1970's Aluminum Mckenzie Cherokee Runabout Rebuild

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jhendery

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Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

Nah, that'll just make a mess and you don't need it.

Thanks Jib. Was curious about using 5200 to install the rivets. Should I dab the rivet with 5200 when they're installed? Seems like a good idea to prevent water from penetrating the deck if possible.

I plan to finish the deck using Nautolex/vinyl and cover the rivets but I imagine water will find a way to penetrate?

:)
 
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jigngrub

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Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

I plan to finish the deck using Nautolex/vinyl and cover the rivets

:)

... and that is the absolute worst way to install a deck in an aluminum boat and the worst way to install nautolex too.

What're you going to do if you have to get below deck in the future?... rip up your nautolex to get to the rivets?

Nautolex is to be wrapped around the deck pieces individually and then the pieces are to be installed in the boat with the fasteners (rivets) exposed.

If you install the nautolex after the decking has been installed you have to use a continous strip of metal or wood around the edges fastened to the decking to hold the edges of the nautolex down to keep it from curling up. You don't have the curl problen when the vinyl is wrapped around the back of the plywood.

Take a look at my nautolex thread again and you'll see rivets on top of the vinyl holding the decking down:
http://forums.iboats.com/boat-resto...ir/97-tracker-pro-deep-v-facelift-509163.html

If you want to do the concealed rivet thing (I have a name for that build but won't say it here) I suggest you go with a paint on product like truck bed liner or paint with grit... and there's always carpet!
 

jhendery

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Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

Thanks Jig. Glad you don't beat around the bush and get right to the point. :)

I saw the Nautolex installed in your build and looks really sharp!

Like I said before you keep me on track. I will wrap and install each deck piece separately and have the rivets exposed.

Need to know if a regular hand construction stapler will work? I will have at least two coats of epoxy on each piece and would like to avoid staple issues. :(

La Boat is spending a night or two at an aluminum fabricator. Going to have those two aluminum transom cap pieces made up. $60 for the two pieces and two or three hours of work. Not too bad eh?

There is a Lowes nearby so I think I'll start there looking for Nautolex vinyl.

Have a good one folks. :)
 

jigngrub

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Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

I doubt you'll find the nautolex at any of the big box stores J, I bought mine online at Defender (they have the best price):

Marine Nautolex on Sale

The nautolex isn't your typical residential house type vinyl that's all shiny, smooth, and cushiony... it's a rather thin but very tough pebble grained vinyl. Here's a close up of a piece of scrap:

... and another for scale:


Like I said, it isn't a smooth cushion vinyl. Once it's installed it becomes hard just like the plywood it's on top of and can actually be considered abrasive for the non-slip finish. If you press your knuckles on it firmly and drag them quickly across the vinyl, you'll have skinned knuckles... I found this out the hard way during installation.

If you use the contact cement, you won't need to staple the vinyl to the back of the decking.

$60 for the transom pieces is a darn good deal!
 

jhendery

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Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

Thanks Jig.

Found a local supplier of Nautolex Seaway Vinyl. A little more expensive than the Defender site but often that's CDN pricing compared with US pricing.

Picked up the deck rivets this morning. For all the hassle I was charged for 100 rivets but they gave me a box of 250. I will have extras in the event anyone is interested.



Have a good one eh!

:)
 

jhendery

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Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

Picked up La Boat last night.

The transom cap pieces are good. They may need minor trim job but much improved. Pleased. :)

The bad news is I misplaced my phone last night and don't have pics to share. :(

The good news is I am getting a new phone and should have pics to share soon. :)

Need to get Nautolex material and more 5200.

Have a good one eh!
 

greenbush future

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Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

... and that is the absolute worst way to install a deck in an aluminum boat and the worst way to install nautolex too.

What're you going to do if you have to get below deck in the future?... rip up your nautolex to get to the rivets?

Nautolex is to be wrapped around the deck pieces individually and then the pieces are to be installed in the boat with the fasteners (rivets) exposed.

If you install the nautolex after the decking has been installed you have to use a continous strip of metal or wood around the edges fastened to the decking to hold the edges of the nautolex down to keep it from curling up. You don't have the curl problen when the vinyl is wrapped around the back of the plywood.

