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Symptoms still suggest stuff in the carb that shouldn't be there.

G1 or G2?

It's not getting to wot or it's bogging down because of prop pitch. What are your prop numbers and describe your hull.

No that is not correct....after market? It's not metric.

Tough one but 4500 is not enough....is this at full trim?

Yes. Lots of work on the test stand at home is not all that good. Nice "balls out" run on the water does wonders. Shakey but they do that...if anything is catching underneath the flywheel than that simple 4 inch round plastic bushing needs replacing. I'd run it on the lake first but before...

Have you taken it to the lake?

Your terminology sometimes gets me...so let's double check a few things. Your low idle circuit screw, how many turns out is it? When you do the link and sync....the step of when the butterfly's open, that is supposed to be at the two notches on the timer plate...some have one. You never want...

Down under humor...someone pass the salt.

Assuming your knob is all the way pushed back in before you try to accelerate... Plug the line going to your primer and see how it runs. Primer is only used for cold start. Sounds like your doing everything correctly.

Btw, all lines should have ties. Zip ties should have round bottoms not just any ties. OEM parts only and others will disagree...they have told me repeatedly lately. Factor parts are widely available and mostly affordable. Not sure why people would use anything else. Good luck.

Okay....have lots of those motors and there fairly simple. No vacuum lines, Race is correct. Fuel enrichment lines and they are pressurized when you prime the motor. (Pulling knob not squeezing the ball) That eliminates the choke. I'm guessing your idle circuit is still dirty. When the carb is...

Interesting comments, Evinrude/johnson were all designed for champion spark plugs. Everyone I know, swears by them.

Yeah, Racerone's advice is solid. Under the flywheel many wires come out...sometimes they rub on stuff and get chaffed. Also, there is a plastic bushing or wear ring per say and if that's worn, cracked or broken then that creates issues. Again, woodruff key. 1/4 20 bolts (3) and an inexpensive...

As far as the idle circuit your guessing it's ok...but, that being said...it looks more electrical. Is the timer plate wobbly under the flywheel when running? Timing light would be useful here.

Still think something is bouncing around in the low idle circuit....but what do I know. Here's the same motor and I fixed 2 weeks ago.

Yeah, plus being able to see is a high priority!

I use them for lawn trimmers, blowers, mowers and other things but for JohnnyRude outboards, there not even close for me. Sierra is acceptable too.

Amazon stuff does not work...OEM or Sierra but OEM parts are readily available for that motor. Use non-ethanol fuel and keep it clean. Pull the carb, new OEM parts...deep clean. Idle circuit is suspect here.

I run a lot of those, 100 they will run decently, 90, not so much. Might come up and like you said those compression testers all come out different. I rely mostly on one I got in the 80's but it reads the lowest of three that I have. 120 or better is where you want to be. Best guess, power...