Yeeeesss I read that part
You decided that I'm going to watch my gauge and if it changes I'm shutting my motor down no matter where I'm at. So you didn't need to be towed or half to paddle back 100 yards to 5 miles, you win
It's hard to say without more testing.
Your motors are pretty solid runners. It's running hotter and your seeing signs of it, so there is a problem, finding it will be the issue. A compression test should provide most insight but it's not easy to do with a diesel
Does that motor need more or...
The dice were rolled and you won
So after all this time it shows that the pump housing and wear plates are really worn. So your rolling the dice again with parts that need to be replaced IMO
Good luck
Looks like your talking more about the Johnson motor than the boat, I'll move if that is the case.
New to you boat with overheating issues, yes replace the impeller and see if that solves that problem
Yes, but this issue has not been looked at by dealer yet. I'm really thinking all along it was caused by what was installed trying to get VV to fully power down. VV wasn't powering down because Chap didn't rig the boat correctly
Also found out you don't need the special tool to remove or install the ALT belt. 8M0146862 ($55 to $70)
Just cut the belt to remove, and hold the belt with one hand while you rotate the motor using breaker bar. You DO need the special tool to rotate the motor. 8M146861 ($72 to $85)
Oh, and when throttles are placed in gear the first time I get still get the 2 beeps. Note; this was a recall which the dealer accomplished last year. Only get it the first time and doesn't matter if it's FWD/REV.
I say 2 beeps but it's actually 1 beep from each motor, Mercury Tech said there...
Moved the ground cable to the top bolt as the bulletin mentioned, also replaced the ALT belts on both. Started after each one was done, slight change readings but still 2 beeps
Vessel view shows 14.4V and voltage reading at ALT and on main connection show 14.3V. Simrad went from 13.9 prior to...
You need to get the motor scanned
The FP can be hot wired and it not effect the ECM, just remove the FP relay and place a jumper between pins 30 and 87. The FP will run as soon as the jumper is installed
Wiring
You said
Which should go to "Pos" side of coil
Orange should not come from the Key, the (B) connection should be Red/White
As Bt Doctur mentioned in post 9, you should have more than 1 wire on the Alternator and a diode maybe shorted and back feeding. Look close at the ALT and how many wires...
Your old manifolds will work with vortec or non-vortec, no issues
The heads are what make a motor vortec. Newer blocks can have some added advantages but not enough that would change to get a newer block
If you find a good truck motor with low mileage that would be best, but even a higher...
Since it's same time I think something is shutting the pump off (ground from ECM to FP relay, or fuel pump relay. Could hot wire the relay or fuel pump. A ground to the ECM side of the relay or go direct to FP by removing relay and connect direct to contact
The oil pressure switch has nothing...
Since it's same time I think something is shutting the pump off (ground from ECM to FP relay, or fuel pump relay. Could hot wire the relay or fuel pump. A ground to the ECM side of the relay or go direct to FP by removing relay and connect direct to contact
It should work but over time things still change. If your gauge sender was adjusted to show empty a little before it was kind of gives you a reserve sort of thing
