1970 Starcraft Jupiter project

[Texasmark]

Re: Stainless steel hardware in an aluminum boat?

Re: Stainless steel hardware in an aluminum boat?

Quit worrying. Get some sleep tonight. MIL-STD-454 which is a military standard defining things for military applications has a metals compatibility table which I will read for you . Metals in the same group are kind to each other and corrosion due to electrolysis and other critters has minimal effect.

Alum. and SS are in Group II and the guideline says to use metals in connection with each other in the same group.

So sir, the US Defense department says that you can have your SS hardware on an alum boat.

Mark

 

[minuteman62-64]

Re: Stainless steel hardware in an aluminum boat?

Re: Stainless steel hardware in an aluminum boat?

Dave, if you plan to use that boat in freshwater, I do not think there is any issue with any kind of fastener. Salt water would be a different issue, as stainless will cause aluminum to corrode. Chrome plated brass is a good solution for cleats in salt water, but I don't know if it is less corrosive than stainless or not.

I have a 30 YO aluminum skiff used exclusively in salt water. At the salt water launch ramps here in the SD area I see a number of boats of similar vintage and construction - all are now using ss fasteners. My boat originally came with cad plated fasteners - which I have replaced with ss slathered with 4200. No corrosion evident in my boat of the similar models I have observed. I think the answer is that ss isn't perfect, but all things considered, for aluminum boats, it is the only game in town if aluminum rivets aren't an option.

 

[Chris1956]

Re: Stainless steel hardware in an aluminum boat?

Re: Stainless steel hardware in an aluminum boat?

Cadmium plated steel will not last too long in saltwater. Stainless steel items used underwater in the salty pond will increase aluminum corrosion. Zinc anodes will help a lot.

Not sure while Mark's book seems to indicate otherwise.

 

[Texasmark]

Re: Stainless steel hardware in an aluminum boat?

Re: Stainless steel hardware in an aluminum boat?

Cadmium plated steel will not last too long in saltwater. Stainless steel items used underwater in the salty pond will increase aluminum corrosion. Zinc anodes will help a lot.

Not sure while Mark's book seems to indicate otherwise.

Any dissimilar metal, in a conductive medium will move electrons through the process of "electrolysis" and in doing so move metals from one surface to another. The MIL standard simply says that metals in a particular group, and they list 4 distinct groups, do the least amount of sharing electrons.

In the water, Zinc is one of the softest sacrificial metals so it is used as such. It is deliberately placed on engines to reduce corrosion of their other metals. For what it's worth Zinc happens to be a Group II also as is Alum., Alum alloys, Cadmium, Tin, and Tin/Lead....solder used in electrical circuits. So, all these critters like each other and get along as fine as one can hope....if dealing with metals.

The MIL is probably on the www. You can probably call it up and read the whole 2000 or so pages if you want. The US Military has been designing and building hardware to it for probably 50 years to protect our service men/women in all the environments of the world, above and below, so who am I to question it. I just used to use it in making my living.

Mark

 

[Dave in VT]

Re: 1970 Starcraft Jupiter project

Hi folks, finally started on this crazy project. Managed to get the transom and floor out, cleaned up the bottom of the boat and filled with water. Found a few leaky rivets which I plan on tapping with a hammer while my friend holds another one against it on the inside of the boat. Next I will wipe everything down with acetone and then apply gluvit to the entire bottom inside.
Question: in the front, inside bottom is what appears to be some rust stains. How is this possible in an aluminum boat? Do I need to clean all that rust out? It's near one of the leaky rivets.

Pics coming soon!
Thanks!

Here's a picture of the rust area. any ideas?


Maybe I should post this in a new thread?

 

[North Beach]

Re: 1970 Starcraft Jupiter project

Dave you should just continue with one long running thread unless you have motor issues.

If that is rust then just hit it with a wire brush and be done with it. It could be from some other metal getting wet and leaching into the bilge area and staining the aluminum. Or it could be staining from the goop Starcraft uses in the area at the bottom of the bow, Either way just clean it up before you gluvit.

 

[barato2]

Re: 1970 Starcraft Jupiter project

NB is dead on.

i found LOTS of steel stuff under my ribs, mostly junk dropped by previous users of boat. this will eventually cause galvanic corrosion if not removed. try blasting down into ribs from outboard edge with hose or better yet pressure washer to wash everything down into center, then use old hacksaw blade, needlenose or hemostats, thin flatblade screwdriver, & magnet to clean out limber holes and be sure you have everything out from under.

