16 ft Aluminum StarCraft SS Rebuild?

[E260]

That right there is called a splashwell. Looks to be well made and ready for some hole drilling action.

Thanks Watermann.
I will get it together this Friday and get some more pics I see the major part of the hard work is almost done . I can see a little light at the end of the tunnel.
Bryon

 

[SHSU]

Got a few pics of some parts, a new transom pan not really sure what its called , the rail that I plugged 23 holes in that holds the panel up , and new brackets I made to mount the rail. I cut the tab off the rail and made the brkt to fit inside it.
One pic is the old panel.
Bryon

That brkt will make for a much stronger connection then the tabs that were there before

 

[E260]

That brkt will make for a much stronger connection then the tabs that were there before

Yes it will.
The tab was already broke off when I got the boat . so the brkt made the most sense to me. Plus it will look a lot cleaner .
Bryon

 

[gm280]

Very nice replacement part. Did you form that yourself? Nice work.

 

[E260]

Very nice replacement part. Did you form that yourself? Nice work.

Thanks

Yes I formed it up at work .
We programmed it punched it formed it.
Thats one thing nice about working in a fabrication shop.
Bryon

 

[E260]

No Title

Well the splash well is in .
Took a little while to get it fitted the way I wanted it. Also the transom drains are in .
Going to start more filling and sanding in places that need it before flipping over to work on the bottom .
Bryon

 

[gm280]

Well the splash well is in .
Took a little while to get it fitted the way I wanted it. Also the transom drains are in .
Going to start more filling and sanding in places that need it before flipping over to work on the bottom .
Bryon

That is really nice work there. Your are going to have a show piece when finished. Bravo! :thumb:

 

[Watermann]

Looking really good :thumb:

It's always a nice feeling to start putting stuff back on the boat.

 

[E260]

Looking really good :thumb:

It's always a nice feeling to start putting stuff back on the boat.

Thank you for the kind words .
I have a question , any caulking i do in the splash well area or any where on the boat . should it be done before painting a or after.
Not sure if there is Paintable sealer or not . but what would be the best way ?
Thank you Bryon .

 

[Watermann]

I've painted over 5200 with great success. It's difficult to clean up I would use it before paint and on seams I use frog tape so the over smear is easy to clean up.

 

[gm280]

E260, I have another idea. Not sure how well it could work, but could be a problem solver, who knows.

How about using those aluminum brazing sticks you can find now and a propane torch to flow aluminum in the joints to seal them? Then you could use either Zinc Chromate primer or some etching type primer before priming and painting it. And then there would be no questionable caulk to worry about. Just an idea that I would probably try if it were mine. But then I try things like that just to see. :noidea:

 

[SHSU]

First, that is an AWESOME looking splashwell!!! Really nice work.

As for the 5200, not sure how you plan to apply it to your transom, if you can create a small gap between the transom and the splashwell so you can squeeze a thick bead between the two and then screw together to get squeeze out, that would give you a great seal. As for the aluminum parts, I think I would still stick with squeezing 5200 between the two pieces and then securing them together for a good seal. IMHO As Watermann has pointed out to me in my thread, its better to clean up 5200 as soon as you apply it for a nice clean look. Hope to use my grinder with wire brush to clean mine up, but then again, my just leave it...

 

[E260]

First, that is an AWESOME looking splashwell!!! Really nice work.

As for the 5200, not sure how you plan to apply it to your transom, if you can create a small gap between the transom and the splashwell so you can squeeze a thick bead between the two and then screw together to get squeeze out, that would give you a great seal. As for the aluminum parts, I think I would still stick with squeezing 5200 between the two pieces and then securing them together for a good seal. IMHO As Watermann has pointed out to me in my thread, its better to clean up 5200 as soon as you apply it for a nice clean look. Hope to use my grinder with wire brush to clean mine up, but then again, my just leave it...

Thanks .
5200 I will most likely use as I've used it before.
Why can't you use 100% silicone caulk after its painted . I'm not using it to strengthen anything just seal it .
Thanks
Bryon

 

[SHSU]

Thanks .
5200 I will most likely use as I've used it before.
Why can't you use 100% silicone caulk after its painted . I'm not using it to strengthen anything just seal it .
Thanks
Bryon

Not sure what you are referencing with the 100% silicone, but as far as sealer goes its fine if you don't want to paint it... In the end, 5200 is the preferred method for marine environment as it is designed for it. Your big box store silicone is not, check the label. IMHO

 

[Watermann]

If you use silicone on painted surfaces, it would be okay but as most of us have found it's on the way to failing as soon as you apply it. 5200 is a permanent solution, your choice there.

 

[E260]

If you use silicone on painted surfaces, it would be okay but as most of us have found it's on the way to failing as soon as you apply it. 5200 is a permanent solution, your choice there.

Thanks
5200 it is then .

 

[gm280]

Thanks
5200 it is then .

I am not certain, but some silicons use to have a very caustic smell to them and therefore seems it would effect aluminum because of that. I think the 3M 5200 is your best bet if you re not going to flow aluminum rods via a propane torch. I would try that is it were my project just to see it it worked. Yea, I am that way! :facepalm:

But as usual, it didn't happen without follow up pictures.

 

[E260]

I am not certain, but some silicons use to have a very caustic smell to them and therefore seems it would effect aluminum because of that. I think the 3M 5200 is your best bet if you re not going to flow aluminum rods via a propane torch. I would try that is it were my project just to see it it worked. Yea, I am that way! :facepalm:

But as usual, it didn't happen without follow up pictures.

Thanks GM280
I would love to try the aluminum rods. I've seen them before.
The only issue I have doing that would be if I needed to take it apart I would have a problem
Plus I still have to caulk around the transom
So I think I will tape it all off and put a nice fillet of 5200 then pull the tape off.
Thanks
Bryon

 

[SHSU]

Thanks GM280
I would love to try the aluminum rods. I've seen them before.
The only issue I have doing that would be if I needed to take it apart I would have a problem
Plus I still have to caulk around the transom
So I think I will tape it all off and put a nice fillet of 5200 then pull the tape off.
Thanks
Bryon

I tried the aluminum rods and it didn't turn out very pretty. Mind you I am sure I did something wrong, but that is me. As for removal, just need to heat it back up and you can remove it. The few spots I tried, I will be doing that to remove and use Watermann's suggestion on JB Waterweld.

 

[E260]

Well I have made more progress but, I had to get a new phone in the process , long story but had to do with fishing all night lol.
But I don't know to make my pics smaller says there too large to upload . I will keep trying to figure out so I can up load some pics.
Bryon