1970 Starcraft Jupiter project

[North Beach]

Re: 1970 Starcraft Jupiter project

Well I guess there's more than one way to skin a cat. FYI, any roofing contractor would prob sell you some thing comparable from thier scraps pile fairly cheap. Hey is anyone else experiencing this choppy thing while typing on iBoats. Like your computor can't keep up with your typing?

 

[starcrafter65]

Re: 1970 Starcraft Jupiter project

The floor thing has beat to death - so I will stay adrift - but if there is going to be a fight in the parking lot about it - I will watch!!

I used Nautolex Vinyl for my floor covering - available at "Defender.com" - they are cheap and if you order from there you get a huge catalog that you put in your bathroom. I used Decko Dot flooring for my first boat and would not use it again - the vinyl is great.

Also - for painting - I would NOT strip down to bare - you don't have to - if that paint has stayed on for 42 years whatever you do in your garage is not going to hold as well. Wire brush it and paint over it.

Cheers!

 

[barato2]

Re: 1970 Starcraft Jupiter project

+1 on everything SC65 sez. do a "scuff n squirt" on the paint, you'll be glad you missed the stripper step. Nautolex is nice stuff and seems feet friendly, but i wish they had it in white or close to it.

but FEAR that Defender catalog...all newsprint, thick, full of stuff that the bigbox marine joints don't even know exists. you will spend MANY hours reading it and $ ordering stuff. DANGER, WILL ROBINSON........

 

[North Beach]

Re: 1970 Starcraft Jupiter project

Yea me too I'm staying outa that floor thing.... Dave I guess I went somewhere in between on paint removal. I didn't take it all the way to bare but I did sandblast around all the rivets and orbital sanded the crap out of the existing paint. Rember ZC on the bare metal and if you go Petit Easypoxy use the sandable primer first!

Now we'll quit arguing so you have room to post more pics.......

 

[Dave in VT]

Re: 1970 Starcraft Jupiter project

Hi folks, Thanks so much for all the input. I haven't posted in a while because I can't seem to find the time to get the project going! But the next few days should hopefully work...
I might start a new thread on this subject, but I'm now wondering about how to fasten the floor to the stringers in the boat once I get to that point (hopefully I will!). I was thinking about stainless self-tapping screws, but steel in aluminum causes corrosion, right? So do I need to use aluminum rivets? Can I find pop rivets long enough for that?
Thanks again!

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: 1970 Starcraft Jupiter project

You need to make sure you get the correct grip range for the deck plywood to stringer connection based on what you're using for each:

Rivets online

2nd rivets site

 

[Dave in VT]

Re: 1970 Starcraft Jupiter project

You need to make sure you get the correct grip range for the deck plywood to stringer connection based on what you're using for each:

Rivets online

2nd rivets site

It looks like the max grip length for any of these is 1/2". If I'm using 1/2 or 5/8" plywood and also have to go through the aluminum, that's not long enough, right? Any thoughts?
Thanks again!

 

[barato2]

Re: 1970 Starcraft Jupiter project

McMaster-Carr has em in 1" grip range, got 3 boxes of 25 large head ones shipped for abt $25

 

[Dave in VT]

Stainless steel hardware in an aluminum boat?

Stainless steel hardware in an aluminum boat?

Hi, I am replacing the transom on a 1970 Starcraft Jupiter aluminum hull boat. I noticed that a lot of the hardware (screws to secure the aluminum splashwelll to the wood part of the transom, for example), seem to be stainless. And the are up against the aluminum which I thought would cause corrosion. There are also bolts through the aluminum back of the transom that hold the wood piece in place which seem to be stainless.
The bIg bolts which secure the motor seem to be steel, but the nut is definitely alumInum...
What should I use when I replace all this hardware?

 

[bgc]

Re: Stainless steel hardware in an aluminum boat?

Re: Stainless steel hardware in an aluminum boat?

I always use a quality stainless fastner sealed with 5200 on the transom and motor mounts

 

[robert graham]

Re: Stainless steel hardware in an aluminum boat?

Re: Stainless steel hardware in an aluminum boat?

I have a 1999 aluminum boat and a 1983 aluminum canoe...all fasteners are stainless steel...no problems at all, so far!

