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Do I need and exact match? Will other heads work with the good head I have? Could I take both donor heads and use them? Would I need to use rocker and pushrods from the donor heads? So many questions........ Head out to get the head shortly.

Learning lots from you guys here. This is awesome. So, I'm thinking these are screw in studs and casting number 181. This is what im looking for? This is the cracked head that came off the engine I'm working on. I'm going to look at a head still on the motor and still in the boat. I have no idea...

Found a head but I have to remove it from the boat myself. Do I need to use the push rods and rockers from that head, or can I use the ones from my cracked head. Also, if I have to use the ones from the head I'm removing, do they need to go back in the same place? Ken

That one head is cracked and "garbage" to quote the Machine shop. I did find a suitable head and will be taking it to the same shop for testing.

Any chance those are casting ridges? All three intake holes on that head have those marks in the same place.

Just starboard side was missing, but the other side was pretty limp. These pics are from the port side. I'm checking starboard side now.

Here's another intake hole. Pretty sure that's a crack

Hey Guys and Gals, did I just find the smoking gun? Not sure how much water could get through that. Ken

That's what I thought. Thx

Hey, one more question, hopefully. Can I reuse those head bolts? Shop manual says I can except for Gen +. Not sure what that means. Ken

Compression test was done on a non running cold engine.

Looks like some pitting too. #2 was 130, #6 was 170, a couple 150' and a couple 160ish. Leak down did show quite a bit of valve leaking

Let me be clear, while it is easy to say "I would not work for this guy" I'm elbows deep into this Job. I have done all three bellows, gimble bearing, water and oil monitor hose and lower shift cable. Also exhaust shutters, one of which was missing. Full tune up, including plugs, wires, cap...

Hear ya!! Not my boat and he doesn't want to pay for that. Couldn't even get him to get them tested. I phoned around, and its $250 ahead to pressure test and mill and then it goes up from there to have the valve train done. I thought I would just lap the valves while I'm waiting for the gaskets...

Turns out they are completely different. I'm hearing that 1996 in boat talk is 1995. I was aware it was pre Vortec, but I thought they swished half way through the year. I have another thread going on the valve issue. Wasn't sure if I needed to start a new one or not. Ken

Thanks for that. Never a dull moment in this project. I'll pull a couple more and see what I find. Can I clean the valves and lap them with the seals in? In leak down, the valve were showing some leaking. The seals themselves really weren't that bad. Thought I'd just change them while I had the...

Hey Guys and Gals: Was going to change the seals on 1996 Mercruiser 4.3 and automotive says they discontinued. Local Merc dealer wants over $250.00 for said seals. There is a little square O ring on the top of the valve that wont let the valve go past the seal. Thinking of just taking the valve...

I'm going to do valve seals and lap the valves for him. I picked up seal for 1996 S-10, 4.3. Not a marine store purchase . Should be ok with those?

He has been runing the boat all summer. Finally died on him and wouldn't restart .due to severe neglect. Starting to think it was the missing shutter or faulty elbow gasket. Water leaking out of the elbow over night adding to oil. Not fast enough to cause hydro lock. Well he declined the head...

If he wants to "take the risk", against my advise, which I have in text, its on him.