1968 StarCraft Holiday restoration

jdvasher

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Transom finally permanently installed. Looks like it passed inspection by my youngest. I am happy to mention that currently, the boat is his favorite place to hang out.
 

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jdvasher

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After some debate, I have decided to install foam under the floor. I was not crazy about the use of expanding foam however and have decided instead to go with pre-made foam sheet. I want to be able to remove in case I need access to the hull for rivet repair. I have also heard and experienced with other boats that even though the expanding foam is closed cell, If you trap water, it will eventually work its way into the foam. I plan to use 2" thick foam sheet and individually cut vertical sections with a small gap between them to stop any capillary action. This plan led me to a little side project of building a foam cutter. Honestly, I have always kind of wanted to build one anyways and this was a good excuse. I think my oldest will get more use out of it than me so thats a plus as well.
 

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jdvasher

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Here are some progress pics of the original wood pieces being sanded, sealed and varnished. Hopefully they will last another 50 years. There are 2 pieces that I will be replacing with new wood, not sure the name if there is one but the cross member piece closest to the dash and the cross member piece the bridges of the motor. That brings up a question that I am hoping someone can help with. does anyone have dimensions for the cutout needed with the newer 3.0 motor exhaust? the motor wont be ready to install for a couple months, I guess I can wait if I need to but figured there is a chance someone will have this info. Also, does anyone know what species of wood was used? I was thinking it looked like mahogany but that probably was not a feasible option. A good friend who is a woodworker recommended american white oak as it holds up well in wet conditions. I will probably go that route if I don't get any other advice soon.
 

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jdvasher

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I was turned on to this total boat line of epoxy resins from Boatworks today show on youtube. I will say, I have vary little experience with fiberglass and what I do remember was how terribly awful it smelled. So bad to work with that I had totally steered away from ever doing a glass boat restore. This new stuff is great, no order at all, the pumps are calibrated for the correct mix ratio so you get a better product with very little if any waste. I like this stuff so much I might even take up a glasser restore next just for fun. The parts in the pic are of me laminating the new motor supports. The old ones were still solid as a rock but I was not a fan of an oil soaked mess in my nice shiny new resto.
 

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jdvasher

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I sat the gunwales back in place after a good scrubbing to check for fit and sure enough, It looks like Ill have to trim an 1/8" off the back of them. I guess the glass sandwiched between the plywood added up. Ill also have to make minor adjustments to the brackets as well. Anyway, them sitting in place actually makes it look like a boat again and that makes me happy.
 

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jdvasher

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Jul 10, 2019
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370
My goal is to have her ready for the lake by July 4. Even though I really like the cold weather and snow, I cannot deny, I have been really grateful for the mild winter we have had thus far.
 

Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
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The supports for the transom cap and bow deck were mahogany. Any tight grain rot resistant wood will work and it also needs to be well sealed.

You're really doing some fine work on your holly and the way things are going here in the forum with lack of participation, I think it's great you're keeping your thread going strong.

Good on you for bringing the next generation of Starmada members into the project.

fetch
 

jdvasher

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Jul 10, 2019
Messages
370
The supports for the transom cap and bow deck were mahogany. Any tight grain rot resistant wood will work and it also needs to be well sealed.

You're really doing some fine work on your holly and the way things are going here in the forum with lack of participation, I think it's great you're keeping your thread going strong.

Good on you for bringing the next generation of Starmada members into the project.

[IMG2=JSON]{"data-align":"none","data-size":"full","height":"1200","width":"1600","src":"https:\/\/forums.iboats.com\/filedata\/fetch?photoid=10825168"**[/IMG2]

Thanks for the info on the wood, I could not seem to find that anywhere. I have been kinda surprised by the low amount of traffic as well, figured it was just the time of the year. In any case, I really just wanted a personal log of the build. It will be nice to look back on the process in the future.
 

buxmj

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Jun 9, 2018
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Great work! Even though my project is fiberglass I wanted to commend you on your detailed work and progress. Also for me and hopefully others, seeing progress is inspiring, no matter how different your project may be, thanks for the inspiration!

