The iboats forum moderators are excited to announce that at this time it appears the iboats forums posting pictures function is working once again. Though we cannot promise for how long, we're hoping for indefinitely.
I can tell this is probably frustrating for you so I sincerely apologize :(
but can you please answer this last question regarding this diode business?. I am confident if you show me which way it is to be installed that I can figure it out from there.
Scenario #1
Is the in-line diode supposed...
I am sure they definitely are, I am still learning though so please bear with me! It makes sense as you reference post #4, I am just a tad confused as to what terminal on the starter solenoid you are referring to as the “starter terminal”. I am only confused because it is a 4 terminal solenoid...
The original wiring to the shift switch has the white “S” wire attached to one of the front two terminals with another white wire running from the other terminal to the engine. To complete the circuit to the starter solenoid.
I do not see this diagram specifying attaching the white S wire to...
Battery was charged/load tested at Autozone and they said it tested out good.
Do you think the diode I put right before the red wire in terminal #6 could be the culprit? It was installed in line from the battery terminal of the starter solenoid that leads to the terminal block not the larger...
Sorry I did not have a diagram to work off of to reference on where to place the diode for the fix.
I did install it between the the solenoid and the terminal board, I think I just installed it in the wrong fashion since it was placed in between the small red wires on the battery terminal of...
With the key switch in the on position, at night I was working by the terminal board and bumped a wire on the power pack while doing some testing for voltages. After wiggling them around to see if I could replicate it as I head a snap sound similar to a spark jumping a gap. Eventually I...
Can someone please show me where the diode is supposed to be installed to eliminate the voltage drop to the CDI pulse pack as indicated by Joe Reeves for 1972 Model Number 100293R 100hp (with Hall Effect Sensor)??
I have spark at the ignition coil but not to the plugs in the cylinders..
The...
That’s what the factory service manual says to do if distributor cap has been removed.. I took cap off and sprayed with brake parts cleaner and wiped down each tower to remove any visible grease. Twice now they have been cleaned out. After reassembly still no spark.
Starter solenoid only shows...
@racerone
Update..
I decided to grease the towers of the distributor cap and after doing so I now have practically zero spark.. I also made some adjustments to the plastic yoke at the throttle cable as well during that time frame which may or may not have contributed to the loss of spark.. I am...
Okay so after work yesterday I decided to grab an actual spark gap tester from a local auto parts store and realized spark was only intermittent.
Per your recommendation I removed flywheel to check rotor positioning and checked sensor gap.
Sensor gap was at .030in.
Adjusted gap to spec (.028in)...
Another thing to note, manual mentioned that I should show 12V to the safety switch behind the cam.
Tested Voltage only shows .2V whether the circuit is closed and/or opened via the contact push button position against the cam.
Do you know what would cause the cylinders to not wet the plugs in the two cylinders? As I mentioned, I have visible fuel in two of the 4 cylinders and compression tests seemed good/acceptable all around..
I will check this when I get home, it looked like the key way only accepted one position though as i did have to remove the flywheel to attach the new plug wires to the distributor.
Hello everyone, I’m hoping someone knows this engine and can point me to the source of my issue. I bought a 1973 StarCraft with a 100hp 1972 model year Evinrude Starflite engine on it after my Marquis Catalina was left in shambles. [I posted on here about it and will continue down that project...
Do you think the EZ Roller trailer will provide enough structural support for me to cut out some joists and stringers? Or will the boat start to clamshell? Does anyone know? I don’t have a structure to rig with ratchet straps like someone’s picture in this thread
What is the point of the “flip”. Is it necessary to flip the boat? If so, what does this accomplish out of curiosity? Is the cradle for the interior structure or the exterior (similar to a boat lift)?
How do I know if the support is adequate?
I have extra materials from building a loft bed...