1968 Starcraft Jupiter - Rebuild

[ezmobee]

Re: 1968 Starcraft Jupiter - Rebuild

Gluvit (and presumably Coat-It) have etching additives to specifically aid in adhesion to aluminum.

 

[InMotion]

Re: 1968 Starcraft Jupiter - Rebuild

Would it be recommended to gluvit the patch on the bottom of the hull that I am putting on as well as the corroded areas on the hull around the rivets? Can I prime/paint over gluvit?

 

[InMotion]

Re: 1968 Starcraft Jupiter - Rebuild

I just ordered a quart of gluvit from pride marine on line. Will ship in 6-8 days.

 

[InMotion]

Re: 1968 Starcraft Jupiter - Rebuild

I have been able to get half the boat hull sanded. There is a lot ofpitting and corrosion. I would estimate that 60-70% of the rivets have some to significant corrosion surrounding them. No additional holes...but not what you would call prestine hull!

On another note... I got to thinking about the trailer this boat will be sitting on... the current setup is for a fiberglass boat. No keel rollers, just articulating rollers --- a number of them on eatither side of the trailer. Will this setup work or should the trailer be converted to have keel rollers with carpeted bunks?

 

[jasoutside]

Re: 1968 Starcraft Jupiter - Rebuild

Rollers to bunks? Sure...

Before...

After...

 

[ezmobee]

Re: 1968 Starcraft Jupiter - Rebuild

Mine's kinda hybrid approach http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w200/ezmobee/New Boat/DSCF2352.jpg

 

[InMotion]

Re: 1968 Starcraft Jupiter - Rebuild

Ya, that's more in line what I was envisioning. Is it fair to say that having rollers where the bunks are is NOT a good idea?

 

[InMotion]

Re: 1968 Starcraft Jupiter - Rebuild

I spent some time this weekend sanding the hull. Couple of interesting things cropped up. First, I started sanding the hull using a combination of wire wheel on the drill, an orbital sander and hand sanding. Then I moved to using a sanding pad and wire wheel. The best by a landslide, was a cone wire wheel on a grinder. The stripped the paint in about a 1/4 of the time with very little effort. Yes, I could have used aircraft stripper, but I chose to go this way. I also did a quick sand using 180 grit paper. When I am all done to 180, I will also sand using a 320 paper in prep for painting in the spring.

Next up is putting the aluminum patch on the hull at the transom and then patching all the pitted rivets and hull spots.

4 sheets of marine ply arrives next week some time... I should be just about ready to flip the boat and start working on the transom and floor!!!

 

[ozenine]

Re: 1968 Starcraft Jupiter - Rebuild

Hey neighbour! Sorry for checking in so late for the party
This time of the year is crazy at work.
Which part of NM are you in?

 

[InMotion]

Re: 1968 Starcraft Jupiter - Rebuild

Hey ozenine... glad to see there is a fellow Newmarketonion and it's great that you are checkin' in! I am in the old part of Newmarket! Where are you located?

I also got this back from West Marine Canada:

Unfortunately we cannot get this product as it is illegal to be sold in the Canadian stores. It could be due to improper labelling as per Canadian Health and Safety. You would be able to purchase it from a US store, but we cannot get it over the border here. If there is anything else we can assist you with, please feel free to give us a call here at the store.

Got a hull shot from the weekend sanding/grinding/wire brushing... it is coming along.


I should also have the new splashwell and transom skin next Monday. I am really looking forward to seeing how they will look on the boat! It is a busy time of year as it is for most, so not much new, but thought I would keepy everyone updated on the project.

Next Steps:

- Finish wire brushing and sanding to 220 grit the hull and top sides (sides) of the boat
- wash the boat to clear off any dust
- 5200 all of the corroded/pitted spots on the hull of the boat to as an added measure
- patch transom hull area

Then flip back the boat to an upright position and switch to the rebuild part of the project!

Enjoy the evening!

 

[Bwana Don]

Re: 1968 Starcraft Jupiter - Rebuild

Ya, that's more in line what I was envisioning. Is it fair to say that having rollers where the bunks are is NOT a good idea?

Rollers go on the keel. This is the strongest part of the boat. I'd be afraid the would cause damage if put on the unreinforced areas. This is were the bunks go. Overall it gives the best support.

 

[GA_Boater]

Re: 1968 Starcraft Jupiter - Rebuild

I also got this back from West Marine Canada:

Unfortunately we cannot get this product as it is illegal to be sold in the Canadian stores. It could be due to improper labelling as per Canadian Health and Safety. You would be able to purchase it from a US store, but we cannot get it over the border here. If there is anything else we can assist you with, please feel free to give us a call here at the store.

IM, is this for the Gluvit or something else?

 

[InMotion]

Re: 1968 Starcraft Jupiter - Rebuild

GA - Yes it is for GluVit. I ended up purchasing it at Pride Marine.

 

[InMotion]

Re: 1968 Starcraft Jupiter - Rebuild

Bwana Don - Thanks for the reply. I kinda figured this was the best scenario --- especially after looking at Ez's and Jas's pictures. I actually have 2 trailers --- the one the Starcraft will end up on currently has rollers for the hull instead of bunks and does not have keel rollers. The setup that the trailer that came with the boat has broken keel rollers and two 1.5 foot 4x4's that were holding the boat. Really not a great setup for any boat. I guess given the price of the boat and trailer --- free!! --- I shouldn't have expected much!