Buck.
 

jdvasher

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Jul 10, 2019
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Great work! Even though my project is fiberglass I wanted to commend you on your detailed work and progress. Also for me and hopefully others, seeing progress is inspiring, no matter how different your project may be, thanks for the inspiration!

Buck.

Thank you, I know I was inspired by other builds before mine. kind feels like paying my dues back into the community.
 

jdvasher

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A coworker turned me on to a local mill, guy had an incredible selection of high quality wood. He planed everything down to my specs on the spot and was very reasonable on price. I picked out a piece of Cherry and Curly Maple, I plan to use one for the dash. Currently I am leaning towards the maple but I think I will see how they both look with some stain. I was like a kid in the candy store walking around his shop that's for sure. I picked up a couple pieces of white oak as well to replace the rotted Mahogany. It was proving to be very difficult to source locally and very expensive too.
 

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jdvasher

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After the main supports for the transom and front deck were cut, drilled, and countersunk to fit, they were then sealed. Once the front support was in place, I was able to install the gunwales. The transom deck support was just temporarily set in place to ensure proper alignment of everything. I will wait to finish installation until the motor is in place. I will need to mark and cutout the location for the new exhaust riser because it is different than the 2.5L, I wont know where to cut until the motor is installed unfortunately. The deck support support stringers were installed with new stainless steel hardware. I absolutely hate slotted head screws.... Everything now is either button or flat head socket screws.
 

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Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
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It's best to do the motor install before you put the transom cover supports and cover on otherwise you have to work around and under it.
 

jdvasher

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It's best to do the motor install before you put the transom cover supports and cover on otherwise you have to work around and under it.

That was the plan, just test fitting the new piece. I will have to have the motor in place to cut out for the different style exhaust riser.
 

jdvasher

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Over the weekend I was finally able to finish up some of the last rivets in the front of the boat. My Wife and oldest boy took turns bucking rivets. Today we had some crazy warm weather, 72 degrees crazy, so it was the perfect opportunity to add some water and check for leaks. I did a ton of work on the front keel and I have been kinda nervous about it. I pulled the boat out, jacked up the back as to keep the transom dry, and added blocking for support with all of the added weight. At first I was really happy, looking closely over all of the rivets I replaced, not a single leak or damp spot and this was after and hour or so of sitting. But then when climbed underneath I could see water weeping from about 90% of the existing rivets where I marked seeing leaks before the Gluvit treatment. This really bummed me out because I had heard a ton of great things about the stuff but it just didn't take. I spent a lot of time prepping to make sure everything was clean and dry too. would have been much better to just replace the rivets in the first place. I guess I'll get to work on that next week, in all there are only about 20 rivets leaking so it shouldn't take too long to replace. Plus my helpers are starting to get pretty good at the whole riveting thing lol.
 

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Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
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Do the side seams and keel leak? That's where the gluvit works best, not so much for rivets in the field and especially not leaking rivets that secure ribs as the epoxy can't get between the surfaces.
 

jdvasher

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Do the side seams and keel leak? That's where the gluvit works best, not so much for rivets in the field and especially not leaking rivets that secure ribs as the epoxy can't get between the surfaces.

There are no leaks on any of the seams. The rivets are leaking are the ones holding the ribs, oddly enough, only on the port side of the boat. there are no leaking rivets on the starboard side.
 

jdvasher

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Jul 10, 2019
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Well, I ended up changing my mind on the foam plan. I modeled the boat in Autocad so I could get a more accurate volume of foam needed and it came out to 19.6 cf (minus some for the ribs). Doing some research, I found the the expanding foam works well and bonds great to the sheet foam at home depot. The 2 part foam that I ordered will do 8 cf per gallon and one 2" thick sheet of foam is 5 cf. I ordered two 1 Gallon kits and will use the foam sheet to define the areas to be filled with foam, blocking off the engine compartment, ski storage, and I also want to leave a small channel down the center for water drainage. The foam sheet will also save a Benjamin that I can put towards the Coosa Flooring.
 

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Watermann

Starmada Splash of the Year 2014
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Interesting plan if I got it right, you're using rigid foam board on the bottom before pour in foam over the top of it?
 
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