"0" Compression

[Bosunsmate]

Happy new Year. Since you are stripping it down today but the sun might not have come up there yet in WA you might read this before you get started, especially if you have had a few beers last night,- be sure to take a lot of photos. Dont worry about the timing set up too much. It will change quite a bit after your new set up. Its pretty easy to set timing on these as the flywheel woodruff key (dont lose that) sets the timing.
I find marking which way the stator and timing base under the flywheel go ie bow/stern is helpful and also all the wiring, although its all common knowledge to most here should you get befuddled

 

[emdsapmgr]

I'd suggest you acquire a factory service manual before you go too far. Not an aftermarket one. A must during overhaul and re-assembly. (For instance, as new pistons are reassembled back on the rods, there is a right and left rod oil hole configuration that must be adhered to- prior to assembly in the block.) Check out outboardbooks.com.

 

[Brock O]

Cheers Guys

Pretty sure I've the correct manual but don't know how to confirm ? it dose cover most models 65 jet 115hp 90deg v4, 75 - 175 60deg V4/V6 and 120-300 90deg LV4/LV6/LV8.

So pulled the motor down today, guy from machine shop had a quick look. I've order all parts today through Crowley Marine, hope they are OK. hummed and harred on the bearings for the rods, but bit the bullet and purchased with new pistons and rings for all cylinders...0.030".

One of the rods came out discoloured, big end cap was lose!! mate want's me to purchase new/second one along with head, rod didn't have any major damage as such but he's suss as its copped a flogging to have came lose, same with the head, will I lose too much comp by cleaning this up and re-using?? head photo on previous page...other is good, ill search some wrecking yards for a second rod and head but don't fancy purchasing new.

Took plenty off photo's but didn't note the oil hole in the rod end! will need to look at this in more care before new install. Reads seemed ok, concerned about the water deflectors, will need to study the bullitin as that's a big'y in the rebuild working. If you's would like any additional photo's let me know, waiting on pistons now before we take to machine shop.

 

[emdsapmgr]

I'd replace the 4 rubber water deflectors in the powerhead. Looking at your very last two pictures of the block, I can see that the water flow is being pinched off by the center rubber water diverters. Likely a cause for this block running either warm or hot. Best to do them all. Not sure just which manual you are working from. You really need a factory Bombardier manual. Usually the factory will combine crossflow V4/V6 engines in one service manual. Unlikely the factory also included the 60 degree V4/V6 loopers in the same manual, as they are very different. Ditto for the 90 degree big bore 120/140 V4 and later 200/225 V6's loopers-they are usually in yet a third separate factory service manual. Re-check what manual you are working from. .. I'd replace the rod, esp if it is blue in color-a sure sign of an overheat.

 

[Brock O]

Cheers, I've found an original service manual with the same item number from the online store but for under a 3rd of the price, so waiting delivery, Crowley has came back with these pistons needing to be ordered from Evinrude...0.020' weren't available, ill give a couple weeks if not sent ill cancel and look further, depends on the availability of these items from BRP. Keen to read up more on the water deflectors, surprised water travel's through these hoses and will be keen to pull them out and find were the input is and what it looks like ? will ring some wrecking yards Monday in oz to check on rods and a head, will need to wait till Friday to go back and do some cleaning and closer inspection of the internals.

 

[racerone]

You must accept the fact that water does not travel through those hoses !-----They guide water around in the water jacket.----------Note -----the holes in the head gasket as well as part of this circuit.

 

[emdsapmgr]

Original Bombardier factory .020 over pistons: part number 5006703. Includes the ringset. In stock.

 

[Bosunsmate]

You can shave the head down to make up for some of the lost compression and that will also mean your head is nice and flat. I do mine on a piece of glass with fine sandpaper.
Try looking up a website in the states called marine engine dot com regarding your piston unavailability issue

 

[Brock O]

Hello again.....well picked up a second hand head and rod today $140 for both so happy enough with that, head has 2 small flaws but looks good other than that.
Still no reply from purchase of piston and ring.....last comment "evinrude do not offer .020" piston set" any way, if not sent by Friday ill can piston ring set order and start again somewhere else, always the items you need first!!^&%$

Question,....Bloke at the wreckers today ask if I was putting in new rod bolts! I said I hadn't read anything on it, the manual mentions some screws of the lower crankcase head bearing but that's it, not sure which one's these are yet...4 x Phillip's heads ?....does any one here recommend to put new rod bolts in when completing over hauls?? might of been after a sale! offshore we replace flange studs after removal but these..

