@Lectro88 I'm definitely conserved about the hull distorting lucky as for right now I feel between the attache cap and cored bottom hull, everything is where it should be. I could be wrong in assuming this is enough but it does seem to be so. Now considering I'm going to remove the cap, what's your best advice for maintaining the proper shape?
-Jake
Its a little tough as I have no seen it first hand and my projects are a totally different style.
I'm no expert nor does i claimtobee lol.
But if it was me,
I guess I'd get the ole tape measure out and measure everything I thought mattered.
I have not picked up if you cradled hull or not.
I have set my hull on old tires and on the ground,. BUT....
I also have not removed any stringers other than just in front of transom.
My cap is removed,. AND the hull splayed or spread apart when I did that.
Looking back, Knowing how wide of a board to replace and pull things back together or tie down straps to draw it back in,. And all this hampers working on things as its an obstacle every few feet. to have to duck or climb over.
I had to cut the @$$ out of the cap at the transom to get it to release.
And I didn't bother to measure that or put the puzzle back together. (again hind sight) It will all get pulled back in when I seat the cap back on,. But I beefed up how stiff the hull is with that board I epoxied in place running up where the side hull and the bottom hull meet or turns up.(theres that hind sight again)
You may could set the hull on tires like I did, they give a little and also leave black marks, a moving blanket or plastic would stop that if it matters.
But I supported the back rear corners and the front center or keel, made a triangle. But Again my stringers are in place and in FAIR condition since they have dried out.
Pull a string across or fishing line. make a cross or grid and measure down to hull in center And plot 6" or a foot from transom. then 2' or whatever you think. Then measure down to the hull, I'd say not the stringer as you are changing that and It won't most likely match perfectly. But the hull should stay, or be "made" to stay in the same place. even if you had to get under it with a jack.
The string placed where you can easily duplicate, like at the cap seam. or
tied to the back of the bow u-bolt and to top of transom(again I've not been in your boat) But you need a reference or starting point you can go back to.
On mine, I am adding stringers before I take anything out. to hold things in place.
Now my hull I "think" is thicker than a lot, being an old 1969 off shore era or style.
Lake boats are more conservative or thinner in the glass department. not subject to as much abuse.
My point is I may can get by with more than some others, And again I can't speak for your boat. But I think it was an ocean runner.
I'm hopping that others will join in with their expertise to help on this,
I'm going to post a pic on your thread to show you the board that I mentioned that stiffened things up. so you can see what I mean.
Everything you add Changes Something.
AND I've Added, & Changed a Lot.
These 2 boards stiffened up the side dull flop, to the point,
It will be under a little pressure, not terrible, but its something I noted after the fact, after it was done.
The cap was cut open at the transom, so that may offer some forgiveness, I'll post it too.
These are the sort of things to look out for, And I'm admitting guilt of a ut oh/goof.
Below;
You can see how the transom is cut out of the cap
