18' 1969 Offshore V restoration

[Bwana Don]

Re: 18' 1969 Offshore V restoration

The offshore uses heavier aluminum, slightly different hull design, and more strakes, including extenting one up the bow.

Offshore has the V5 hull. More deadrise angle, just generally a badd@&& pirate vessel of sorts. You are the envey of aluminun 18 footers my friend.

 

[bob johnson]

Re: 18' 1969 Offshore V restoration

Offshore has the V5 hull. More deadrise angle, just generally a badd@&& pirate vessel of sorts. You are the envey of aluminun 18 footers my friend.

now i am getting confused.... i had thought that the V5 hulls had the 5 keels strips... the regular hulls having one down the center and one on each side that came up close to the nose of the bow.

And the V5 hulls had two on each side! the second pair coming up short of the regular ones...

and i didnt think the V5's came out uuntil the 80's


bob

 

[Bwana Don]

Re: 18' 1969 Offshore V restoration

now i am getting confused.... i had thought that the V5 hulls had the 5 keels strips... the regular hulls having one down the center and one on each side that came up close to the nose of the bow.

And the V5 hulls had two on each side! the second pair coming up short of the regular ones...

and i didnt think the V5's came out uuntil the 80's


bob

The Offshore and American (fiberglass) hulls were designed by a famous offshore racer. My Offshore has a very pronounced V in the back. I can't wait to get it in some 5 foot waves.

Waltman B. Walters was the racer. From Formula boats. (From one of Chinewalkers posts).

 

[ctswf]

Re: 18' 1969 Offshore V restoration

For corrosion where the motor wood was mounted, do you guys usually just spray it w/ primer both side and call it a day? Once the motors mounted any corroded area will be covered. I thought about maybe a layer of roofing ice shield on the inside metal.

 

[ctswf]

Re: 18' 1969 Offshore V restoration

Also, anyone who has a post on ski locker methods, please post a link. Mine will be from scratch.

 

[bob johnson]

Re: 18' 1969 Offshore V restoration

looking at pictures of my 1982 180SS, and my 1971 21 ft islander....the OPs hull looks more like the islander, with 7 strakes above the chine like my islander. My 18 footer only has maybe 4!!

I wonder how they come up with their specs

bob

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: 18' 1969 Offshore V restoration

Primer is PRIMER for paint, so if you intend to prime the transom to protect it from corrosion, you'll need to paint it too....

You've seen the cars w/ the 6mo + rusto or primer paint jobs, where they just haven't gotten around to the full paint job, right? Rusts anyway & all that prep & primer was for nothing....... It's not the correct term for primer, but it's porous, so water will get thru the primer alone...

If you need to sand/strip down to bare aluminum to eliminate the corrosion, make sure to hit the bare aluminum w/ Zinc Chromate or Self Etching primer 1st, then the primer for your finish paint, then the final paint....... The ZC or SE isn't a substitute for primer, it's the stick to aluminum primer, so you'll want to prime after & before finish paint...

Ice shield? The 'peel & stick' rubber-like stuff that self-seals around nails?

Whatever for?

Except to make an extremely hard to remove 'tarry' mess on the inside skin of your transom. Either behind the ply or on the ply it won't really work self-sealing for the size bolts you'll use for the OB motor mount holes....

Any water that ever makes it between the shield & the aluminum won't ever dry out or make it's way out... So more corrosion.........

 

[GA_Boater]

Re: 18' 1969 Offshore V restoration

For corrosion where the motor wood was mounted, do you guys usually just spray it w/ primer both side and call it a day? Once the motors mounted any corroded area will be covered. I thought about maybe a layer of roofing ice shield on the inside metal.

For longevity you need three paint steps. And nothing else needed.

1) Zinc chromate or self-etching primer. This to condition the metal so further steps will stick. It would be less confusing if ZC and S-E were called metal conditioners.

2) Primer. This is to provide a surface or to "prime" the surface for the paint to stick.

3) Top coat paint. This is the sealing coat. Neither primer mentioned above are sealers, in fact they are very porous.

You might think of putting paint on top of the ZC or S-E primer and skip the primer, don't do it. The top coat will not stick, it's all chemistry.

If you do your paint anywhere on the boat like this you will have a durable long lasting paint job.

My couple of pennies.

 

[ctswf]

Re: 18' 1969 Offshore V restoration

thanks fellas, I guess its obvious I dont know paints. This sounds like a good seal.

