1968 Slickcraft 19 foot Just Purchased!

[Dennis Nelson]

I just purchased a 19 foot 1968 Slickcraft with a Chevy V8 from out in Belfair Washington.
Now I only gave $700 for the boat knowing that it is going to take a bit to get it running. It has been sitting for over 8 years. Being a former automotive mechanic I am not afraid of a little work.
My one and only concern is that the electric tilt will only click at the solenoid at this point and time. Being Ias I just got it home last night at7pm and it is now 7am on Sunday morning, I have yet to have time to go out and start tapping around with a hammer on and of the moving parts or drive motor.
I have no idea what model this is, so if any one has any suggestions on what sights to look on or is knowledgeable about Slickcrafts, it would be gratefully helpful to me. Thank you

 

[dwco5051]

That is an OMC outdrive probably powered by a 153 ci GM 4 cylinder the same as used in the old Chevy II's. Before you sink another dollar in it get the manual for that drive system and do some basic trouble shooting as you will find many parts are NLA. I know someone will correct me if I am mistaken but that is the electric shift outdrive and takes a special gear oil also. Google OMC stringer I/O and you will get a feel of what you may be in for.

 

[Dennis Nelson]

That is an OMC outdrive probably powered by a 153 ci GM 4 cylinder the same as used in the old Chevy II's. Before you sink another dollar in it get the manual for that drive system and do some basic trouble shooting as you will find many parts are NLA. I know someone will correct me if I am mistaken but that is the electric shift outdrive and takes a special gear oil also. Google OMC stringer I/O and you will get a feel of what you may be in for.

My power plant is a Chevy V8

 

[matt167]

It's an OMC stringer with a rotted transom. Tapping a hammer will probably confirm because it's visibly deteriorated

 

[Dennis Nelson]

It's an OMC stringer with a rotted transom. Tapping a hammer will probably confirm because it's visibly deteriorated

Transom is perfectly sound and not rotted

 

[matt167]

Transom is perfectly sound and not rotted

No it's not. You can see it's rotted. The staining on the drain plug gives it away

 

[briangcc]

Looks nice....however looks can be deceiving. I count the following penetrations to your transom....

Outdrive
Steering cable for outdrive
Exhaust (2x)
Kicker bracket
Trim Tabs (2x)
Drain holes (2x - one may be a livewell intake as its smaller in diameter and a bit up from the main drain...and its got discoloration there).
Sacrificial anode bolted just under the outdrive
Vent up top
Speedo paddle wheel OR fish finder transducer
Transom eye bolts

Point being that's ALOT of potential for water penetration on an antique boat you got for a song.

It would be wise to drill some test holes in the transom from the inside and look at the shavings. They come back as dry wood, you're probably golden and can be sealed up with some 5200 so you can work on other projects.


**Upon another look, there's a bunch of holes that look improperly sealed above that starboard trim tab. It may just be the photo/camera but that appears to be letting water IN the transom. I'd definitely look closer and stop tapping with a hammer as that isn't going to show anything.

 

[southkogs]

Welcome aboard: with the electric tilt, you're most likely up against the tilt motor. It's on the port side, WAY back against the intermediate gear housing ... probably in a space not quite large enough for a 8 year old to squeeze into

If it's the original '68 setup, you've got either a Chevy 283 V8 (185 HP) or a 300 Buick (200HP). You want to look for a tag on the inside of the engine, it should read something like "TU-16C." That will be your model number.

Gut check: The OMC Stringer doesn't use a transom the same way as a Mercruiser (a few boats that had Stringers didn't even reinforce their transoms), but rot in the hull particularly in the wood stringers is common in old boats. Do a couple of core samples from inside the boat while you've got things torn apart and make sure you've got good bones. // ALSO - You've got an electric shift Stringer drive. It's old, parts are harder to find, and many marine service guys won't even look at 'em. They've been outta' business for a long time, and people don't really like them. The drives can be finicky and will need more attention than a more modern boat. PLUS, you will never recover all of what you put into it selling it - the value never comes back.

That said: if you like it, have the time and money to take it on as a project and don't mind the extra maintenance, I actually kinda' like the old electric shifts. When they're working right, they're a nice drive in some situations - and they're quiet! Just go into it eyes wide open.

 

[Dennis Nelson]

Welcome aboard: with the electric tilt, you're most likely up against the tilt motor. It's on the port side, WAY back against the intermediate gear housing ... probably in a space not quite large enough for a 8 year old to squeeze into

If it's the original '68 setup, you've got either a Chevy 283 V8 (185 HP) or a 300 Buick (200HP). You want to look for a tag on the inside of the engine, it should read something like "TU-16C." That will be your model number.

Gut check: The OMC Stringer doesn't use a transom the same way as a Mercruiser (a few boats that had Stringers didn't even reinforce their transoms), but rot in the hull particularly in the wood stringers is common in old boats. Do a couple of core samples from inside the boat while you've got things torn apart and make sure you've got good bones. // ALSO - You've got an electric shift Stringer drive. It's old, parts are harder to find, and many marine service guys won't even look at 'em. They've been outta' business for a long time, and people don't really like them. The drives can be finicky and will need more attention than a more modern boat. PLUS, you will never recover all of what you put into it selling it - the value never comes back.