 

[robert graham]

Re: Stainless steel hardware in an aluminum boat?

Re: Stainless steel hardware in an aluminum boat?

I have a 1999 Aluminum boat and a 1983 Aluminum canoe and all screws, bolts and fasteners are Stainless Steel....no problem, so far!

 

[kfa4303]

Re: Stainless steel hardware in an aluminum boat?

Re: Stainless steel hardware in an aluminum boat?

+1. SS and/or aluminum replacement rivets are the ONLY fasteners you should use on an aluminum boat. While SS is a dissimilar metal, it has little if any galvanic reactivity with aluminum and therefore will not harm the hull. Using some 3M 5200 makes them water tight while also reducing some of the metal-to-metal contact. There are lots of places to get supplies. If you need to do a large job, it is well worth the effort to order in bulk as SS gets pricey quickly. There are lots of great sites online and Fastenal, West Marine have a large selection too.

 

[GA_Boater]

Re: Stainless steel hardware in an aluminum boat?

Re: Stainless steel hardware in an aluminum boat?

+1 on good stainless. In a perfect world aluminum would be the choice but not readily available and maybe not strong enough. So SS is the least galvanic metal. And any corrosion is virtually non-existent.

 

[North Beach]

Re: 1970 Starcraft Jupiter project

Dave during my restore I was not beneath calling people and telling them exactly how for instance rivet challenged i was haha... so I called the number at rivetsonline.com and explained to the guy what I was tryin to do and he sold me what I needed.

If you go back with 1/2" ply on the deck then you need 3/16" rivets in the 1/2" to 5/8" grip range and ROL.com sells them. If you go 3/4" ply (which again I don't think you need in a boat this size) then you would need 3/4" to 7/8" grip range and so on and so forth.

And not tryin to jab at B2 but if you go 3/4 I'm pretty sure the 1" grip range is gonna leave the rivets too loose. Your grip range needs to be within your material thickness....

 

[barato2]

Re: 1970 Starcraft Jupiter project

i wasn't being clear. i meant grip range up to 1". i just checked McM-Carr and they have grip range from .876 (roughly 7/8) to 1" (item # 97447A097). since the metal will be about 1/16" thick, you may be right that i have em 1/16" too long, depending on how much thickness the epoxy adds to my floors. maybe i should have ordered the shorter ones. i always thought the grip range needed to be AT LEAST the material thickness on the lower end. am i wrong?

 

[Dave in VT]

Re: Stainless steel hardware in an aluminum boat?

Re: Stainless steel hardware in an aluminum boat?

Thanks for the quick reply and helpful answers.
Strangest of all the hardware so far are the large outboard engine mounting bolts -- they are stainless bolts with aluminum nuts and washers!

 

[North Beach]

Re: 1970 Starcraft Jupiter project

i wasn't being clear. i meant grip range up to 1". i just checked McM-Carr and they have grip range from .876 (roughly 7/8) to 1" (item # 97447A097). since the metal will be about 1/16" thick, you may be right that i have em 1/16" too long, depending on how much thickness the epoxy adds to my floors. maybe i should have ordered the shorter ones. i always thought the grip range needed to be AT LEAST the material thickness on the lower end. am i wrong?

As long as your material thickness falls within the grip range. My plywood was 1/2" plus the metal I was attaching to so 1/2 to 5/8 grip range pulled it down just right. And i just misunderstood what you meant when you said 1" grip.

 

[Chris1956]

Re: Stainless steel hardware in an aluminum boat?

Re: Stainless steel hardware in an aluminum boat?

Dave, if you plan to use that boat in freshwater, I do not think there is any issue with any kind of fastener. Salt water would be a different issue, as stainless will cause aluminum to corrode. Chrome plated brass is a good solution for cleats in salt water, but I don't know if it is less corrosive than stainless or not.

 

[jigngrub]

Re: Stainless steel hardware in an aluminum boat?

Re: Stainless steel hardware in an aluminum boat?

Thanks for the quick reply and helpful answers.
Strangest of all the hardware so far are the large outboard engine mounting bolts -- they are stainless bolts with aluminum nuts and washers!

I'd toss those aluminum nuts and washers and go with SS washers and SS nyloc nuts.