I'm not sure what I'm going to do with the exterior of the hull. It had a decent paint job at one point, it's just scuffed up and chipping in only a few areas. I almost want to just leave it as is rather than F it up and have a pealing paint job in a few years. I'd probably have to sand off as much old paint as possible right? This is the one thing I thought about paying someone for, exterior has a nice gloss finish right now

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: 18' 1969 Offshore V restoration

If you think the old paint's well stuck, no need to sand it off. Clean it, scuff it & smooth any nicks & gouges, may need a little JB Weld or MarineTex for the deep ones. Prep for paint, then ZC or SE BARE aluminum, prime the whole hull (to allow even coverage by your finish paint) and paint the hull...

Since you've stripped the interior, you can flip the boat to make prepping & painting the hull easier....

Some have hung the hull from all manner of support systems to suspend the hull in mid-air, upright, for final paint.

 

[ctswf]

Re: 18' 1969 Offshore V restoration

Prep for paint, then ZC or SE BARE aluminum, prime the whole hull (to allow even coverage by your finish paint) and paint the hull...

Sorry to be redundant here, I just want to be sure.
The ZC should only be used on the bare aluminum, correct?
then prime, then paint.
If, for example I sanded down to the original 70's yellow paint layer, then no ZC right?





How do you all test your new old hulls for leaks before installing a floor?
I read people will fill it with water but that seems like a ton of weight (especially since my transom wood is removed at the moment)

 

[barato2]

Re: 18' 1969 Offshore V restoration

correct that you don't NEED the ZC unless you're down to bare metal. its purpose is to etch into the metal and promote adhesion of your topcoat. not that it will hurt if you dust already-painted areas. but if you're seeing yellow factory paint, odds are not bad that this IS ZC primer. be sure to spray the ZC on VERY lightly....you should still be able to see the surface underneath pretty well, like a "wash" coat


it IS a ton of weight, but you won't be leaving it in there for long or moving the boat around. wait til you get the trans done if it makes you feel better tho, no reason not to.

 

[ctswf]

Re: 18' 1969 Offshore V restoration

Great thanks

 

[ezmobee]

Re: 18' 1969 Offshore V restoration

Sorry to be redundant here, I just want to be sure.
The ZC should only be used on the bare aluminum, correct?
then prime, then paint.
If, for example I sanded down to the original 70's yellow paint layer, then no ZC right?

Correct.

How do you all test your new old hulls for leaks before installing a floor?
I read people will fill it with water but that seems like a ton of weight (especially since my transom wood is removed at the moment)

Don't fill it a ton, just over the chines should do it. That'll expose 85% of the rivets and seams to water.

 

[GA_Boater]

Re: 18' 1969 Offshore V restoration

You're on the right track. The ZC or S-E primer is only on the bare spots.

I don't know what paint SC used on mine, but I have not found one speck of primer under the top coat. No ZC or regular primer. Now on my Merc I see ZC where the Phantom Black is worn.

 

[ctswf]

Re: 18' 1969 Offshore V restoration

Dry fit wood. Epoxy should be delivered this week.
Bow seat wood (not pictured) is 1/2" marine ply with lids cut out from above. I'm going to close in the original side access.
Floor is 3/4 t&g, transom is marine ply.

The marine ply is really impressive stuff, so dense. If weight were not a factor for me, I may have used it on the floor too. Total increase in floor price would have been about $180 for the marine ply.

Does anyone have a good recommendation for livewell location? This will be laid out like your average offshore v or ss.

 

[classiccat]

Re: 18' 1969 Offshore V restoration

You're not wasting any time! It's looking good!

What sized livewell are you considering?

 

[ctswf]

Re: 18' 1969 Offshore V restoration

Not sure, It would be for bunker which aren't small, maybe 8 gallon tank minimum for a built in tank. Unless I find a great layout plan, I'll probably just keep a portable cooler type setup.

 

[ctswf]

Re: 18' 1969 Offshore V restoration

Im at a stand still untill the epoxy and warm temps arrive.

With gluvit inside the hull, before the floor goes down, is it appropriate to only hit the rivets and seams or are you supposed to seal the entire space below deck? Will a quart cover an 18' if you just hit the seams/rivets

Anyone have any thoughts on interlux interdeck non skid paint for the floors? It looks to be the cheapest product for non skid flooring. Has Mixed reviews about the final colors

 

[ezmobee]

Re: 18' 1969 Offshore V restoration

Just the rivets and seams. A quart JUST did my 18'. Start from the back and work your way front. I figured if I ran out, it would be higher up in the bow and now be below the waterline anyway.