Search results

You need to run a 50::1 gas/oil mix until you are sure the oil injection system is working. I would test for spark first, as that is the easiest. Check for a kill lanyard, as most controls have a switch/lanyard combo. If the switch is off, spark is killed. A compression test would be next...

Nah, good old HI.

Outboards as usually frame ground (or earth). That means the rectifier or VR will have the negative side of the battery and rectifier grounded. On Merc rectifiers, the negative side of the diode bridge is internally connected to the metal of the rectifier and when the rectifier is bolted to...

You can buy a new rectifier for a few dollars that has much more capacity then the OEM one. i.e. you can get a 25A rectifier that the engine cannot fry. Take a look on Amazon for such an item.

I do not believe that a stator will be damaged, if not connected to the VR or some load. In that case the stator is an open circuit, and no electricity will flow. If the stator is grounded, current will flow. I do not know if this would damage a stator, and I think it would not. Remember...

My neighbor repowered his 225HP 4 cycle Mercs with the equivalent Tohatsu model. He was under the impression that Tohatsu made those 225HP motors for Merc, for cheaper than the Merc model. Any G2 on that?

Let's clear up misconceptions. Non-permanent magnet alternators are used in engines because they charge more at low RPM, when compared to generators. However, they require some back voltage to energize (excite) the rotor, to produce any electricity. They produce AC voltage with the...

Gee, I have been using a hand impact driver to tighten and loosen gearcase screws since the 70's. I never had a screw loosen up and fall out, nor have I had one that would not come out.

OMC made their reputation in the 60s-90s. They made great motors. The big twin was one of those in HP from 6 to 40. They introduced new 2 cycle HPDI tech which failed. They paid the price. Run your motor until it will not run.

Gee, pull all the spark plugs and put a strap wrench around the crank pully and see if she will rotate smoothly.

That is very strange. Years ago, I had a big block Ford (429 CID). When she was hot, and you immediately tried to restart her, she would resist turning over. I melted all the insulation off the battery cable trying to restart her. The starter was fine, but I had to tape up the battery cable...

You do not start the engine to circulate the antifreeze. You pull all the plugs, which is 4 or 6 on a V engine. Probe/poke the drains and let all the water drain. Now add some A-F to the block, via the large hose on the waterpump. When you see it emerge from a drain, put in the plug and...

I would remove the filter and empty it. Now reinstall it and add the correct amount of new motor oil. The residual gear lube should not affect it much. Remember STP, motor honey and other motor oil additives are simply thicker oil, as is gear lube. Now diagnose the real problem.

Both female and male ends of the connectors should be the same shape. It sounds like yours are not. What is the layout of the connections? On my '77 the ground and power spade connections were vertical. The tach signal spade connection was horizontal.

Check Eastern Marine in Delaware. They have a good selection of trailer hardware.

That is normal behavior for the tach.

The slave solenoid battery post is often used as a junction for all wires carrying a continuous +12VDC power. So if you have any wires that are unconnected, see if they belong there.

There is no bench test for a voltage regulator that I know of. You could feed it 16VAC and see what it puts out. It should try to put out about 14VDC Let's see, your furnace thermostat runs on 16VAC, so cannibalize your heating system and go from there.

yes, but OP said no AC voltage on the yellow wires, when the engine was running, but DC voltage there? That is not the way it should work. If there really was DC voltage on the yellow wires, the stator would be an electromagnet and discharge the battery.

I do not think you should have gotten any DC voltage on the yellow wires. The rectifier in the VR would have prevented that. You might check your voltmeter dc scale on a known DC source, like the battery.