1965 StarCraft Explorer Rebuild

[e8mylur]

I just got a deal, I hope, $600, on a 65' StarCraft Explorer and trailer with the exterior hull in good shape and the interior in fair shape. I've read some posts on here before starting my own and one concern is the floor. I understand this boat has the air chamber floatation and after some reading, it looks like I'll be doing some pour foam to eliminate any voids or leaks. I plan on leaving the livewells and removing the center glass console and building an aluminum side console. The boat had a 65hp Merc on it, but I know it's rated for a 40. It hasn't been in the water since the 90's. I have a 2000 15hp 4 stroke Merc for now, but when I'm done, I might opt for a 50hp Honda. I've been taking pics since the pick up. We'll see how it goes from here. Input, ideas and comments are always welcome. Thanks Mike.
On!

 

[Scott Danforth]

welcome aboard

nothing you can do to the boat to make it rated for 50hp if the boat was rated for 40

 

[matt167]

50hp Honda will be far too heavy.. An Evinrude/ Johnson Big Twin 40hp was probably the intended motor when it was new. They weigh the same as a modern 4 stroke 25hp

 

[e8mylur]

welcome aboard

nothing you can do to the boat to make it rated for 50hp if the boat was rated for 40

True words. I'm just wondering what they were thinking with the 65hp that it had on it.

 

[e8mylur]

50hp Honda will be far too heavy.. An Evinrude/ Johnson Big Twin 40hp was probably the intended motor when it was new. They weigh the same as a modern 4 stroke 25hp

Yeah, I looked into it some and the 40 and 50 Honda are the same at 215, the lightest in that class. The old 40 Johnson was about 160, so not a huge difference I think, about the weight of a battery. I'll run with the 15hp the I have for now, plenty of time for more research. Thanks for the input, things to take into consideration.

 

[matt167]

True words. I'm just wondering what they were thinking with the 65hp that it had on it.

It's not uncommon, but not recommended.
A 4cyl 650 does not weigh much more than a 4cyl 500, so it's not that big of a deal with a vintage motor

My Grandparents had a 1963 Custom Craft Sea Ray bought new, and they had it repowered with a 1964 650 at the dealer 1 year later, so that it would pull a skier better

 

[matt167]

Yeah, I looked into it some and the 40 and 50 Honda are the same at 215, the lightest in that class. The old 40 Johnson was about 160, so not a huge difference I think, about the weight of a battery. I'll run with the 15hp the I have for now, plenty of time for more research. Thanks for the input, things to take into consideration.

Also considering that ratings all changed from gross hp ( crank ) to Net hp ( prop ) by 1990 across all brands. Johnson/ Evinrude by '85 I'm pretty sure. An old 650 probably does not make 60hp at the prop. A 40hp would make about 35hp.

A modern 30hp 4 stroke would likely be just fine. I JUST ordered a brand new Suzuki DF25A for my '66 SC Holiday 14 also rated for 40hp ( and currently running a Big Twin 40hp )

 

[e8mylur]

Well, it looks like it wet under the floor in the air chambers. I'm going to remove the flooring, repair the rot, add pour foam and replace the flooring. Question is, do I use the polyester resin or epoxy? What's the difference? Tia.

 

[e8mylur]

Well, looks like I'm going to USComp for the polyester resin system. Before I purchased the boat, I inquired about the hull. I was told it didn't leak because it was full of water when he got it a month ago. I stripped the boat, found some soft flooring so I started poking around. I ended up removing the floor to find rotted stringers and standing water still. Looks like I'm going to learn how to do fiberglass.. Still optimistic though, pushing on with great plans for this puppy.

 

[hgxsilver]

Yes! I've run into a similar situation a few years when I got my first boat. Its like when you bought your first car really, not always the best decision but you learn a lot from it.
No matter how "well" you do, you'll know how to make it better the next time. Plenty of "rotten stringers" information out there. Have fun. Wear a good mask for the resin!

 

[GSPLures]

I would definitely redesign how they have the floor supports. The way the stringers are cut into and no glass protecting that area as soon as water gets in there it will start to rot.

