1957 Johnson Rd-19 35hp questions

Amphipod

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Hello! I am 16 and have been working on this outboard for a while now. Dad got it at an auction and the guy who sold it didn't know anything about it. It hadn't been run in many years, but it is in overall very good condition. I rebuilt the carb with a kit from marineengines.com, and yesterday I got it all back together and started her up. I set the needles as per the repair manual, and I was able to get the idle set nicely, but I am having issues with the high speed. If I slowly open the throttle it gets to about 2,700-3,000 rpms then it starts to make loud banging noises and shake lots and rev higher, without me having changed the throttle. I can't find out whether I need to set the needle leaner, or richer, or if this an entirely different problem altogether. I also set the spark synchronization as the manual said. Any help is much appreciated. Thanks!
 

Amphipod

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Also, I can't find the max rpm's for this engine. Is there a max, or am I supposed to get it as high as I can?
 

cyclops222

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You need a Timing Light and a tachometer. The loud odd noises are probably preignition or a lot of carbon in the engine becoming red hot and causing the noises.......... What gasoline to oil ratio are you using ? Are you using a oil that SPECIFIES to be used in water cooled 2 stroke engines ? A REALLY BIG STRONG GUY with thick work gloves is needed to hold the flywheel as high Foot Pounds are reached !!
That banging noise has probably broken the small key piece between the inside of the flywheel and the engine Crankshaft.
You will need to get that flywheel nut off of the flywheel. To check if that TINY curved piece of key is broken. Not sure how tight that nut holding the flywheel is to be tightened !! Can be critical for the curved key piece to NOT brake on running the motor. Can be 100 foot pounds as needed. I sheared 2 of those flywheel keys in a row. I was not doing it tight enough. Do it with 2 people and a...Torque Wrench set to correct force. NO other way will work !!
 

Amphipod

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You need a Timing Light and a tachometer. The loud odd noises are probably preignition or a lot of carbon in the engine becoming red hot and causing the noises.......... What gasoline to oil ratio are you using ? Are you using a oil that SPECIFIES to be used in water cooled 2 stroke engines ? A REALLY BIG STRONG GUY with thick work gloves is needed to hold the flywheel as high Foot Pounds are reached !!
That banging noise has probably broken the small key piece between the inside of the flywheel and the engine Crankshaft.
You will need to get that flywheel nut off of the flywheel. To check if that TINY curved piece of key is broken. Not sure how tight that nut holding the flywheel is to be tightened !! Can be critical for the curved key piece to NOT brake on running the motor. Can be 100 foot pounds as needed. I sheared 2 of those flywheel keys in a row. I was not doing it tight enough. Do it with 2 people and a...Torque Wrench set to correct force. NO other way will work !!
Thanks! I am using a 24:1 ratio. The oil is not specified for water cooled engines, but I thought it didn't matter since I am only getting it running and not running it for more than 5 minutes at a time. I will check the timing and the key.
 

cyclops222

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Is it running in a about 30 gallon tub or barrel with the prop removed ? And about 8" of water over the small inlet holes. Have you run the motor with no water ? For 5 minutes ?
 

Amphipod

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Is it running in a about 30 gallon tub or barrel with the prop removed ? And about 8" of water over the small inlet holes. Have you run the motor with no water ? For 5 minutes ?
I have it on the boat with about a 30 gallon barrel under it and water about 6"-8" over the holes. I've only ran it in the barrel, not dry EVER. I've just been running it in neutral, I never thought of taking the prop off but since you mentioned it I'll take it off. Since you said timing might be an issue, I watched a few of T-Mike's videos, and I'm 90% sure that is the problem. I'll check it tomorrow. I sure do appreciate the help!
 

Crosbyman

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use proper oil !!! TCW3or TCW3 is it . :) ... throw in a bottle of engine cleaner it wont hurt
to service that oldy the bettr book is this one if you dont have it

/

to timing
see video
 

cyclops222

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Be VERY CAREFUL when buying the TCW3 oil !!!!!!
It is made for 2 different types of engine. Cooler running outboard motors.
OR OR OR
TCW3 for air cooled motors. DO NOT buy or use the AIR COOLED type of oil !!. It coats the sparkplugs with black carbon in a few hours and will cause very bad running engine. Plug change is only way to come home. Been there several times.
 

Amphipod

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Mar 18, 2024
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use proper oil !!! TCW3or TCW3 is it . :) ... throw in a bottle of engine cleaner it wont hurt
to service that oldy the bettr book is this one if you dont have it

/

to timing
see video
Thanks! I'll get some proper oil. We usually have it, but I just ran out mixing for another engine. And yes sir, that's the manual I have! That's where I got it too. It's a good one, but there are SO many pages.
 

Amphipod

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Be VERY CAREFUL when buying the TCW3 oil !!!!!!
It is made for 2 different types of engine. Cooler running outboard motors.
OR OR OR
TCW3 for air cooled motors. DO NOT buy or use the AIR COOLED type of oil !!. It coats the sparkplugs with black carbon in a few hours and will cause very bad running engine. Plug change is only way to come home. Been there several times.
I was not aware of that! I will be careful. Thanks!
 

