18' 1981 starcraft SS

[SHSU]

+1 for what MNhunter1 said

Slightly more expensive here in Houston, TX: ~$35 a board but nowhere near the $700 price you were quoted

SHSU

 

[GA_Boater]

I used the Pink Panther Foamular 150 closed cell from Owens Corning in both the 1' and 2" thickness and it worked well for me. Lowes carries their own closed cell brand. Grabbed a link to Home Depot;

https://www.homedepot.com/b/Search/...tt-insulation?Ntx=mode+matchpartialmax&NCNI-5

 

[Rikkie]

Thank you @MNhuntre1 / GA boater Shsu,is that coast guard aproved?

 

[GA_Boater]

Thank you @MNhuntre1 / GA boater Shsu,is that coast guard aproved?

I replaced crumbled and waterlogged styrofoam with pink board, so it is GA_Boater approved.

Coast Guard regs only define the end purpose of flotation, to keep a boat awash to hang onto long enough until rescued. Any durable flotation material can be used.

I added more volume-wise than original. Glued cut to fit stacked sheets to the hull behind the side panels, so it's covered.

 

[Rikkie]

GA boater that's good enough for me,thankyou so much

 

[Rikkie]

Well I am still doing test piece of sheet alum spraying,rolling and tipping none look very good so still not sure witch way to go.but I'll have to color sand either way I go as for the rivets the captain doesn't want to help so it's back to alum screws and lock nuts and 3m 520 funny how thing turn out sometimes well I'll keep you posted

 

[SHSU]

I am sure I don't need to tell you how much different rivets and bolts operate in this usage. How many rivets are you looking to replace with SS bolts?

Painting.... Thing I had to come to terms with is I would never get show room. This is also a guy that is used to a glass finish on wood working.... Realized that when its in the water only about a 1/3 is actually seen and even then, you have to be right up on the boat to notice any of the brush strokes. Even with all the care I took finish was scratched from day one in the water. Said all of that to say, do your best and keep moving forward. You will have more fun with it in the water then worrying about seeing brush strokes.

SHSU

 

[Watermann]

If you think you're going to have a professional looking paint job at home, well sorry to say you're sadly mistaken.

 

[Rikkie]

Yes I'll keep moving forward with that to mind,and I am using alum screws and alum lock nuts so I have like metal to matal,thanks for the in put on the paint I'll do the best for a home paint job more pic to come thanks again

 

[Rikkie]

Hi guys I have 10oz tube of 3m 5200do I have to use it all at one time or can I put a nail or screw in the end of tube and use at another time or is open it and use it all at that time 10oz should go along way?

 

[ShoestringMariner]

I kept mine in the shop fridge with the cap screwed on tight and it stayed usable for months. I don’t use the tapered tips, but I’d think plugging the tip would gain you similar results

 

[Watermann]

Hi guys I have 10oz tube of 3m 5200do I have to use it all at one time or can I put a nail or screw in the end of tube and use at another time or is open it and use it all at that time 10oz should go along way?

Yeah I run a rod down into the tube through the tip and tape it off to seal it with painters tape. Put it in the fridge for storage and it helps having it cold so the stuff isn't so messy and runny.

 

[Rikkie]

Thank both of you for information

 

[SHSU]

Side note: the Fast Cure version will go bad really quick (IE 24 hours). As the others have said 5200 with rod/tape and in fridge will extend life. Also remove the cone head before you insert the bolt or rod. By removing the cone and letting it harden, it was easy to pull out the 5200 that was still in it. Hope that makes sense....

SHSU

 

[Rikkie]

Here is one test pc I used for glove box door

 

[SHSU]

Here is one test pc I used for glove box door

That is a nice test piece. Looks like the driver side console.

SHSU

 

[Rikkie]

Here are some pic

 

[jbcurt00]

Rikki,
I deleted 1 of your posts as unnecesaary per your private message. Different forums work differently and definitely different then Facebook.

All we're asking is to try and have some order to to topics so they make sense to not just to help you along the way but for those trying to help as well

Keep your topics about rehab @ your different boats seperate and about working on the.boats and hulls, not the motors
Keep motor discussions in a topic about your motor work/problems and not in the boat hull topic.

Its often a good idea to type a reply and then read thru it before hitting the post button. If only to make sure its accurately describing/asking what you intended.

Last tip for now, try to avoid long paragraphs in repies, break them up so its more manageable for someone to read, understand and reply. Sort of how I split up this reply.

It helps someone whose trying to help, quickly scan a reply and decide to help. Even in these trying times, staying home and possibly surfing thru Iboats more often, our members are all volunteering their expertise and still have lots going on besides offering boat repair advice online to strangers. Make it easy for them to help.

Best of luck w your projects. Yellow hull looks well painted.

 

[SHSU]

Nice looking paint job!!!! What kind of paint you use?

SHSU

 

[Rikkie]

Hi SHSU that paint is duralux Zink like#m739 if the paint comes out like primer I'll be very happy