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it is unmetered, the throttle shaft is below the boosters and the idle and transition circuits. If you are into classic cars some carbs like the Q-jet are real prone to it and very common to have to rebush the throttle plate. The rochester 2 jet like on my 65 gto the throttle plates are cast...

If you fix the flooding from the bowl you won’t see fuel on the throttle shaft. Shaft isn’t letting fuel out its dribbling down the bore and across the shaft. While after a lot of use the shaft can wear and create a vacuum leak, this is in cars with a lot of miles on them. Can almost be sure the...

Float bowl is over full and leaking over. Needle and seat , float not working or too much fuel pressure

Ight be easier to use a short section of braided hose where the nipple is. Mount your sender and switch solidly to engine or bracket. Connect to oil block via a hose to take the weight off it and allow some flex . A place like McMaster car will sell hoses as will any hydraulic shop

more flow will give a stronger vacuum signal in boosters/ venturi so would expect more fuel. Yes marine tends to run cooler and under heavier load needs richer mix to some extent. Basically vs auto application that spends a lot of time in part throttle cruise A marine is closer to wot and...

on a 4.3 or larger engine?

Yes and no. I bought a angle torque wrench when I did the timing chain on the mini a couple years back. Found out the POS didnt work right after I broke a bolt, finished the job using a sharpie on the bolt head to get the angles. you can do it that way in a pinch and I had zero issues but If I...

Here is one https://forums.iboats.com/threads/stumbling-edelbrock-1409-4-3l-v6.670697/page-2

Cant comment on sierra but they are known as a better aftermarket. Most of the time you hear OEM and Barr are the best. I have Barr on mine no issues for over 10 years in fresh water. Barr does some OEM casting for Merc and I thought edlebrock but they are not much of a savings vs OEM. Might...

yes as steel head gaskets will corrode in freshwater (rust). How long it will take ? not sure but doesnt make sense not to change gaskets if you are that far into it.

you cant really jb weld the internal valley cracks, may also be one in the bottom of the bores/ crank area generally what we have seen here is the stock truck cam is close enough to work just fine. in the old days cam manufacturers would have a class of cams called towing/RV/marine all ground...

Jasper seems hit or miss In reviews. truck engine stripped to long block swap head gaskets core plugs (some are brass or stainless already) and marine circ pump. Then swap all your accessories over, you should check your intake and exhaust for cracks. My 4.3 had roached exhaust from freez damage

No any 96 and up 8 bolt intake vortec will work. I did the same project on a 2004 sea ray the 090M block casting 4.3 uses some metric fasteners . The side motor mounts, starter, and flywheel cover bolts are M10 vs 3/8-16…just had to buy about $40 worth of bolts. shouldnt Be an issue if staying...

Agreed if a crack drill hole at each end weld from outside in. Nit sure if that is a crack or gouge from when it was rolled due to debris

I would recheck the alignment several times and rotate the coupler 90 deg 4 times to check alignment through the arc of coupler rotation. U joints can be tough to see wear with out taking the caps off. The ujoints on my Alpha gen 2 felt fine but when I resealed my drive I replaced them 1-2...

I cannot confirm from here with 100% confidence but i think so. Best way is to research your casting number to a 4.3 engine family generation. On a similar not adjustable valtrain (torque nut to set) I used poly locks to convert to adjustable due to milling the heads. This corrected a geometry...

Prob not wear just manufacturing tolerances. When you set preload on lifters normal you are compressing the lifter i Think .030-.050” so no issues as AD said.

did the old coil fail and ohm test of primary and secondary side? Spark gap test of out put? just wondering how you landed on the coil or just by how hot it was getting.

As long as the valve train geometry is the same and thus uses the same pushrod length it’s no issue.

would think as long as the chamber size is the same should work. Did the other head check out ok? would assume this is from an over heat block deck is likely not flat anymore. Edit missed the prvious post re second head is ok but still need to check mating surface on block