1957 Duracraft Duraflite Custom

[GA_Boater]

Re: 1957 Duracraft Duraflite Custom

JB - Was there a forest growing in the boat before you saved her? Is that where the roots came from?

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: 1957 Duracraft Duraflite Custom

No, but there's a waterline up under the bow cover @ 25% of the way up the hull, so at some point it was partially water filled. The guy I got it from probably was a rare, odd duck that attempted at least minimal cleanup before putting it on CL & didn't include pix of the flora in his ad, unlike so many....

It was @4hrs 1way to pick it up, and REQUIRED a different trailer to get it home, so I left him the JUNK vintage trailer & trimmed the price accordingly. I didn't 'know' about the root problem until I got there, but I figured I could sort it out....

 

[GA_Boater]

Re: 1957 Duracraft Duraflite Custom

Sort it out or root it out? :lol:

Good that the ice damage is limited to the pan and not more serious. Taking on these oldies can make you pull your hair out.

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: 1957 Duracraft Duraflite Custom

Sort it out or root it out? :lol:

I have an app for that:

NOT ME ^^^

Good that the ice damage is limited to the pan and not more serious. Taking on these oldies can make you pull your hair out.

Yeah, it's a new & exciting adventure around every turn..........

 

[GA_Boater]

Re: 1957 Duracraft Duraflite Custom

That root must have come from a biggun like Jason's. :watermelon:

 

[jigngrub]

Re: 1957 Duracraft Duraflite Custom

So, then back to work today.......

After I got the crew lined out & sent on their merry way, I broke out the resin & hardener and mixed up @ 12oz of Epoxy. And coated 1 side of the transom :triumphant:

Wow, until I posted that pix ^^^ I knew I'd made a mess, but didn't think it was that big a mess....

Jig, I have NO idea how you use that $5 plastic spreader for epoxy, but it didn't exactly go 'smoothly'......

Nor did clean up. Used acetone to try & clean the epoxy off the spreader, and made an even bigger mess.... Acetone dissolved the plastic...... So for the remainder of the show, I'll likely be using other means to apply epoxy......

Offending spreader:

Hey, we've made it thru the half way mark!

Have a great bottom half of the week!

I missed this post somewhere along the way.

Sorry the spreader didn't work well for you, but with 12 oz. of epoxy on that piece of plywood and as thick as you laid it down I can see where it wouldn't work so well.

I use the spreader for a very thin coat and back brush the epoxy with a chip brush after spreading, I also use mineral spirits to clean the spreader with and it doesn't melt the plastic.


As for curing the epoxy, is there any way you can hang a 500 watt halogen work light about 4 or 5' directly above your coated plywood? That should cure it in about 24 hrs.


I was just kidding about sending me your 3:1 epoxy, keep it and keep it from freezing and you'll have it to work with next summer... when it's nice and warm.

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: 1957 Duracraft Duraflite Custom

Uncured applied epoxy is no longer a concern Thanks Jig.

No, it *&(*&$#$%^ didn't cure, but it is no longer a problem....... An hour & several 60grit discs & presto, no more epoxy:

BTW: I brought mix cups to measure & mix the epoxy, and the smallest volume marked was 4oz. And I didn't use 12oz of epoxy, between the mess I made & what was left in the mix cups and stuck to the spreader, I doubt there was more then 6oz ON the transom. Back to this in a bit...

I think the failure to cure was a result of many things, namely me not listening to that little voice that asked:

is it too cool HERE to do epoxy

The other problems were the result of similar bad decisions. I had limited time & unwisely choose to proceed.

The epoxy wasn't as well warmed as I expected & seemed thick when I poured it into the measuring cups. Should have rung that 'DON'T PROCEED' bell again, but didn't.

Once mixed, the epoxy seemed to become more viscous until I poured some out onto the less then sufficiently warmed plywood transom, which also should have been a red flag.

Once I started spreading the epoxy around, it quickly became less viscous & difficult to spread thinly, so in an attempt to apply an even coat of epoxy w/ the spreader, w/ it being less spreadable then I expected, it did go on much thicker then it should have. This too should have sounded some alarms.

When a few of the screw holes needed additional epoxy to fill them, I used a syringe to draw it out of the mix cup & noticed the epoxy left in the cup was starting to skim over, so I thought it was all good to go w/ what had been applied. Mistake. How many does that make so far? Half dozen +/-?

So, what have I learned? Epoxy needs correct operating temps for all portions of the process. Resin, hardener, plywood transom, and the environment in which it's left to cure. I'll see what I can do about that over the next couple of days.

Not sure if I'll reattempt the spreader method for the initial epoxy laydown, but I will be swinging over to Gibbles Starchief thread to ask a couple questions later tonight.