 

[North Beach]

Re: 1970 Starcraft Jupiter project

What he said....

 

[Dave in VT]

Carpet vs Vinyl

Carpet vs Vinyl

Hi Folks,

I am replacing the floor of my 1970 Starcraft Jupiter and will (hopefully) soon be at the point where I will want to either lay in carpet or vinyl.
I've been told that carpet is easier to put down and that it will hide the rivet heads and any imperfections much better than vinyl. I also like the look and feel of carpet, but do wonder if it will get stinky and also whether or not it will protect the plywood below like vinyl is supposed to do (I don't really want to re-do the floor ever again!). Does marine carpet have a waterproof backing? Will it protect the floor as well as vinyl?
If vinyl will provide more protection from water and elements, I'm inclined to go with it, but I do wonder if it's true that I will see lots of ugly lumps and bumps from the rivet heads. I've also been told that the bumps create an air pocket which can allow water to settle, and also can tear. Is this true?

I plan on doing lots of fishing in the boat, but won't be cleaning the fish on board. I would expect that some amount of fish blood/slime can simply be washed out, right?
It will also be used as a pleasure craft for the wife and kid, and hopefully some water skiing when my daughter is older. I'm guessing they will enjoy the carpet more, but not if it stinks...

Thanks for your input!

 

[Teamster]

Re: Carpet vs Vinyl

Re: Carpet vs Vinyl

I put vinyl in my Amumacraft,...light gray in color,..

It is very easy to maintain and keep clean,.....

However it get's hot as all blazes in the summer,...

And VERY SLIPPERY in the late fall/winter when fishing in a snow storm,.....

 

[Georgesalmon]

Re: Carpet vs Vinyl

Re: Carpet vs Vinyl



I have a 20' with carpet and a 17' with vinyl. Like them both. No marine carpet that I've seen is "waterproof" but the backing is rubberish. I think the vinyl is easier to clean fish slime and blood off of with a quick rinse. I can clean it off the carpet but it takes more washing with a hose and when it gets dry its a pain. I have a wash down pump and hose on the carpeted boat and wash the carpet after almost every fish. I put a chunk of vinyl garage floor covering on top of the carpet in the stern though it gets hot in the sun. (can sorta see it in the pictures) Don't have that on the vinyl and wash with a hose when I get home or use a bucket on board. I'm in fresh water. My vinyl over rivets isn't ugly, you can feel the rivets with your hand but can't see them all that well. Both were about the same amount of work to install. Didn't answer your question did I. Everyone likes something different. I will say that I would conside vinyl if I ever have to replace the carpet however I just did it this spring and hope it will be a few years. The vinyl boat is at my sons so no picture, however the vinyl is going on 15 years old and still looks good, no tears.

 

[Bob_VT]

Re: Carpet vs Vinyl

Re: Carpet vs Vinyl

Dave, I installed carpet indoor outdoor from home depot and it looks and works fine. It's dealers choice I guess.

I merged your threads. This is your project thread and it makes it easier to have everything in one place so people do not have to hunt down what you are working on.

 

[Dave in VT]

Re: 1970 Starcraft Jupiter project

Thanks for the advice. I will probably go with the carpet...
Another question: the boat had a piece of 1/2" ply attached to the back outside of the transom. The motor was then through bolted through that piece of ply, the aluminum stern and then through the inch and a half plywood transom on the inside. Since I have extra pieces of 3/4" marine grade, I want to use that instead of the 1/2" for the outside. Is there a reason why that might be a bad idea?

 

[Georgesalmon]

Re: 1970 Starcraft Jupiter project

As long as you have the room for the motor 3/4 is fine. Just there to protect the aluminum from the motor.

 

[Dave in VT]

Re: 1970 Starcraft Jupiter project

Can you please explain what you mean by 'as long as there's room for the motor'? I cut the 3/4 ply to the same shape/size as the 1/2" ply... So the only change is in depth. Is there an issue for fit in terms of depth?

 

[Georgesalmon]

Re: 1970 Starcraft Jupiter project

I don't know what motor you have, didn't read the whole post. Just meant that some older motors have screw clamps and only so much room for the motor to mount on the transom. Just ran into this mounting my kicker. No problem if your motor is all bolt on and does not "hook" over the transom. I was only talking about depth.