin and hardener with the West Systems colloidal silica filler to a smooth consistency. Applied a generous amount to both sides, clamped them together and placed a bunch of weight on top. Should be good to go.

Not sure when I'll mix another batch of epoxy. Got lots of things going on. I am using the US Composites resin and hardener. Should I remove the pumps from the bottles and seal them up until the next use? What is the best product to clean and remove epoxy from the mixing tools? TIA!!

Also been working with JB weld. 1st application is down and sanded. Need another application on a bunch of holes and more sanding ...

 

[jigngrub]

Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

Got the transom bonded last night. Mixed the epoxy resin and hardener with the West Systems colloidal silica filler to a smooth consistency. Applied a generous amount to both sides, clamped them together and placed a bunch of weight on top. Should be good to go.

Not sure when I'll mix another batch of epoxy. Got lots of things going on. I am using the US Composites resin and hardener. Should I remove the pumps from the bottles and seal them up until the next use? What is the best product to clean and remove epoxy from the mixing tools? TIA!!

Also been working with JB weld. 1st application is down and sanded. Need another application on a bunch of holes and more sanding ...

I just leave the pumps in my bottles and position the spouts to over some cardboard or a plastic cup in case they drip.

I use mixing sticks I cut out of scrap wood and plastic solo cups to mix in, the sticks I can reuse when the epoxy sets up on the end... the cups go to the trash.

While the epoxy is still gooey it can be cleaned up with mineral spirits, after it set and cures it has to be cut, ground, or sanded off. I use a 3" putty knife for some applications and just let it cure on the blade and then cut it off with a wood chisel or razor (window) scraper.

 

[jhendery]

Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

I just leave the pumps in my bottles and position the spouts to over some cardboard or a plastic cup in case they drip.

I use mixing sticks I cut out of scrap wood and plastic solo cups to mix in, the sticks I can reuse when the epoxy sets up on the end... the cups go to the trash.

While the epoxy is still gooey it can be cleaned up with mineral spirits, after it set and cures it has to be cut, ground, or sanded off. I use a 3" putty knife for some applications and just let it cure on the blade and then cut it off with a wood chisel or razor (window) scraper.

Thanks Jig. I am concerned I may not epoxy again for another two or three weeks and don't want to risk damaging the product.

I have seen others use a drill and some kind of bit to mix the epoxy. Last night I used a 2" putty knife. Seemed to work ok. But I can do a better job with the drill. Any suggestions what to use for a mixing bit?

 

[jigngrub]

Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

One of these would probably work well:

http://www.homedepot.com/Paint-Pain...splay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&storeId=10051