1969 Sea Ray SRX Pachanga Build Thread

[Propellerhead]

looking good. however are you going to paint it prior to final assembly?

Thank you! And definitely. I'm mocking things up right now. I'll take everything off to paint it.

 

[Propellerhead]

Looks like we sort of in the same neck of the woods. I'm putting my 6 in tonight. Sorry to hear about the filler, that is really weird. I have seen it shrink ever so slightly from heat, but that isn't noticeable unless you have it painted.....and is a very very small amount. The only time I have seen it crack is when it is flexed a lot! Maybe too much harder or just bad filler? Where did you get the tie downs by the way?

Cool! I have no idea what happened to the filler. The tie downs were the ones that came with the boat, so unfortunately I have no idea where to get more.

 

[Propellerhead]

I was able to get a few more hours in this week. The engine test fit was exciting, but now I have a bunch of little details to finish up. My plan next is to finish the last of the wood and fiberglass fabrication. There really isn't a whole lot left.

First, since the transom wasn't quite thick enough, I made this extra layer of 1/4 ply to put in just where the gimbal bolts through. I beveled the edges for easy fiberglassing without much filler.

I also sanded and painted the interior panels, so those are done and ready to be upholstered.

I also made a trip to a hardwood retailer and picked up some 10-quarter oak for the engine pads. I cut them to the right size for the engine compartment. They still need a sanding in preparation for fiberglassing, and I forgot to get a picture of them in place, but I'll do that next time I'm down there so you can see what I'm talking about.

 

[Propellerhead]

I got out the old lower interior trim panels. Oh man, that purple Naugahyde.

I pulled off the old upholstery so I could use the panels as patterns to cut new, less rotten ones.

The old ones were a little taller than I wanted, so I traced a line to note how much shorter they should be, and then clamped them to the new piece of 1/4 inch ply.

 

[Propellerhead]

I used the old pieces to drill the new mounting holes and to trace the outline for cutting.

The new panels are cut and test fit. They look good! They're ready for fiberglass and upholstery. That's it for now. I'll be back soon with more details.

 

[nicks66]

Boats looking good. I'm getting ready to start my project i'm a little south of salt lake how did you go about getting your resin from 3d art? Just call or walk in? Aso did you get your glass local? I've been researching and looking around it seems kinda hard to get with out a huge shiping fee.

 

[Propellerhead]

Boats looking good. I'm getting ready to start my project i'm a little south of salt lake how did you go about getting your resin from 3d art? Just call or walk in? Aso did you get your glass local? I've been researching and looking around it seems kinda hard to get with out a huge shiping fee.

Yeah, they've had everything I've needed so far. They like you to call ahead so they can fill your order, them just stop by and pick it up. Super friendly folks.

 

[Woodonglass]

I understand your thinking on the oak for the MM's but..in actuality laminated plywood is a better choice. Hopefully that is White Oak and not Red oak. White Oak has Tanin in it and is much more water resistant than red oak

 

[nicks66]

Thanks propellerhead i called and have a order being prepared for monday.

 

[Corjen1]

Question PropHead, Why are you glassing the side panels? How are you going to stretch and attach the vinyl? It will pretty difficult to drive the staples through the glass.

I had used automotive "vinyl roof" adhesive (DAP Weldwod "landau top" Contact adhesive) on my last customer project because the seat structure was entirely fiberglass...worked very good, but was a serious PITA!!

 

[Propellerhead]

I understand your thinking on the oak for the MM's but..in actuality laminated plywood is a better choice. Hopefully that is White Oak and not Red oak. White Oak has Tanin in it and is much more water resistant than red oak

It is, thank you. I went with oak because of its water resistance. Thanks for looking out.

 

[Propellerhead]

Question PropHead, Why are you glassing the side panels? How are you going to stretch and attach the vinyl? It will pretty difficult to drive the staples through the glass.

I had used automotive "vinyl roof" adhesive (DAP Weldwod "landau top" Contact adhesive) on my last customer project because the seat structure was entirely fiberglass...worked very good, but was a serious PITA!!

I'm fiberglassing them to waterproof them. The previous ones rotted at the bottom where they were occasionally getting wet. Honestly, my plan was to upholster them with a combination of spray adhesive and stainless staples around the edge. You make a good point. Maybe I'll just resin the back so that I'm not trying to drive staples through a layer of mat. Somethings better than nothing, right?

 

[Corjen1]

Prop, I agree something is better thing nothing. I if may, the trouble with just resin, is that is very brittle with out the csm. heat and cooling contraction alone will crack it. I would suggest Wood on glasss's "old timer formula" it works very good for water proofing.

See post #2 in this thread for the formula. http://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat-...-interior-wood

Here's another thread discussing the use of the formula: http://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat-...timers-formula

 

[Propellerhead]

Prop, I agree something is better thing nothing. I if may, the trouble with just resin, is that is very brittle with out the csm. heat and cooling contraction alone will crack it. I would suggest Wood on glasss's "old timer formula" it works very good for water proofing.

See post #2 in this thread for the formula. http://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat-...-interior-wood

Here's another thread discussing the use of the formula: http://forums.iboats.com/forum/boat-...timers-formula

Awesome! I'll look into that. I did notice that Woodonglass said that epoxy is the best (even though it's the most expensive). So I might still lean that way... Maybe I'll try a test piece to see if it's easy to upholster or not.