Also, best product / method for loosening internal water galley's of scale??

Cheers in advance

Brock

 

[Bosunsmate]

Some people say that about rod bolts, if its a motor for me i never do it i just make sure the threads are clean and I put a touch of blue locktite on them.
They are meant to stretch a little so the torque values are a little out on used ones.

I use crc and a screwdriver on scale, im sure there would be something better out there

 

[emdsapmgr]

I've always reused rod bolts as long as they are not blue from an overheat. I know that many professional shops will not re-use them. Perhaps why their rebuild charges are slightly higher. (they have to stand behind their shop's warranty.) Did a Bombardier dealer say that their factory parts warehouse was out of the 5006703 .020 over pistons/ringsets? There are plenty in stock in Beloit and Atlanta.

 

[Brock O]

Not sure were they are mate, I mentioned last night about them being in stock but no mention in there reply, there stating 3 to 5 days, so they should have arrived yesterday or will tonight. Hopefully wake to an email in the morning with the items sent.

Bolts will get re used with a little lock tight.

 

[Brock O]

Hi Guys

Piston rings and gasket set has arrived, block has been machined with every thing ready to go, so have a few question before we start assembly.

The factory manual i have is referring to inserting pistons and heads first before adding crank, to us this is ass about, we would put crank first, pistons and then heads. Is there any reason we must follow the manual on this ?

Is a Rod cap Aligning fixture 100% necessary ?

Cleaned up the lower unit, not that the power head is ready yet but hopefully not far away. Cleaning the head was time consuming due to the build up, never got any before photo's but they were bad. Machining came in at $300 for all 4. Back to the shop tomorrow, pistons are ready to go so assembly will start.

 

[racerone]

Rod bolts are dipped in oil on assembly so you get the proper tightening / torque on the bolt.------Do not use loctite !!!!!

 

[Bosunsmate]

I do head last always, makes it lighter to lift too, I cant think of any reason why it matters doing piston or crank first.

In regards to rod cap aligning fixture, i always use my fingernail and i spend ages triple checking its spot on.

New rod bolts i would put a touch of oil on, but used ones will be slightly stretched so torque values will be slightly out anyway so i just dip them in blue locktite, i reuse them on 90% of my rebuilds and lots of others do too to good effect.

 

[Bosunsmate]

Your base plate looks nice and sound, on salties that plate often corrodes especially in the water inlet, outlet areas.

I always drop the LU when doing rebuilds as i always do an impeller then too, it also means when reinstalling powerhead that you dont damaged the top of driveshaft and or lower crankshaft

 

[racerone]

Rod bolts are made using a special alloy steel.------The strength is around 180,000 PSI--------When tightened they are stretched slightly like a rubber band and that holds the assembly tight.-----When loosened they return to their original length as per " Hooke's law " of strength of materials fame.------Do not use LOCTITE when doing assembly work on the rods !!!!!!!

 

[Bosunsmate]

Rod bolts are made using a special alloy steel.------The strength is around 180,000 PSI--------When tightened they are stretched slightly like a rubber band and that holds the assembly tight.-----When loosened they return to their original length as per " Hooke's law " of strength of materials fame.------Do not use LOCTITE when doing assembly work on the rods !!!!!!!

Then why would many manuals say to replace them if they return to original specs following this "Hookes Law"?

 

[racerone]

My technical knowledge goes way beyond installing sparkplugs on an outboard.---Includes work in a powerplant where the turbines put 1,000,000 HP into the generators---------Read up on this " Hooke's Law " if you like.----Manuals always say to use new rod bolts and gaskets as that is " best practice " for a shop that must warranty the work.------I have re-used rod bolts and never install new ones and never use loctite either !!!!

 

[Bosunsmate]

My technical knowledge goes way beyond installing sparkplugs on an outboard.---Includes work in a powerplant where the turbines put 1,000,000 HP into the generators---------Read up on this " Hooke's Law " if you like.----Manuals always say to use new rod bolts and gaskets as that is " best practice " for a shop that must warranty the work.------I have re-used rod bolts and never install new ones and never use loctite either !!!!

I can understand replacing gaskets.... but if you are correct then they dont know what best practice is... i do note they always say to replace new headbolts... as they stretch permanently ... same on car engines too.

1 million hp, id like to be there for start up on that. I did a tour of France the other year, my favourite photos were of those massive cooling towers of their nuclear reactors, being nuclear free here in NZ we dont have anything like it, even our now diminishing coal plants are all cooled by river water. We are mostly hydro with a more wind coming on stream