1962 Arkansas Traveler restoration

[Darren Nemeth]

Re: 1962 Arkansas Traveler restoration

I could be wrong but the red wire thing is a on/off switch.

 

[archbuilder]

Re: 1962 Arkansas Traveler restoration

Mick I think the red one should go on the ignition circuit. That would be in a car of course.....I would switch it for the boat. That way when the motor is off (I doubt you have an accesory switch on your ignition) you can still listen to the toones. You can skip the fuse block if it has in-line fuses.

 

[JoeFisher]

Re: 1962 Arkansas Traveler restoration

I'm 99% certain that just has to be a switched power, in other words the yellow wire keeps the memory of presets, equalizer etc and the red wire is to let it know to turn on the display and supply power to the speakers.

So if you do have an accessory part on your switch wire it to that and if not just wire in a toggle switch from the red wire to your yellow or, to the fuse block.

Joe

 

[micks110]

Re: 1962 Arkansas Traveler restoration

Wow! Thanks guys for the quick responses! So let me take a shot at this? Just connect the red and yellow together and run them to the positive fuse block? DONE!

 

[archbuilder]

Re: 1962 Arkansas Traveler restoration

no the red has to be switched, otherwise it will run the battery down, The yellow needs power all the time....it keeps the memory and time.

 

[mark1961]

Re: 1962 Arkansas Traveler restoration

In relation to your stereo wiring, are you intending to run a battery isolation switch?

If you are, the yellow wire will need to be run back to the switch (live side) or battery + to maintain constant 12v as that wire is for radio memory (settings, station presets etc). The red wire needs to be hooked up to switchable 12v, so anywhere up front there that is live when your isolation switch is on or preferably acc circuit if you have one. No extra fuses wil be required.

 

[micks110]

Re: 1962 Arkansas Traveler restoration

So I have to put a switch in there? At the end of the red wire?

I'm confused- tell me what I need to do with the red?

The yellow I understand- connect it to the positive on the fuse block.

 

[mark1961]

Re: 1962 Arkansas Traveler restoration

So I have to put a switch in there? At the end of the red wire?

I'm confused- tell me what I need to do with the red?

The yellow I understand- connect it to the positive on the fuse block.

Will you be running an isolation switch or not?

The stereo needs to be wired up much the same as a car, the red circuit ideally needs to be unpowered when you are not likely to be using it, otherwise battery drain could be the result.

 

[micks110]

Re: 1962 Arkansas Traveler restoration

what is an isolation switch? Like a toggle switch?

 

[mark1961]

Re: 1962 Arkansas Traveler restoration

what is an isolation switch? Like a toggle switch?

No, its a heavy duty switch (will add link) used to isolate the vessels entire electrical system (minus that yellow wire ), usually located near the battery.

http://shop.ebay.com/i.html?_nkw=marine+battery+switch&_armrs=1&_from=&_ipg=&_sop=12

Reread my previous post, have added some additional info.

 

[micks110]

Re: 1962 Arkansas Traveler restoration

Thanks Mark. I noticed the extra info you added. Wouldn't it be un-powered if I just turn it off when not in use? Do I need to worry about battery drain when my uni-charger is putting out 20 amps?
I'm looking forward to your link

 

[BobsGlasstream]

Re: 1962 Arkansas Traveler restoration

Hey Mick,
Looks like that dash is really taking shape.
Looks good.
You may want to think about a Master power switch for all your accessory's.
Glad to see you updates.
Bob

 

[mark1961]

Re: 1962 Arkansas Traveler restoration

Thanks Mark. I noticed the extra info you added. Wouldn't it be un-powered if I just turn it off when not in use? Do I need to worry about battery drain when my uni-charger is putting out 20 amps?
I'm looking forward to your link

Link added to previous post mate.

Alot depends on the unit, does it still "light up" in anyway or display time etc even when the unit is switched off?

 

[micks110]

Re: 1962 Arkansas Traveler restoration

hey bob!
So far my only accessory is the radio and the 12 volt charger. The way I understand it is if the engine is running the unicharger will continually be charging the battery. If the engine is off, and I have the radio on then I will be running directly off the battery which will over time(a long time) drain the battery.

I haven't even considered a master off switch because I have so few accessories.

If I have the engine off, and radio turned off, it will not be draining the battery will it???

 

[micks110]

Re: 1962 Arkansas Traveler restoration

Link added to previous post mate.

