Search results

Yes on flywheel cover (aka bellhousing) The 470 uses a standard Chevy bolt pattern. not sure on the coupler probably best to cross check part numbers of the engine serial numbers

different dealer networks so sort of makes sense. Looks like a 3.0 of that vintage uses and o ring and splash shield set up. Same as on my 65 pontiac vs a modern viton seal...

the difference is the flywheel size and coupler style. Older engines has 2 piece rms and 12 5/8" flywheel, later are one piece RMS and 14" flyhweel. Earlier engines used a crank hub mounted coupler , later the three bolt (current) coupler that bolts to what would be pressure plate mounting...

I think you are good to go. I made my own pressure tester as well used a metal threaded fitting off an old lube pump as well, hose and a 3/4" plumbing test fitting with a scrader valve on it (amazons finest). It leaks a little. The only leak I had was the shift shaft. I would send it as well...

is that the exterior one that plugs into the upper vent screw?

will be no issue, some of the Gen 2s did not have the revesior. when I had my gen 1 years ago I would frequently check the level (upper vent) and the drain (bottom) for evidence of moisture. Just a couple times a season. Biggest issue you can run into with this set up is the drive input...

yep a cut off washing machine hose works great but just the hose end works ok , just need to tie it off so it stays there or have someone hold it

it looks like that end of the hose goes into a pipe thread x barbed fitting so no reason a pipe plug cant go in there. could also put a vacuum cap over the barb if its still in the bellhousing.

Agree with others take the cap off and look split the drive. as a sanity check maybe run the engine with drive off to verify the noise is gone with out the drive turning. can stuff a garden hose in the water port on the bellhousing to do this. One thing ujoints can be tough to diagnose by...

Hard to tell from here but my first place to start would be pull the drive and check gimbal and ujoints. Also drain drive lube and check for metal.

I think the main difference between a TB 4 and 5 is the active timing where it constantly adds advance, watching for how much rpm increase the engine responds with until it stops increasing rpm (mean Best Timing) . there is a graph in factory manual - shown in post #8 here...

not all TBV setups used a knock sensor. I dont think I have ever seen one on a 4.3 or carbed 5.0's I wouldnt be concerned at all if your total timing is correct for the engine. I dont think 4.3s use much more than 24 total degrees (maybe less) , maybe even less . With an advance light I...

With spliced connections did someone swap in a delco est ? Or it is a TB maybe spliced a differnt generation igntion module as many are no longer available

yes has to be flat . you may be able to resurface them with a belt sander, bastard file, or if you have access to machine shop they can mill them down. Alternatively if you are not is fresh water and they are of unknown age better off replacing with good OEM merc or Barr manifolds

If you want to keep the boat and the transom and stingers are good (late 90s early 2000s was when folks started using composite stringers vs wood) you cant go wrong with a new drive. Change the lube and pressure test to stay ahead of the seals and generally will last 15 + years . Even with the...

X2 get manual #14 it has all the detail for changes to the bearing stack etc I think the later ones require setting rolling torque I did mine with a low range inch lbs. Aagin get manual 14 if you have reasonable mechanical ability this will guide you 100%. Not seeing where the bearing race...

Yes, most Alpha gen 2 drives have a lube bottle in the engine compartment . im assuming due to the year you have a gen 2? via a hose it feeds the drive with lube through a poppet valve on the bellhousing. On the earlier gen one drives a leaking input shaft seal will fill the bellows with oil...

you boat would have originally come with a greaseable bearing. Somewhere around 2008 ish they started using the permalube bearing, and if installed the installer is supposed to take out the zerk fitting and replace with the plug that comes with the bearing so no one tries to grease it. So if you...

X2 on this check the mating surfaces. Some cheaper aftermarket manifolds are not flat from the factory And if they are corroded they may need replacement

before you get in too deep make sure they ordered the correct pressure pump. Airtex/Carter makes the OEM pumps so often folks get an Airtex vs paying the OEM cost. There are low (carbed engine) and high (injected) pressure pumps.