 

[InMotion]

Re: 1968 Starcraft Jupiter - Rebuild

A quick update in a little more detail of Friday to last night. Some of it is a bit of a repeat of a previous thread I posted... but it goes into more detail. Thought I would share... have a great day to all!!

Sanding is not high on my list of things I like to do. I don't despise it --- I just find it somewhat unpleasant. Think enema and you will get the idea.

Nonetheless, an old friend came over Friday night to help with the challenge of sanding the old paint off the boat and grind out the corroded parts of the hull. After 3 1/2 hours we had managed to sand one side of the hull -- more or less to a primer ready state. We both looked like we had been in a desert sand storm. I wisely, had worn a full face mask breathing apparatus. Tom went alfresco --- not even a mask. His theory --- he would go out for a smoke when it got too dusty and the preceding coughing fit would dislodge the dust from his lungs. strangely, this seamed plausible. If it worked for him, it worked for me. He didn't die... so a win win for both of us. I really appreciated his help, as it is a big, nasty job to sand off the paint and grind out the 1 billion corroded and pitted area's of the hull. We used a combination of orbital oscillating sander, wire wheel and cone on a drill and hand sanding.

On Saturday, I spent only and hour and vacuumed the garage. On Sunday and Monday evenings I learned something invaluable. If you use a cone wire wheel on a 11,000 rpm grinder, you can cut your time from 7 people hours (politically correct term) to 45 min to sand/grind one side of the hull of a boat. On top of that, the job done is brilliant. It required only a quick hand sand using 120 and 180 grit paper to bring it to a state that can be readied for primer in the spring with a quick sand using 220 and 320 paper.

Tonight and tomorrow all being well, I hope to complete the sanding of the hull and sides of the boat and flip it back over to begin the transom next week.

 

[GA_Boater]

Re: 1968 Starcraft Jupiter - Rebuild

GA - Yes it is for GluVit. I ended up purchasing it at Pride Marine.

Sorry, IM. I was confused since you said you ordered it from Pride. I wonder how Pride can sell it and West Marine Canada can't. It's no problem as long as you can get it.

On the trailers I prefer bunks for a tin boat. The weight is spread out better with bunks and offer more support. Rollers concentrate the forces on the hull at the small contract area. So I'm with Bwana Don, keel rollers and bunks for the hull. Hey, with one free trailer you can mix & match to get the best set-up.

 

[InMotion]

Re: Starcraft Jupiter Restoration - Saved from the scrap yard...

Re: Starcraft Jupiter Restoration - Saved from the scrap yard...

Hey GA --- no problem. From what I understand now, Pride pays to have the labelling changed to meet Canadian reg's. It costs a bit more to get it from Pride... but you can get it!

Trailers - agreed! It is really nice to have two... makes it easier. I am planning on fixing up the trailer the Starcreaft came with and sell it in the spring with the small fiberglass boat I also have. I have to make room for another Starcraft I have coming... I find out next week whether I will buy it or not. This tinny thing becomes addictive! All good though.

 

[ozenine]

Re: 1968 Starcraft Jupiter - Rebuild

Hey, glad to see the rebuild going so well. I had same problems with some other chemicals that US friends suggest (i had iproblem finding Sea Foam). It just takes significantly more time to find and costs more
I am besides costco, near Green Lane.

 

[InMotion]

Re: 1968 Starcraft Jupiter - Rebuild

Hey Oz --- I'm glad to see I am not the only Canuk with the same challange of finding materials!! Anytime you want to come and check out the progress, drop me an e-mail!

I have now finished sanding one side to within about 2 feet of the bow... so just one more side and the lower bow area and I can vacuume and wash the garage out!! The paint on the boat is a combo of the original primer and finish coat + at least 2 to 3 coats of what appears to be bondo and house paint. There isn't a thing wrong with the aluminum --- so I can't figure out why anyone would bondo... but the stuff is hard as nails and difficult to sand/grind. I would leave it, but the paint has "antiqued" if you will... so anything going on top is going to look cruddy and eventually flake off.

Soon, I will be able to flip it back over and start on the inside. Really is a shame I can't paint the hull while it is flipped over... anyone know if you can apply primer and paint when the hull temp is 40-45 degrees F? I don't know how long paint takes to cure properly and at what temp... but it just seams pretty cold for a proper cure/adhesion.

The reason for the question is that I will be able to only partially work on the interior --- otherwise, I don't know if the boat will get too heavy to flip in the spring when it is warmer. Right now the boat is pretty light with nothing in it and no transom board either. Anyone flipped a completed (no windshield of course) Jupiter?

Any thoughts would be appreciated guys.

 

[barato2]

Re: 1968 Starcraft Jupiter - Rebuild

your concerns on temp are well taken; most paints are designed to work within a specific temp window and if you're using catalyzed paint, you may need different hardeners and reducers for different temps.

but when it's inverted, i suspect you could keep the hull temp up by making a "skirt" out of masking paper to trap air underneath and sticking a couple of 500watt halogen lamps underneath hull (well away from the paper!) keep your paint and gun indoors so they stay warm and mix it up before you head out to spray instead of doing any mixing in the cold garage. as long as paint/hardener/reducer temp and surface temp are OK, you can work around air temp issues. remember if you do add heat to garage, that volatile solvent vapors and open flame heaters are a very bad mix...........

friend and i had no trouble with flipping similar size Lone Star tinnie, with transom and 1/4 plate reinf in place