 

[e8mylur]

Absolutely, complete resign and layout of the stringers. All wood will be fully glassed and pour foam under the floor. Still working on the casting deck and hatch work layout. Thanks for the input.

 

[e8mylur]

Pushing on through the three day weekend. I've got all the wood out, transom is solid. Most of the excess fiberglass removed. And the exterior tan paint removed to reveal the baby blue original color. I have to patch the old livewell holes in the bottom and may do another gelcoat with the original blue exterior and go white for the interior.

 

[hgxsilver]

You say you removed all the delaminated cloth? The secondary braces that were added across the beam makes me wonder if the strength of the fiberglass floor was shot. The fiberglass work that had been done looks like did the cheapest thing to make the floor stronger? I guess hard to say

 

[GSPLures]

How did you determine the transom was solid?

Knock tests dont work, only way to tell for sure is core samples. Just want to make sure you dont go through all this work to end up redoing it in a year or 2 if the transom is comprimised.

 

[e8mylur]

You say you removed all the delaminated cloth? The secondary braces that were added across the beam makes me wonder if the strength of the fiberglass floor was shot. The fiberglass work that had been done looks like did the cheapest thing to make the floor stronger? I guess hard to say

I have a few more spots to remove the delaminated cloth, the cross bracing was pretty sad as I used a hatchet to remove most of it, just to avoid alot of dust. I have been you tubing alot and haven't seen anyone put in the crap I took out.. I'll be replacing the stringers with the same layout, 18" centers on the length and 16" centers on the cross bracing. The main difference is the I will be fully encapsulating the supports, water tight with pour foam in between. The previous floor was not sealed on the bottom and delamed on the top, not much wood was left. I'm looking into Coosa board for flooring and decks now. Be not cheap though.
Thanks, I'm learning, this is all new to me.

 

[e8mylur]

How did you determine the transom was solid?

Knock tests dont work, only way to tell for sure is core samples. Just want to make sure you dont go through all this work to end up redoing it in a year or 2 if the transom is comprimised.

I took the aluminum cap off the top of the transom and wood is two layers of 3/4" ply. It is solid and not delaminated. I did do some knock testing and sounds solid. But, after your question, I'm questioning it myself. And it looks solid where I removed the motor bolts. As I am already doing so much glasswork on the inside, a couple of exploratory cuts down at the base of the transom inside will be happening.
Thank you very much for the insight.. This is why I got on this forum, to learn how to do things right. I listen to everyone's input and filter through to form my own thoughts and techniques. Dang if I didn't learn something new, again.
Thanks again for the input.

 

[hgxsilver]

I have a few more spots to remove the delaminated cloth, the cross bracing was pretty sad as I used a hatchet to remove most of it, just to avoid alot of dust. I have been you tubing alot and haven't seen anyone put in the crap I took out.. I'll be replacing the stringers with the same layout, 18" centers on the length and 16" centers on the cross bracing. The main difference is the I will be fully encapsulating the supports, water tight with pour foam in between. The previous floor was not sealed on the bottom and delamed on the top, not much wood was left. I'm looking into Coosa board for flooring and decks now. Be not cheap though.
Thanks, I'm learning, this is all new to me.

That sounds great. I'm sure you realize how quickly things add up in cost! Don't get ahead of yourself buying expensive stuff when ply will do.
have fun

 

[e8mylur]

That sounds great. I'm sure you realize how quickly things add up in cost! Don't get ahead of yourself buying expensive stuff when ply will do.
have fun

Thanks, I priced the Coosa, and I'll be doing plywood. I already have some 3/4"x 2'x8' sheets laying around, so I'll be doing stringers with that. Probably do 3/8" floor and 1/2" casting decks.

 

[e8mylur]

How did you determine the transom was solid?

Knock tests dont work, only way to tell for sure is core samples. Just want to make sure you dont go through all this work to end up redoing it in a year or 2 if the transom is comprimised.

GPS Lures, Thank you, your comment has had a burning itch in my head until now. With a sigh of relief, I drilled a 1" hole in the transom for the new livewell pump that just showed up today. The core sample looks good, dry, and no sign of delamination. I feel better.Thanks for putting it in my head.