1966 MFG Rebuild

[todhunter]

Looks like thickened resin to me, or some other kind of adhesive. When demo'ing my boat, I found several things were stuck to the inside of the hull with an adhesive that reminded me of body filler. It was just a temporary adhesive to hold things in position until the glass was laid. I ground it all away and used thickened resin to stick things in place when I rebuilt.

 

[demarko210]

Looks like thickened resin to me, or some other kind of adhesive. When demo'ing my boat, I found several things were stuck to the inside of the hull with an adhesive that reminded me of body filler. It was just a temporary adhesive to hold things in position until the glass was laid. I ground it all away and used thickened resin to stick things in place when I rebuilt.

whatever it was its setting in that ridgid vacuum cleaner now. Mines kinda had some stuff that was black or turned black later that was glued to the hull also.

 

[demarko210]

Went over yesterday and tested the heat lamps. Only tested 1 lamp in a small section while doing work on my other trailer. Surface temps were at 34 degrees and end up at the time I unplugged 72. Image was about 10 minutes after starting. I have a cooler with a heat pad to keep the resin warm.

I watched this video video fan of these guys channels. I dont think I want to hang around after laying the glass for 4 hours just watching it cure. Summer I usually glass and come back in 4 hours lol. I m thinking since the hull is not that thick, I can put the lamp on the outer side of the hull where I need to work. I will need to find something else to do while this cures. I will without a doubt need to wrap the shed up from the elements if I do this.

 

[todhunter]

Went over yesterday and tested the heat lamps. Only tested 1 lamp in a small section while doing work on my other trailer. Surface temps were at 34 degrees and end up at the time I unplugged 72. Image was about 10 minutes after starting. I have a cooler with a heat pad to keep the resin warm.

I watched this video video fan of these guys channels. I dont think I want to hang around after laying the glass for 4 hours just watching it cure. Summer I usually glass and come back in 4 hours lol. I m thinking since the hull is not that thick, I can put the lamp on the outer side of the hull where I need to work. I will need to find something else to do while this cures. I will without a doubt need to wrap the shed up from the elements if I do this.

Just be careful with the heat lamp when you're not around - make sure it can't fall over onto something flammable. I almost burned our house down when I was a kid when I turned on a heat lamp in the garage and it fell onto my dad's wooden workbench.

 

[kcassells]

Yea you can't walk away from the heatlamp.

 

[demarko210]

Just be careful with the heat lamp when you're not around - make sure it can't fall over onto something flammable. I almost burned our house down when I was a kid when I turned on a heat lamp in the garage and it fell onto my dad's wooden workbench.

Yeah it may fall if a nice wind come through. I am not using the halogen bulbs they are Incandescent but they still make some heat. I will find something to do in the mean time as I plan ahead.

 

[kcassells]

With epoxy I started with the heat lamp to cure and follow up the next day as I was doing something else. Epoxy eventually cures I'm not so sure about poly?

 

[demarko210]

With epoxy I started with the heat lamp to cure and follow up the next day as I was doing something else. Epoxy eventually cures I'm not so sure about poly?

I will see. I will try to fix that small hole I grind thru the hull. Small section just to try it out. Might have to get me one of those propane heaters.

 

[kcassells]

Yup use them too.

 

[demarko210]

This will be my plans on laying out under my deck.

Legend:
Black-stringers
White-bulkheads
Blue-bulkhead with gunnel ribs
Green-rod storage cut out
Yellow-flotation foam

I plan to encase the gunnels down to the deck and fill with foam with a cut out for rod/gaff storage on the sides.

The console will set in the section after the vacuum I will leave the section without foam for now. That will be for batteries and rigging.

The stringers along the sides I will box of the top with some wood and fill with foam. That will give the deck a good platform on the edge and the bulkheads will in the center.

I will try to build from the deck up to the gunnels being prepared to make all new gunnels if the originals do not work right. If that be case will have to figure something out for the splash well.

 

[kcassells]

This will be my plans on laying out under my deck.

Legend:
Black-stringers
White-bulkheads
Blue-bulkhead with gunnel ribs
Green-rod storage cut out
Yellow-flotation foam

I plan to encase the gunnels down to the deck and fill with foam with a cut out for rod/gaff storage on the sides.