I'll leave the good news for another post in a bit. Gotta run for a few.....................

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: 1957 Duracraft Duraflite Custom

So, doing a bit of internet surfing last week, I stumbled on these:
A 'new' replacement stern light

w/ glass beehive lens....

And a new to me bow light & flag pole:

The bow light is the same light, but a different flag pole then what was originally on the Duracraft.

Really happy w/ them both!

Almost, but not quite, takes the sting out of the epoxy debacle.........

 

[Trooper82]

Re: 1957 Duracraft Duraflite Custom

Nice looking hardware....and you learned me something...I noticed a similar bow light on brochures for the caraqua...I'd have never guessed it was a flag holder...good luck with the redo on the transom, sounds like you got it all figured out...

 

[lokonn]

Re: 1957 Duracraft Duraflite Custom

It is amazing how we can talk ourselves into more work. That hardware is sooooo slick!

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: 1957 Duracraft Duraflite Custom

It is amazing how we can talk ourselves into more work.

Yeah, it was embarrassing actually, given that I deal w/ applying epoxy and epoxy-like products at work on an occasional basis. Finally getting to work on a boat, instead of talking about working on a boat or helping others work on their projects, I got ahead of myself & made bad decisions. Won't be the last I suspect. If I'd had more time to work on the transom before today, I'd probably have stripped it off a few days ago.

That hardware is sooooo slick!

Yep, particularly fond of the glass beehive stern light. Now to rebuild them w/ modern wiring & lamp bases.

I have a line out to both a chromer & a powdercoater, so either of those may be an option down the road. I'd be ok w/ using them both as is, for now, but if I install them, I'll probably be hesitant to remove them later to have them 'done right' w/ new chrome..... But that's all down the road a fair bit..............

 

[Watermann]

Re: 1957 Duracraft Duraflite Custom

That's an unfortunate mishap with the expensive epoxy. On the other hand a nice score with the boat bling!

 

[GA_Boater]

Re: 1957 Duracraft Duraflite Custom

You scored some neat, vintage nav lights there, JB.

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: 1957 Duracraft Duraflite Custom

That's an unfortunate mishap with the expensive epoxy. On the other hand a nice score with the boat bling!

Meh, the epoxy probably wasn't $7 worth, probably twice that in sanding discs though.

The time loss & the DOH decisions bother me more.

On another up note, I managed to drain the bilge sludge outta the soon to depart this world, free to me fiberglass covered wooden boat. So I'll be picking it apart this week if the weather holds & I get off work before dark :facepalm: By light of day it was a dark & scary place. I DO NOT want to be rummaging around in it after dark. Ya never know what lurks there...

I did find a roughly 18" square 1/4" thick steel plate in the bottom of the boat, so there's almost $0.50 of my wasted epoxy's cost back.........:facepalm:

The Kaiser wheel should do ok on flea-bay w/ it's drum assembly.

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: 1957 Duracraft Duraflite Custom

Thanks GA

 

[dozerII]

Re: 1957 Duracraft Duraflite Custom

Hey JB, just found you thread, awesome old Duracraft, she is going to be real nice. I have never seen anything like that up here in the north, but if I ever do it will be parked in my yard. I will be following along.

 

[jigngrub]

Re: 1957 Duracraft Duraflite Custom

BTW: I brought mix cups to measure & mix the epoxy, and the smallest volume marked was 4oz. And I didn't use 12oz of epoxy, between the mess I made & what was left in the mix cups and stuck to the spreader, I doubt there was more then 6oz ON the transom. Back to this in a bit...

Uhhhhh... If you were measuring in 4 oz. increments you should've mixed up 16 oz. of epoxy. Three 4 oz. doses of resin (12 oz.) and one 4 oz. dose of hardener for a 3:1 mix and 16 oz. of mixed epoxy. Which is way too much to mix up for a transom piece, go to the Dollar Store and get a cheap set of plastic measuring cups and use the 1/4 cup (2 oz.) measure for an 8 oz. batch of epoxy.

http://www.webstaurantstore.com/rub...ogleShopping&gclid=CPLnoZ3Y8LoCFW3NOgodxVsAKQ

A 3 or 4" wide chip brush will paint that epoxy on pretty quick, pour out a small pool of epoxy and brush it around and repeat. Throw the brush away when finished for easy clean up.

Next time buy the pumps at USC when you order the epoxy, makes measuring a breeze.

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: 1957 Duracraft Duraflite Custom

I'm sorry for the confusion Jig, I am NOT using US Comp & it IS 2:1 epoxy.

Like I mentioned we use epoxy & polyphatic coatings at work. This epoxy is a line we don't typically use, but is an epoxy, rated for both sealing & gluing. As a performing dealer, I was able to buy it at my cost, which seemed a good deal at the time.

