1960 40hp Evinrude Mystery

[ssdale]

Two ways, both with no results.
1. with adjustable spark tester set with 1/16 gap ground to block with clip, and a jumper wire to the braided ground strap stud, just to be sure.
2. inserting spark plug and grounding base to the block. this same method showed me the weak spark at the beginning of all this, although that was spinning it with the starter.

 

[racerone]

I would say that the points are NOT opening at the correct time !

 

[Tim Frank]

Use short socket wrench on flywheel to smartly crank clockwise.
No Spark!
I am literally at the end of my rope as to what else to try.

See OldBoats #79 and I think someone else mentioned it, too :

I am not sure that a socket wrench is going to get you the spin rate that you need to generate a spark.
If there is no rope start option, you probably need the starter re-installed, although you might be able to wind a rope onto the flywheel.
IMO, from reading your activity, and your attention to detail and to the suggestions you are getting, you may already have successfully completed the work.

 

[racerone]

These magnetos are completely seperate from each other.---No spark on either one with all new parts means.----Mistake is being made !

 

[ssdale]

These magnetos are completely seperate from each other.---No spark on either one with all new parts means.----Mistake is being made !

I agree with your reasoning and I have thought the same thing. However if I am spinning too slowly, wouldn't that also (be the mistake) effect both sets the same as Tim and oldboat say??

As far as timing the points, They are open at top of cam, cam is on correct spot on crank,
When Marks on top of flywheel are over vertical dashes on plate, points are open and at .020 through the inspection hole at each respective position.

Other than just randomly trying to close the points incrementally, what else is there to do on timing the points ??( we've beat this to death, I know)

There is a rope starter, depending if I get any more info, I will try it or torque down and use battery starter leaving "kill" wires disconnected. There is no fuel in carb after rebuild. If I just use the rope, I could just snug the flywheel down and worry about torque later?

Thanks to all,
Dale

 

[racerone]

I think you need to review the timing marks on the magplate and the flywheel.---So first post a picture of the 2 timing marks on the BOTTOM of the flywheel.--These marks are the ones used to time the points

 

[HighTrim]

Um wait a minute. Maybe Im missing something. How are you spinning the flywheel? Just with a ratchet on the nut after you snug on the flywheel? You are putting the flywheel on right?

You may need more speed than that as stated. You may have been going over things that did not need going over!

Use a rope with the spark plugs out, or, better yet, use your starter. You may be fixing something that doesn't need fixing.

 

[ssdale]

No Title

Needed more speed. When I used the starter-SPARK-! 1/4 inch with tester from both.
Case of amateur over think. One thing is for sure, I will understand magneto ignition to the point of replacing components in my sleep!
Too cold to put fuel and barrel test today, but I will definitely try to finish up the Starcraft resto with the confidence that I have a motor with compression and now spark. I will start a new thread if I need help with the carb (I will try not to over think it)
Thank you guys for helping me to learn my way through!
Dale

 

[Willyclay]

Attaboy!

 

[Tim Frank]

Never mind that soothing tea thing, time to crack a cold beer and pat yourself on the back.

 

[oldboat1]

Hey -- good job, Dale!

NOW -- go way back to #3. If it were mine, I would see if I could test run it a little, and then decide what's next. It's a nice clean motor and might already have a nice clean carb (along with a brand new magneto). Fire it up and let it idle a while if it's up and running. Sip a beer, and picture it out on the lake. Maybe you're both ready for prime time.

Curt (oldboat)

 

[ssdale]

Thank you Curt ! You helped me a lot. I took F_R suggestion to heart in #3: The part about killing two birds and doing things while the flywheel is removed:
-Last month I took off the starter, carb, and installed the carb kit. It was all a snap with the flywheel out of the way.
-The carb was super clean, but now I know that the float is good, new needle valve, new gaskets, packings and the high and low speed needles look really good.
-Taped and checked continuity of a few of the harness wires that are pre-molded into the wiring harness plug since it is a hard to replace component on these motors. (cobra head)
-Installed new alcohol resistant fuel lines and replaced the bowl screen and gasket.

Ready to Give it a try when the job and weather cooperate. I want to not be in a hurry when I barrel test and do it right the first time. 24:1
I feel like a mechanic now thanks to this forum. Hopefully it will help others too.
Dale

 

[oldboat1]

Ready for Spring!

Best.

 

[lindy46]

Great looking rig. Glad you got her firing. I had a '60 Lark back in the day - great motor.

 

[ssdale]

Well today was finally the day! I got out the whole rig and my son and I barrel tested the Lark. To our amazement she popped right off! I killed it a few times trying to adjust the carb, but we let her run until the automatic choke took over and the thermostat opened up so we could watch her pump some water.

Thanks to this forum and especially a few of you guys who did not give up on me, I have a running machine. All I have is a still shot of her running in the barrel. But here it is.http://[URL=http://s1194.photobucket.com/user/ssdale/media/1960%20Evinrude/20160410_145338_zpsieq0qgen.jpg.html]

Now I can finally finish the resto of my 1959 Starcraft over in the resto forum! Thanks again to all.
Dale[/URL]

 

[Willyclay]

Attaboy!

 

[oldboat1]

^^+1. Very nice piece of work. Well done!

 

[ssdale]

Here she is out on the Gasconade Riverhttp://
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​I cannot get the motor to start with the automatic water choke in the "choked" position. I always have to unchoke the carb before she will start. After the motor warms up, the choke stays open when I set it to "automatic", so I know it is functioning correctly when it warms up. I have her running nicely except for the annoyance of having to unchoke the carb after spinning unsuccessfully for a time or two.

​I have read, asked, and worked my way through every other issue, with your help I can get her to start like she should also!
​Help appreciated,
Dale

 

[jimmbo]

​I cannot get the motor to start with the automatic water choke in the "choked" position. I always have to unchoke the carb before she will start. After the motor warms up, the choke stays open when I set it to "automatic", so I know it is functioning correctly when it warms up. I have her running nicely except for the annoyance of having to unchoke the carb after spinning unsuccessfully for a time or two.


Dale

What does the choke do when set to 'Automatic' and the engine is cold? It should be closed and open slightly when the engine starts. If it is not opening slightly when engine starts, the pull off diaphragm may be ruptured or the hose supplying vacuum is leaking or not attached to the intake

 

[ssdale]

IN "automatic" setting it does exactly as you say- it is closed and sort of flutteres as the engine is cranked. The hoses are good and in place. Would choke still open when warm, which it does, with a ruptured diaphragm?