Crosbyman

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Neither was I TC two cycle W water 3 3rd generation oil


if it says it meets TCW3 isis good for water cooled engines yet some are better than others quality wise Wally mart oil was always smelly in my old Merc 500 ... Mercury oil wasalways better :)

any info on this TCW3 for air colled engines ???
 

tphoyt

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Running up the rpm’s with no load on it a bad plan. Best to get it the water for testing and adjusting. Do a water pump service before that if you haven’t done it yet.
 

rolmops

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You should start with buying a Seloc manual for Johnson/Evinrude Outboards 1.5 to 40 hp.The 1956 to 1970 version. Yes a Seloc because it has everything in it that you need and it is written with the beginner in mind. I have owned 3 1957 35 horse Johnsons and apart from being very thirsty engines , they are great.
As for the 1-24 mix. That was when using 30 weight SAE engine oil and was for motors that had bushings. The 57s already has needle bearings and OMC wrote a publication in 1961 that this engine can be run on 1:50. Considering the age I stayed with 1:32 with marine tcw3. You don't need a timing light . What you need is setting the opening on the points very precisely and get the link(age) and sinc(hronisation) properly set and it will be perfectly timed.
To set the high rpm needle properly, you should first of all remove the needle and check if it is in good condition, not dull or ground up, Then you should also check the felt washer inside to see if it is in there and in good condition. Hand tighten the needle and then turn it 2 and a half turns out and run the engine at roughly a thousand rpm. Next, slowly tighten the needle until the rpm goes up until the engine starts running irregular. Turn the needle about a quarter to half turn back out and you should be set, not too lean and not too rich. It is important to replace all the fuel hoses if that has not yet been done. The banging may be caused by air being sucked into the system because of brittle or leaky hoses. If the fuel supply comes from a pressure tank, make sure that you do indeed have the proper pressure. If it has been changed to a fuel pump system you should not have that problem. Do read up on decarbing the engine.
I could go on but most of this stuff can be found in the books.
Good luck.
 

Amphipod

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Neither was I TC two cycle W water 3 3rd generation oil


if it says it meets TCW3 isis good for water cooled engines yet some are better than others quality wise Wally mart oil was always smelly in my old Merc 500 ... Mercury oil wasalways better :)

any info on this TCW3 for air colled engines ???
I'll get some quality stuff. (I've always been leery of oil from Wally world, anyway!)
 

Amphipod

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Mar 18, 2024
Messages
56
Running up the rpm’s with no load on it a bad plan. Best to get it the water for testing and adjusting. Do a water pump service before that if you haven’t done it yet.
Thanks! I am definitely going to fine tune it on the water. I was just trying to make sure it runs before I have dad take me to the lake.
 

Amphipod

Seaman
Joined
Mar 18, 2024
Messages
56
You should start with buying a Seloc manual for Johnson/Evinrude Outboards 1.5 to 40 hp.The 1956 to 1970 version. Yes a Seloc because it has everything in it that you need and it is written with the beginner in mind. I have owned 3 1957 35 horse Johnsons and apart from being very thirsty engines , they are great.
As for the 1-24 mix. That was when using 30 weight SAE engine oil and was for motors that had bushings. The 57s already has needle bearings and OMC wrote a publication in 1961 that this engine can be run on 1:50. Considering the age I stayed with 1:32 with marine tcw3. You don't need a timing light . What you need is setting the opening on the points very precisely and get the link(age) and sinc(hronisation) properly set and it will be perfectly timed.
To set the high rpm needle properly, you should first of all remove the needle and check if it is in good condition, not dull or ground up, Then you should also check the felt washer inside to see if it is in there and in good condition. Hand tighten the needle and then turn it 2 and a half turns out and run the engine at roughly a thousand rpm. Next, slowly tighten the needle until the rpm goes up until the engine starts running irregular. Turn the needle about a quarter to half turn back out and you should be set, not too lean and not too rich. It is important to replace all the fuel hoses if that has not yet been done. The banging may be caused by air being sucked into the system because of brittle or leaky hoses. If the fuel supply comes from a pressure tank, make sure that you do indeed have the proper pressure. If it has been changed to a fuel pump system you should not have that problem. Do read up on decarbing the engine.
I could go on but most of this stuff can be found in the books.
Good luck.
Thanks for the help! I'll set the points today. I already synchronized it. The needle's in good condition, but I know I need to replace the hoses. I'll try that way of tuning the high speed. (The manual said 3/4 of a turn, which I was having trouble believing.) It is still using the two hose tank, but I checked and it has pressure. I just have to keep priming it for a couple seconds to let it build up. I was going to use Dunk's decarb procedure to decarb it, is that fine?
 

rolmops

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On a side note.
When you decarb the engine , make sure that the wind will move the smoke away from houses and stuff like that. It produces a wicked mean black smoke. Last time I did it, I had the cops over in my backyard because they thought I had a fire in my yard, which, by the way, proved that the engine really needed it. If it is your intention to paint the cowling you should know that the color that was used is called "Holiday Bronze". The best way to get the proper color is taking your engine to one of those places where they take a picture of the color, stick it in their computer and perfectly reproduce it. Sikkens paints usually have the best results.
 
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tphoyt

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Messages
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On a side note.
When you decarb the engine , make sure that the wind will move the smoke away from houses and stuff like that. It produces a wicked mean black smoke. Last time I did it, I had the cops over in my backyard because they thought I had a fire in my yard, which, by the way, proved that the engine really needed it.
My buddy’s neighbor set my buddys smoke alarms off while using seafoam in his lawn mower. Smoked up the whole neighborhood 😂
 
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