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I have a couple friends who have them and they are big fans. One of the guys even bought a kit to adapt a pedal-powered bike into an e-bike with pedal assist. Those things can haul! Perfect for the short trips you mentioned.

I haven't noticed the slowness for the last couple of days. It seems to be back to normal.

Just know that the transom has to be REALLY bad to show flex when putting weight on the outdrive. My transom was substantially rotted and showed no flex at all.

I agree with @alldodge . I don't know that a dentist pick would get through the fiberglass layer. It also wouldn't show if the wood fibers were light colorred and dry vs. wet and dark, like the drill test would.

Should be the same. In fact, when I cut the keyhole for my new transom, I used a template for the Volvo Penta SX and it worked perfectly.

My boat had water intrusion from swim ladder bolts that were below the waterline but were not properly sealed. Four holes - maybe 5/16" each. The entire starboard side of my transom was rotted and water migrated to the deck thru the wood fibers and rotted much of the deck on the starboard side...

That's not the problem. It's happening on different computers and on an ipad.

Is it just me, or are there problems with the forums? Everything is either very slow to load or it just won’t load at all.

Lots of good answers. I would add that it's a good idea to get things apart before you start ordering supplies. It's often cheaper to order in bulk and you need to know exactly what you'll be replacing. And don't skimp on the personal protective equipment (PPE); fiberglass and resin in your...

'91 Bayliner. I'd run from it.

This stuff works on pretty much everything (that I've tried, anyway):

Sure looks structural to me... I'd replace it.

I’d install the new gimbal bearing first, then check alignment.

I'd swap it out for High Performance Gear Lube. Your stuff is probably OK, but I don’t think it’s worth risking your outdrive to save a few bucks.

We beach quite often and I put on one that a bit longer than recommended, so I'd agree with @Scott Danforth in post #4. The keelguard does a great job of protecting against sand scuffs. Even better, we hit a rock ledge at our lake in Ontario (water was unusually low last year) at slow speed...

In Illinois, you have to have the plug removed and the bilge drained, ostensibly to minimize the chance of transporting invasive species (e.g., zebra mussels) from one waterway to another. I believe that would include livewells and other types of holding tanks that empty into the waterways...

PT lumber (and PT plywood) that we get is always wet and is always 2nd or 3rd grade lumber. I can do much better with exterior-grade plywood for boat work. I would never use PT stuff with fiberglass.

I would add that I’ve always used the stainless model, not the chrome-plated one.

I like 'em. I have them on my trailer and I've not had problems with them at all. I still do maintenance on the bearings regularly, but I like the idea of the grease being somewhat under pressure to reduce the chance of water infiltration.

Agree with you! I would not use treated lumber. It's just asking for adhesion problems.