1957 Evinrude 35hp

HighTrim

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Re: 1957 Evinrude 35hp

You are testing the points gap seperately from one another right when the rubbing block of the points is touching the high point of the cam, usually the keyway? Sorry if I read that incorrectly, but sounds like you pulled the flywheel and tested the point gap where it layed.
 

livinfulltilt

Seaman
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May 1, 2012
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Re: 1957 Evinrude 35hp

No, just pulled the flywheel and saw that one was gapped, measured it, and it was at .020. Then, looking at the other, I noticed it was touching, with no gap at all.

After reading your comment I have to ask, do the points close with the cam lobe? (Do outboards have cam lobes similar to automotive cams?) Anyhow, Ill leave the points alone until I get clarification on this. Thanks!

Besides the points, I ended up pulling the hood off my 1955 Johnson 10hp to see if the linkage was similar (to maybe give me an idea of what is missing and how it needs to work)... My buddy did notice that the homemade tiller handle was rubbing and possibly binding up and preventing the ability to turn the handle to wide open throttle. This is what I am working on this evening, and Ill be modifying the tiller handle as necessary to accomodate full travel with no binding.

Also found a crack in the electric starter bracket. Will be pulling this off too so I can take it to be welded (i dont have any way to weld aluminum, shouldnt be more than $10)
 

livinfulltilt

Seaman
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Re: 1957 Evinrude 35hp

Heres where I am at so far... Im wondering how much farther I should tear this motor down (availability of parts??). Im fine with the gaskets, if worse comes to worse I can always make my own gaskets.

So far...
1. im planning to replace old springs, cotter pins, screws/bolts that need replacing.
2. Would *like* to disassemble and repaint to factory colors (by the way, can I use automotive grade paint for areas that will be submerged or will the paint deteriorate?)
3. What areas do I need to be careful about...? Special tools??
4. Can I pull off the part that has the coils and points? Im NOT mechanically challenged, but would there be any timing issues to address or some type of calibration needed during reassembly of this part?

Ideally I would like to take the motor down as far as possible to facilitate new paint. However, I do not wish to disassemble the crankshaft or pistons. Compression checked out at 110-115 per cylinder so tearing these down would be counterproductive in my opinion.

Thanks for the help!

thCAZR6KB4_zps9bf450ae.jpg
 

HighTrim

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Re: 1957 Evinrude 35hp

The mag plate (which the coils/condensors/points are mounted on) is easily removed. 4 screws. 2 long ones through the coil laminations, and 2 small ones beside the points. Then lift it off. Be sure to clean and regrease lightly upon reinstallation.

These outboards have fixed timing by the location of the flywheel key, so you will not throw anything off.

The points open/close by the eccentric shape of the cam their rubbing blocks ride one. They are set at 020 when the rubbing block for the points is aligned with with the keyway in the crank taper usually, but the widest point of the cam. They will never be at 020 at the same time.
 

livinfulltilt

Seaman
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Re: 1957 Evinrude 35hp

Darn. I was actually hoping that the one point was in need of adjustment, would have been an obvious explanation for the poor performance (acceleration and limited throttle) when we had it out this last summer. I guess at least I can pull it apart with no worries, lol.

Just curious, does anyone have any pictures of the throttle linkage (including the little wheel - cam follower roller??). The manual that I have is in PDF format, however the pictures are terrible and pretty much useless.

Also, if I tear down the lower unit, are there any special tools I need to reassemble it? I ask this for two reasons, 1. I will be taking part of the lower unit to the machine shop to have a bolt hole re-tapped, and 2. Because I would like to repaint the entire outboard motor.

As usual, thank you everyone for your help, I know I have a lot of questions.
 

lindy46

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Re: 1957 Evinrude 35hp

If you plan on re-sealing the lower unit, you will need a standard ($10-12) seal puller available at any auto parts store. You will also need one special tool to drive out the bushing which holds the shift rod O-ring in place. See attached picture. Standard tools will suffice for the rest of the job.
 

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HighTrim

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Re: 1957 Evinrude 35hp

I reccomend F_R's tools. Check out his website, one of his many is the aforementioned shift rod bushing tool.

Frank's Tools

Regarding your lack of power, you may be running on one cylinder as you though. Clean the points and adjust the gap. Is it sparking on both cylinders?
 

livinfulltilt

Seaman
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Re: 1957 Evinrude 35hp

Thank you both for the pic and the tool link!

Yes, Im getting spark to both cylinders. I was starting to suspect the coils may just be in need of replacement, but after pulling the flywheel the coils look to be in good condition. Is there a way to test these coils with a multimeter to verify they are good/bad before I throw good money at potentially unecessary replacement parts?