Take a look at my nautolex thread again and you'll see rivets on top of the vinyl holding the decking down:
http://forums.iboats.com/boat-resto...ir/97-tracker-pro-deep-v-facelift-509163.html

If you want to do the concealed rivet thing (I have a name for that build but won't say it here) I suggest you go with a paint on product like truck bed liner or paint with grit... and there's always carpet!

That is very similar to how I installed my floor with a older resto I did. I used Stainless Steel screws to install each wrapped section of the floor, very hard to find rivets that were big (long) enough to secure 1/2 inch vinyl wrapped flooring. I even added the stainless washers made for vinyl that gave me a larger area to grab a-hold of. It came out looking very good, and I was able to remove the floor anytime I need access below.

Also regarding staples, I used stainless steel staples when wrapping my floor panels, can be purchased at any big box. I also used the glue too. Rolling out the bubbles was key to a good looking job.
 
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jhendery

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Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

Also regarding staples, I used stainless steel staples when wrapping my floor panels, can be purchased at any big box. I also used the glue too. Rolling out the bubbles was key to a good looking job.

Thanks for chiming in GBF.

I am going with Nautolex Seaway Vinyl (shark grey) I will wrap the deck pieces and use cement to bond the vinyl with wood/epoxy. Should be good to go but if I need staples I will be ready. Thanks for the suggestion to roll-out the bubbles. I will keep that in mind.

Hoping to pickup 5200 at a local marine shop Saturday. Will eventually need 5200 to fill gaps for the transom cap starboard and port pieces. Will likely use SS hardware to install cap pieces and rivet into the splashwell.

Need to get the cap pieces trimmed. Maybe take them to work or I may attempt myself using angle grinder or Rockwell.

Have a good one eh! :)
 

jigngrub

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Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

Good rollers are an absolute must for a good looking and long lasting vinyl job J. They roll out air bubbles and compress the 2 glued surfaces together.

The Nautolex installation instructions will tell you to use a 150 lb. floor roller, but you can get these 2 rollers at Home depot instead:

... and still get 150 pounds of pressure on the vinyl.

The big one with the red rollers will be in the flooring dept and is a carpet/vinyl roller. The smaller "J" roller is actually a laminate roller that will be found in the cabinetry dept. The big roller makes short work of large ares and the J roller is good for rolling the vinyl that wraps around on the edge and back of the plywood. You'll want to bear down with all of your weight on both rollers to get the maximum pressure. Roll your vinyl front to back and then side to side to make sure you don't miss any spots, you can't roll it too much.

Check your vinyl job daily after covering the plywood for air bubbles for the first fews days after your finish, you should have any bubbles with the contact cement... but if you do, grab the rollers and roll them out.
 
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jhendery

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Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

Been a bit since last post ... hope everyone is doing well!

I figured out where to buy the Nautolex. Probably pick some up next week.

Thinking about buying more epoxy. I have a 3/4 full bottle of resin and hardener. I think the shelf life date is past due. Seems to go on ok but has a tacky film afterwards. But glad it's getting treated. :)

I know the bow pieces are exposed to water at the base so I think a well epoxied piece is essential.

Going to go with the contact cement with the Nautolex.

How much do I need?

Thanks in advance and have a good weekend!

:)
 

jigngrub

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Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

Agitating your hardener for the epoxy will help with the sticky residue, which is probably just amine blush and will wash off.

Start with a 1 gallon can of contact cement, you'll only need 1 coat on the epoxied plywood but 2 coats on the back of the nautolex. The nautolex has a porous backing that will pretty absorb just about all of the first coat. Follow the directions on the back of the contact cement can to the "T".

Backing on the nautolex:
 

jhendery

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Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

Thanks Jig.

I will bring the hardener into the house to warm and giver a stir.

Made some progress with the heat situation. Had an electrician come by to hookup 20 amp service in the garage. Looking forward to heat! :)

Need to finish the deck epoxy. Stern piece is finished - may need light sanding.

Middle deck has two coats and bow deck has 1 coat.

Not happy with epoxy residue so I may pickup another batch. We'll see how it goes.

Placed the order for Seaway Nautolex shark grey. In the end I settled with 10 yards.