That said: if you like it, have the time and money to take it on as a project and don't mind the extra maintenance, I actually kinda' like the old electric shifts. When they're working right, they're a nice drive in some situations - and they're quiet! Just go into it eyes wide open.

 

[Dennis Nelson]

OK, I am at this point trying to get the tilt motor removed. I thank you for all the concern on the transom, how ever at this point I am not interested in that information.
The tilt motor only has 2 exposed bolts from the inside of the motor compartment. These appear to be casing holding bolts. I have unbolted these and have gotten he outer housing to slightly move left and right but I am unable to extract the unit. I will be removing the tilt clutch assembly today and I have already the gear plate from the out drive
So again how do I remove the title motor from this 1968 Slickcraft

 

[southkogs]

Make sure you support the outdrive. In my opinion, you're actually better removing it (doesn't take long).

Removing those two bolts through the housing, and relieving the pressure off the worm gear should make it so that assembly (motor) comes out relatively easily. In reality those bolts are also holding the motor assembly together, so it's gonna' practically fall apart on you. Be careful: particularly with the hammer coupling that's inside the motor on the gear shaft ... that dude likes to jump out and hide in your bilge. They can be tough to replace.

 

[Dennis Nelson]

Update to all of the post. I was able to remove the tilt motor, I disassembled it and found a wire broke away from the solder point. So I soldered it back together and reinstalled. The tilt now works perfect. I was able to identify the motor as a 1968 chevy 309. I had to replace the water pump. And, I was able to fire the boat up. She was running very smooth for about half a hour and then the distributor craped out. I pulled it and shipped it down to pro 1 ignition for a rebuild. All of the cables are in perfect condition.

 

[roffey]

It always amazes me how people can tell the boat has rot from a picture. Its been my experience you need to be able to see, touch and smell... I think the boat looks like it will be a fun project for $700. Once you get it running as it should I bet it will be a real runner and sound great with the through hull exhaust keep us posted.

 

[Dennis Nelson]

So After almost a year of the distributor being out for repairs, I found 2 Mallory YL 520 AL distributors on Ebay and purchased both of them. I installed one of them and got the boat fired back up, only to have a Freeze plug pop out over the winter months. That was no big issue. How ever the plug was located behind the motor mount. I ended up taking a 2x4 and trimmed it down to 15 inchs, I slid it under the manifold and tapped in it secure to hold the motor while removing the motor mount bracket and installed the rubber adjustable freeze plug yesterday

 

[Scott Danforth]

core plugs dont just come out. usually the block cracks along the way.

the term freeze plug is erroneous. they are for sealing the core holes to get core sand out of the block casting.

 

[nola mike]

So After almost a year of the distributor being out for repairs, I found 2 Mallory YL 520 AL distributors on Ebay and purchased both of them. I installed one of them and got the boat fired back up, only to have a Freeze plug pop out over the winter months. That was no big issue. How ever the plug was located behind the motor mount. I ended up taking a 2x4 and trimmed it down to 15 inchs, I slid it under the manifold and tapped in it secure to hold the motor while removing the motor mount bracket and installed the rubber adjustable freeze plug yesterday

Did you winterize/drain the block over the winter? Might very well be a big issue.

 

[briangcc]

You're located in Washington correct? **Going off the plate and reg on the side of the boat.

Froze over winter right? Did you winterize before it got below freezing??

 

[southkogs]

I ended up taking a 2x4 and trimmed it down to 15 inchs, I slid it under the manifold and tapped in it secure to hold the motor while removing the motor mount bracket ...

Scissor jack underneath the engine is another way to do that. if you ever have to replace the belt, generally you'll need to remove the engine mount again.

 

[Dennis Nelson]

You're located in Washington correct? **Going off the plate and reg on the side of the boat.

Froze over winter right? Did you winterize before it got below freezing??

Yes I did, I have her back up and running now.

 

[Dennis Nelson]

Hi to Every One. Well it is October 2nd 2022, I just got back from a 2 week trip to Kehei Maui. So lets get back up to speed on my little vintage Slickcraft.
She is a 195ss, And after I ran the numbers on the block, the motor came back a 1969 Chevy/OMC 307.
I had her running for about 30 minutes after sitting for so many years. And then the distributor failed. I tracked down 2 of them on Ebay and installed the better of the 2 and she is back up and running. I replaced the junk water pump and the old fuel pump and old water fuel separator.
Rebuilt the tilt motor.
installed a new timing marker plate.

The big issue that I overcame was that the 25 gallon fuel tank had about 40 pin holes in the bottom of the tank.

I pulled the tank, wire wheeled it down to metal, applied 3 skim coats of bondo, and then used 1 quart and then 1 gallon of Red Kote tank sealer.

Reinstalled the tank and put her out on the Puget sound for about 20 minutes. My second trip was to Lake Washington, a little bit smoother water conditions. After Lake Washington, I found that I needed to adjust the dist between 8 and 12 degrees before top dead center.
The lighting and the seats are up next for replacement or repaired.
Fires right up, flys through the water, no leaks. Very solid.

There is a part of me that is saying that if the price is right, I will let her go!