Alot depends on the unit, does it still "light up" in any way or display time etc even when the unit is switched off?

When this unit is turned off, the clock will still display so I guess it will be pulling some. If this is the case couldn't I just add a simple two way switch under the dash near the radio to just power off the juice to the radio?

 

[mark1961]

Re: 1962 Arkansas Traveler restoration

When this unit is turned off, the clock will still display so I guess it will be pulling some. If this is the case couldn't I just add a simple two way switch under the dash near the radio to just power off the juice to the radio?

If you will not be installing an isolation switch (preferable, think about all those other live circuits in there, pretty easy to install too) then it would be advisable unless you like disconnecting battery terminals all the time, youd be surprised just how much juice they can drain especially over time, boats do tend to sit around alot unused unlike automobiles.

 

[seamorewaterVIP]

Re: 1962 Arkansas Traveler restoration

That's funny skibum!

Ok, I got alot done last night- I was up until 4am working on the electrical. I pretty much have everything done except the speedo because it's not here yet. I think I'm going to go ahead and order the tach also because I had to move the speedo over to the center of the dash because of lack of room because the speedo is 4" in diameter. So now I have some open space where the speedo was supposed to be so I think I'm going to go ahead and do the tach (2").

The other area I have issue with is the stereo hook up- I'm stuck right now. Check out the pics and the part in the video and let me know what you think!

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OK- here are the other pics of the dash with the rotary steering in place- I didn't run the cable yet- I'm still waiting on the wheel to arrive.
Also, the stereo and speakers are in. All my electrical is done except for the speedo and tach. Although I have to undo everything soon before I sand, fill, prime, and paint.

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The VIDEO
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W5y122X3jYc

hey mick nice work according to the schematic they yellow wire is the always on power for the clock on the radio the red wire should to to the ignition switch or toggle switch so that power is activated when the ignition is in the on position that way the radio is not creating power drain when the ignition is off. it is a good idea to run the red wire to some sort of switch cuz the batery will be dead every time you go to use the boat. the amp in the radio draws power when the red wire is connected to power. I assume you only have a two stage ignition switch you have on position start position and off position. figure out which pole on the switch is hot with the key in the on position and cold with the key off then run a wire from it to the red wire on the radio. Power will come from the power block to the ign swt through switch then onto the radio. if you want to use the fuse box instead of inline just go from the ing swtch to fuse block to radio. just make sure the pole on the fuse box does not have power fed from else where.

as far as fuses I would not use the inline fuses unless they are easly accessable when the cap is back on the boat. AS well, you can run them throgh the fuse block just make sure the fuses in the block have the same amp rating as the inline fuses.

 

[SKIBUM1M]

Re: 1962 Arkansas Traveler restoration

Mick, I simply ran a switch on a power wire to feed my radio's yellow wire as well as the lights, bilge pump, and clock in the dash. everything else runs from the ignition switch. Now as long as my ignition switch and this switch are off there is no draw at all even iff i leave something on these 2 switches kill everything so I dont forget and kill the battery

 

[mark1961]

Re: 1962 Arkansas Traveler restoration

Mick, I simply ran a switch on a power wire to feed my radio's yellow wire as well as the lights, bilge pump, and clock in the dash. everything else runs from the ignition switch. Now as long as my ignition switch and this switch are off there is no draw at all even iff i leave something on these 2 switches kill everything so I dont forget and kill the battery

Only problem with that is you have re-do the radio settings/presets and the clock every time you flick that switch.

Isolation switch run in conjunction with a fused switch panel and positive and negative bus bars is the best way to go imo, that way you can isolate everything except that pesky yellow wire AND a seperate clock if you like.

You also have the added advantage of being able to isolate everything (apart from that yellow bugger), ign, starter & tilt/trim inclusive quickly in the event of an electrical short circuit.

 

[micks110]

Re: 1962 Arkansas Traveler restoration

Thanks Again Guys! I think I got it now, and I remember the guy at my boat place saying something about connecting it to the ignition switch. So I connect the yellow to the positive and run it to the fuse block. Then I run the red to the "ignition on" switch- that way it powers up only when the key is turned.

I have to ask again though at my boat place- I'm assuming the ignition on switch is (the one in the 6th picture on the far right) three red wires on the same terminal that are for power, a white wire, and the brown "ignition" wire that runs to the gas gauge.

Thanks again guys!