Heres a couple pics of the shift linkage for my 35. Ive been polishing a few parts here and there to dress the motor up a little. I know its not necessary, but I take alot of pride in my work and I cant believe some of these parts are hidden beneath paint. Im planning on coating the polished parts with a sealer or clear coat to prevent possible corrosion or tarnishing. I think I have about 3 hours in this shift linkage?

Enjoy!

IMG_20130118_201058_zps2f1fb774.jpg


IMG_20130118_201211_zpsc138a9d6.jpg
 

livinfulltilt

Seaman
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Re: 1957 Evinrude 35hp

Thanks! Ive been at a stand still until I can figure out the linkage assembly. I really have nothing to compare it too and I have a hardware city just down the street, so springs, bolts, rods to make linkage etc are literally at my fingertips.
 

HighTrim

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Re: 1957 Evinrude 35hp

Those coils are new, so should be fine. You can test the continuity of the primary and secondary windings with a multimeter, however that is not the best of tests. The primary is almost always good. It is a short/fat wire. Testing it should bury the needle. The secondary is where the trouble usually is. It is long and thin. The trouble is, sometimes there is a break, so the ends are still touching and you will get continuity on the meter, but once they warm up the gap will widen and you will lose spark. A tester like a Mercotronic is ideal, it puts a load on the coil when it tests it, but obviouisly the average guy is not going to have one of these laying around.

Ill get down to the dungeon later and pull out a '57 Big Twin and take a pic for ya.
 

livinfulltilt

Seaman
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Re: 1957 Evinrude 35hp

Thanks, I appreciate your offer to take a few pics of your big twin!

Found some good news tonight... I pulled the assembly containing the coils and points, removed the coils and I think I found the culprit(and possibly why the prior owner(s) did not...). While the coils appear to be new from first glance, disassembly proved otherwise.

The coil with no external hints at malfunction didnt seem to test well on my multimeter (will test a couple more times to be sure...) and the other coil appears to be missing the rubber (boot?) that accepts the end of the spark plug wire. Further examination also uncovered a spark plug wire that appears to be installed by a shade tree mechanic. Nothing but bare wires instead of a solid wire to plug in to the coil so it looks as if the spark was jumping across from the coil to the plug wire (as evidenced by the charred coil plastic).

Pics as follows:

IMG_20130119_221951_zps302831cc.jpg


IMG_20130119_221930_zps3e7354ed.jpg


IMG_20130119_221607_zps6a458311.jpg


IMG_20130119_221552_zpsbaeafba9.jpg
 

HighTrim

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Re: 1957 Evinrude 35hp

The plug wires need to be screwed into the coil when you reinstall.
 

lindy46

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Re: 1957 Evinrude 35hp

As long as you've got it torn down, I'd replace those plug wires with new 7mm Hypalon copper core wire. And put a dab of dielectric grease on the spike of the coil before screwing the new wire in.
 

livinfulltilt

Seaman
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Re: 1957 Evinrude 35hp

Where is a good place to find those wires? Also, do I have to make these wires or can they be bought pre-made for our OMC application? I ask because sometimes a prefab wire holds up better where the boots are. Im just worried Id buy those wires and not be able to locate the boots that allow connection to the coil.

Edit: Everything I can find about these wires shows I can order them by the foot (which is great), but I cant seem to locate anything for the coil-side boots.
 

HighTrim

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Re: 1957 Evinrude 35hp

The rubber covers come with the coil when you purchase them. Can you not resue the ones you have already?

You can buy the plug wire by the foot just about anywhere such as NAPA or the dealer. Just be sure that it is metallic core, like copper core, and not graphite auto wire.

Same goes with the spark plug boots/springs, NAPA or the dealer for a few bucks each.
 

livinfulltilt

Seaman
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Re: 1957 Evinrude 35hp

No, the original boots that connect to the coil are torn. I dont want to reuse them and risk any spark jumping to the surrounding metal components. No sense in not addressing it now, theyre questionable so I may as well take preventative measures while im in here working on it.

I think Im going to get a set of coils and a carb rebuild kit on order from Napa this afternoon... Im anxious to see if these two things will correct the performance issues with this motor.

Does anyone know where I can find a replacement tiller handle? I would really like to find an original equipment piece to replace this homemade one that came with the motor.
 

HighTrim

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10,486
Re: 1957 Evinrude 35hp

Do you need the whole handle or just the grip?

Have you posted a pic of it? I dont see it.
 

livinfulltilt

Seaman
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Messages
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Re: 1957 Evinrude 35hp

Unfortunately I need the entire handle. Give me a minute and Ill have a picture for you.
 
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