Pleased to be getting back at La Boat.

Now did you think I would leave this post without pics ? .......

Here is the transom with transom cap pieces in rough place



Port side transom cap piece (may trim the square finish and follow transom curve)



La Boat before storage



Starboard dash mounting bracket



Port side dash mounting bracket

 

jhendery

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Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

Not sure if I mentioned it before but I got the workshop heater installed. After 2 hours the temperature is around 20 C or 68 F. Not too bad considering the outside temperature around here is -20 C.



And here is the nautolex cut for stern deck



middle deck



and bow deck



I left about 3 inches overhang to wrap around to backside.

Need to source contact cement and finish off epoxy on deck pieces.

BTW - I brought the epoxy inside and gave the hardener and resin a stir. Seem to have made an improvement. Still somewhat tacky but much improved.

Happy new year folks! :)
 
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jhendery

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Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

Had a go with the contact cement last evening.

The contact cement was maybe 1/3 ok and the rest of ball of blob. Probably caused with the cold temps in the garage. Instead of waiting I went ahead thinking it would dissolve. Nope. :(

I brushed a bunch onto the vinyl and it went on ok continued brushing onto bow deck and ran into the blob.

This morning there were a bunch of raised contact cement pieces. The orbital sander didn't prove much helpful. Neither was acetone. :(

I think the vinyl will be ok. The directions suggest contact cement can be applied to a dried first coat.

But not sure what to do with the bow deck? How much does it really need to come off?

Sanding just seems to spread it around but I managed to remove the raised pieces using a paint scraper.
 
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jigngrub

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Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

You can recoat the vinyl any time, and it's best to use 2 coats on the vinyl because the first coat is mostly absorbed into the porous backing.

For the plywood, I'd get it as smooth as possible. The texture of the vinyl does hide a little unevenness, but I wouldn't depend on that too much. I'd also apply a second coat to the plywood since it has set so long.

Be sure to read all of the directions for the contact cement application, working temperature is important and the directions state a minimum temp of 65*F (18.33*C) for the best bond and performance.

You'll also want to stir the contact cement well before each use (so you can see if it's blobbed out) and it does separate a little in the can after sitting undisturbed.
 

jhendery

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Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

You can recoat the vinyl any time, and it's best to use 2 coats on the vinyl because the first coat is mostly absorbed into the porous backing.

For the plywood, I'd get it as smooth as possible. The texture of the vinyl does hide a little unevenness, but I wouldn't depend on that too much. I'd also apply a second coat to the plywood since it has set so long.

Be sure to read all of the directions for the contact cement application, working temperature is important and the directions state a minimum temp of 65*F (18.33*C) for the best bond and performance.

You'll also want to stir the contact cement well before each use (so you can see if it's blobbed out) and it does separate a little in the can after sitting undisturbed.

Thanks Jig.

Yup. I am going to wait for warmer temps before I attempt the next application. I can heat the garage around 68 Fahrenheit somewhat easily. And I think I will wait for a warmer day.

I have smoothed out the deck fairly well. But it's still covered with a bunch of crappy contact cement. Will the second coat take care of it?

:)
 

jigngrub

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Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

You should be good with the second coat.

Do you have the carpet rollers for rolling the vinyl after you lay it on the contact cement?
 

jhendery

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Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

I have a roller that I am going to try. It's not a traditional carpet roller but I think it should work.
 

jhendery

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Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

Got the vinyl installed on the bow, middle and stern deck sections.

Actually got the bow deck finished up last Saturday. Had that piece to manage by myself. Rather nasty smell using that contact cement. The piece actually stuck together and I wasn't sure it would separate. Thankfully it did and the pockets are pretty much gone.

Finished up the middle and stern decks today. Brought the garage up to temperature and went to work. Thankfully I had second mates help today and the vinyl lined up well. No pockets to speak of. Pleased. :)

middle deck



stern deck



Have a good one eh! Supposed to be going cold again for the next week.

Brrrrrrr!

:)
 

kfa4303

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Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

Re: 1970's 16 ft Aluminum Mackenzie Runabout Rebuild

Lookin' good. The jack plate with trim and tilt looks real nice too ;) Is it a CMC brand?
 
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