Search results

  1. kcassells

    Bought my first boat to cut, gut and rebuild from bow to stern, including engine. Killed my back and suffered the wrath of the fiberglass demons

    You may like this either for decorative or whole deck or for accent pcs. I just bought 4 rolls of this product and can't wait to install. https://www.bing.com/videos/riverview/relatedvideo?&q=installing+boat+teak+rubber+mat&&mid=F683EF66D22733C1485CF683EF66D22733C1485C&&FORM=VRDGAR
  2. kcassells

    Bought my first boat to cut, gut and rebuild from bow to stern, including engine. Killed my back and suffered the wrath of the fiberglass demons

    You will also have to upgrade all of your gauges, wire harness and possibly steering cables depending on new selection if not a Zuki.
  3. kcassells

    Low compression Suzuki OB: 105...105.... and 65

    Also you should go on our outboard website related to your outboard. Lots of great guys there just for engine help. They got me thru alot of things.
  4. kcassells

    Low compression Suzuki OB: 105...105.... and 65

    Gloom Doom is right on the money. Its toast. "depends on what the bore gauge says. however my guess bore and hone." All depends on how much $$ you want to spend to bring that ole gal back to life.
  5. kcassells

    Water tank fittings

    Simple...Teflon tape and pipe dope. Just put the pipe dope on the edges of the insert thread after Teflon tape. Minimal amount needed. No rocket science needed here. Monster tape is awesome, but any tape would work. Run tape on the fitting to the right {clockwise} so as it is screwed in then...
  6. kcassells

    Restoring 1988 19’ bayliner capri

    Yea sorry but your knee deep now.
  7. kcassells

    Restoring 1988 19’ bayliner capri

    I believe they are called "Strakes" and or "Chines" they help stiffen up the hull. I removed all the wood in mine and filled with pb/glass. No wood to rot out. Here' a description...
  8. kcassells

    Bought my first boat to cut, gut and rebuild from bow to stern, including engine. Killed my back and suffered the wrath of the fiberglass demons

    Those other areas left and right of transom and higher areas need to be removed. Save all the skins they can be used to place back. Saves a lot of glass work. Looking good. And shop/compare pricing
  9. kcassells

    1963 Montgomery Ward Sea King / Starcraft Starchief

    WoW! Very nice. Is all the wood teak? Just went back saw its cedar. Looks nice.
  10. kcassells

    Bought my first boat to cut, gut and rebuild from bow to stern, including engine. Killed my back and suffered the wrath of the fiberglass demons

    You can just move it around with your engine lift. I would if you haven't put something on the base to protect rom moisture.
  11. kcassells

    Bought my first boat to cut, gut and rebuild from bow to stern, including engine. Killed my back and suffered the wrath of the fiberglass demons

    Flashback..... then I took the deck to flush and added transom drain off holes instead of all those little water holding wells.
  12. kcassells

    Bought my first boat to cut, gut and rebuild from bow to stern, including engine. Killed my back and suffered the wrath of the fiberglass demons

    Ya...get all the structure back in under deck before flipping including transom. I think flipping that hull would be difficult, would require some serious rigging and peoples. Maybe after above put on blocks or leave on trailer and access repairs that way.
Top