The products we usually use are dispensed from a warming/mixing machine and when applied it has a very narrow workable window, it skims over quickly, then cures over time (3-12hrs typically) and is kick started by being applied well mixed & slightly warmed. It does however, drive itself deep into the pores of porous substrates, and has an incredible high adhesion factor to anything it's applied to: glass, ceramic, metals (including aluminum) and wood. To date, we've primarily applied it to concrete, interior & exterior, and only when it's to be covered by a followup coating.

My supplier suggested this epoxy when I mentioned boat work. It's similar in chemistry to what I normally get, but doesn't have as narrow a workable window, and isn't formulated to be applied warm. It has a fairly good penetration rate and it was delivered at no charge w/ a large order for work. As a 2:1 epoxy, it 'should' be good down to 60*, or lower but the rep didn't recommend it. The epoxy, plywood, mixing containers & etc needs to be at or above that too.

Either way, I made an error in judgment & that was only compounded when I didn't heed my own advice: Listen to that voice in your head....

I'll give it another go in the next few days, I need to setup a better warming station to prep everything & a hot box to keep it warmer overnight.

I shall overcome this setback :watermelon:

Hey at least I haven't decided to cut the top off or move the batteries :faint2:

Hey JB, just found you thread, awesome old Duracraft, she is going to be real nice. I have never seen anything like that up here in the north, but if I ever do it will be parked in my yard. I will be following along.

Thanks Dozer, nice to have you hanging out in the boathouse w/ us. Lots of GREAT Canadian vintage tin too, perhaps not out your way, but I've seen a few posted @iboats before. Most are more of an open fishing boat, but still great lines & interesting detailing to the tin work.

 

[jigngrub]

Re: 1957 Duracraft Duraflite Custom

I'm sorry for the confusion Jig, I am NOT using US Comp & it IS 2:1 epoxy.

Like I mentioned we use epoxy & polyphatic coatings at work. This epoxy is a line we don't typically use, but is an epoxy, rated for both sealing & gluing. As a performing dealer, I was able to buy it at my cost, which seemed a good deal at the time.

The products we usually use are dispensed from a warming/mixing machine and when applied it has a very narrow workable window, it skims over quickly, then cures over time (3-12hrs typically) and is kick started by being applied well mixed & slightly warmed. It does however, drive itself deep into the pores of porous substrates, and has an incredible high adhesion factor to anything it's applied to: glass, ceramic, metals (including aluminum) and wood. To date, we've primarily applied it to concrete, interior & exterior, and only when it's to be covered by a followup coating.

My supplier suggested this epoxy when I mentioned boat work. It's similar in chemistry to what I normally get, but doesn't have as narrow a workable window, and isn't formulated to be applied warm. It has a fairly good penetration rate and it was delivered at no charge w/ a large order for work. As a 2:1 epoxy, it 'should' be good down to 60*, or lower but the rep didn't recommend it. The epoxy, plywood, mixing containers & etc needs to be at or above that too.

Either way, I made an error in judgment & that was only compounded when I didn't heed my own advice: Listen to that voice in your head....

I'll give it another go in the next few days, I need to setup a better warming station to prep everything & a hot box to keep it warmer overnight.

I shall overcome this setback :watermelon:

Hey at least I haven't decided to cut the top off or move the batteries :faint2:.

Ok, I knew something didn't sound right because USC epoxy doesn't skim over on top in the pot... it thickens from top to bottom and when your brush or spreader starts dragging instead gliding over the wood you know you've run out of time and have reached the end of the pot life.

You'd have to be pretty dumb to cut the top off or move the batteries, wouldn't you?:jaw:

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: 1957 Duracraft Duraflite Custom

Hey, I'm no chemist, and only know enough about this stuff to be really dangerous.....

:jaw: I didn't post many details about exactly what epoxy it is since it's not available retail. The skimming over on the surface is 'supposed' to speed the cure, reduce debris landing or sticking to the surface & help to force the curing epoxy to drive it's self into any available surface porosity. Or that's the pitch from them anyways. Since I used MDO, I'd also considered that it may have been a less impregnable surface then I'm accustomed to, but it'll stick to tempered glass, and not much porosity there. So...IDK....

Again, I'll blame operator error, wholly. And have no problem posting up the fail, in DETAIL, if it helps avoid it in the future, here or elsewhere all the better.

I spoke to the supplier again this am, and if I experience unsatisfactory results again, he'll refund the money for both gallons. It's a total mixed volume of a gallon per kit & I bought 2.

Really surprised it went sideways, some of the guys at the shop that work w/ the typical polyphatics & epoxies aren't the sharpest tool in the drawer. But most do attempt to do a good job & follow directions. Wait, maybe that's why I fit in so well here....