The console will set in the section after the vacuum I will leave the section without foam for now. That will be for batteries and rigging.

The stringers along the sides I will box of the top with some wood and fill with foam. That will give the deck a good platform on the edge and the bulkheads will in the center.

I will try to build from the deck up to the gunnels being prepared to make all new gunnels if the originals do not work right. If that be case will have to figure something out for the splash well.

Mans on a mission!

 

[demarko210]

Created 8 ft center stringers. I need to extend 32 more inches to make as far front as I am going. Dry fitted this morning with 2 jigs to hold them in place.

 

[Ptr.Torch]

When you mention foam fill, are you thinking of a spay on like I see in hardware stores or perhaps the sheets of foam. I'm following this thread because I'm probably going to be doing something like this at a 1969 IMP Thunder I picked up.

 

[Scott Danforth]

Generally you use a 2-part 2# flotation foam

Not the can of expanding foam

 

[demarko210]

Spliced the other set of stringers together and created more jigs to hold into place. Looking at the outer stringers from the image it seems like a tight fit to lay fabric down. I forgot to get a visual check but I think it will be okay. Might have to use the pizza cutter type roller in that corner. Might have to use a spatula to get the thicken resin raised and smooth onto the stringer. I know it will be easy to get the resin under the stringer to cover the spread for both sides.
Re-measure how much more stringer I need to splice onto the 8ft sections. 35 more inches. Now if splice that onto the existing 8ft it wont be able to fit into my car. My truck it over were the boat is waiting to get the rear end rebuilt but still drivable. I might try to do the splice outside with the heat lamp and see how it turns out but not in 100% humidity.

 

[demarko210]

When you mention foam fill, are you thinking of a spay on like I see in hardware stores or perhaps the sheets of foam. I'm following this thread because I'm probably going to be doing something like this at a 1969 IMP Thunder I picked up.

Here is a video of someone using foam. I would not do it this way but its the foam you asked about.
My boat sides are thin. I will glass them with 1708 as I move up from the deck. I am mainly placing foam in the sides for vibration/sound and adding the ribs for reinforcement with structure. I would prefer to cap off the top like a Whaler of this type. I am not going to just pour. I am going to section off areas and fill with the foam.

 

[demarko210]

Went over to the boat yesterday to make some templates for bulkheads. Manage to template out 4. It was a nice day in Maryland should have done some glass work and more shaping on the stringers. I used glue gun and some Contractor shims from Home Depot to make my templates. This method works very good for template making. Its how I did the transom.

I realized I need to route the edges of the stringers before laying some CSM on them. I never used a router before so I will be trying to get it right today as my router bits showed up last night. I purchase the router in the summer but never used it. I have 23/32 AB plywood for the stringer I plan to make 1/4 round let me know if that is okay. I have 1/4 and 3/8 round bits. I want to get CSM on the stringers so I can leave them over at the boat in the elements. I would like to get the stringers and bulkheads screwed/nailed/jigged into place so all i would need to do is start bedding them in. Once they are bedded I will work on the bulkheads with the ribs.

My questions to the community.

1. I have 1/4 and 3/8 router bits. Should I use the 1/4 on 23/32 ply?
2. The bulkheads that were made any objections of encasing the template and pouring 6lb expansion foam to make the shape and be the core of the bulkhead?

 

[alldodge]

I would replace the lower 2x4 or at least flip it over. The weak spot is on the bottom

Instead of router bit I would just use block of wood and some 80 grit
Use 3/8 ply (23/32) for bulkheads
Can core the bulkheads with foam but make sure to brace them good, the foam has enough power to split them apart

 

[Ptr.Torch]

I'd suggest experimenting with a chamfer bit, and pulling as little material off as you can. If the idea is to remove sharp edges, the roundover fits the bill, but it may leave you with too little surface area between wood and fiberglass. A light touch with a chamfor bit would leave more actual wood against the fiberglass. That spells more weight displacement, and longer lasting to my way of thinking. Not that I have any specific experience to draw from. I'm just a jack-of-all-trades and sorting it out as I go.

 

[kcassells]

Never used a router to edge off the square edge but wished I had. I ended up using a sander to round off the edges. Takes awhile like that and inconsistent edging. Go for it.