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  1. K

    Sacrificial Aluminum Prop

    Recently had a chance to compare some performance data (F3 SS vs F5 Alum) DuoProps on my 26' 7000lb cruiser. To recap - My 5.7GXi DP-SM 1.95 has F3 SS props. I found a reconditioned set of D5 Aluminum on MarketPlace for $300. While VP does not recommend a D5 aluminum for my GXi (only 280 hp GSi...
  2. K

    New to Volvo family

    My steering gets "loose" occasionally - lots of free-play or dead-band around center. From my reading (mostly internet blather) I've concluded that these hydraulic marinized power steering systems tend to get air in the hydraulic lines. Easy enough to fix - at slow/idle speeds just do a series...
  3. K

    Knock Sensor

    One picture is worth a 1000 words - Yep, that's the fitting - very helpful. However, on my installation the knock sensor and plug were reversed. There is an engine mount or wire bundle that prevents the orientation as shown ... so, they stuck the sensor on the end and the plug at the 90-degree...
  4. K

    Knock Sensor

    I've got a 5.7GXi-A. The knock sensor screws into a brass fitting (a tee) that extends from the block drain on the starboard side. The sensor screws into the tee such that it is parallel with the block. The 90-degree part of the tee is just a threaded plug that allows the block to be drained...
  5. K

    Sacrificial Aluminum Prop

    Considering that I don't have that much invested in the aluminum props, I'll give the D5 a try carefully watching for signs that I might be overloading the engine. If things don't work out as I hope, I guess I could have them re-pitched? I understand that it is acceptable to re-pitch up to +/-...
  6. K

    Sacrificial Aluminum Prop

    Help me understand in technical and quantifiable terms how to identify when my engine is "lugging". If I'm going up a hill in my manual transmission car and I hear pinging/knocking, I know my engine is lugging and I need to down-shift. A little different in a boat. In my boat I can monitor...
  7. K

    Sacrificial Aluminum Prop

    Got a smokin' deal on a reconditioned set of D5 (Aluminum) duoprops for my VP 5.7GXi/1:1.95 firmly attached to my 6500lb cruiser. Current prop is F3 (Stainless). I have no issues with the performance of the F3 - snappy to get on plane, tops out at 40+ mph and cruises comfortably at 20-25 @...
  8. K

    Bellows Water Detector - Retrofit?

    I'll get some pics when I can. Here's the story on my boat - bellows and gimbal bearing last changed in 2011 @ 200 hrs. From 2011 to 2018 accumulated another 100 hrs (15 hrs per year!). The boat was only used on Lake Powell - 4-5 month seasons. When not at Powell, she was on a trailer in the...
  9. K

    Bellows Water Detector - Retrofit?

    I'm pretty handy mechanically but I've never pulled the drive. It's my first I/O and I've only owned it for one season - it worked great and don't suspect any issues. My local VP shop said to expect $2000 to $2500 to pull the drive and replace gimbal bearing and bellows. Of course, if I ask...
  10. K

    Bellows Water Detector - Retrofit?

    Great Scott! Your wisdom is on full display here. I watched this Ted's Marine video that shows the WIB sensor buried on the transom assembly of the OceanX drives ... it's a nightmare if that thing ever fails and needs to be replaced. I will up my game when it comes to regular, external...
  11. K

    Bellows Water Detector - Retrofit?

    Found this exploded view of the WIB (Water In Bellows) sensor (#16) for the VP DPS-B/Ocean X/OXI drives. Seems like a good idea to me.
  12. K

    Bellows Water Detector - Retrofit?

    AFAIK - the only way to inspect my bellows (VP DPS-M drive) is to remove the drive and visually inspect. I understand many/most latest generation of I/Os have water detectors in the bellows to alert the operator of water intrusion in the bellows - a brilliant idea! When is somebody going to...
  13. K

    Aluminum DuoProps?

    As every boat owner knows, "to remove cash from your wallet" is why we are boat owners. So, can I assume that is an endorsement for those emergency/spare duo-props?
  14. K

    Aluminum DuoProps?

    More confusion for me - I see multiple online sellers offering an emergency/spare duo-prop for a DPS-M drive. The part number no longer seems to exist - went extinct about 15 years ago according to some old posts I found. It is clear to me that this is not your typical D-type aluminum...
  15. K

    Aluminum DuoProps?

    Based on that information and further internet searches I came up with these F (SS) and D (Alum) part number references - Even found a "composite" X series that might work for a spare. Looks like the SS is the preferred (and most expensive). Never heard of the composite X series. Don't know...
  16. K

    Aluminum DuoProps?

    I've got a 5.7GXi with DP-SM drive with F3 stainless steel props. I understand somebody made (still makes?) an aluminum version that is intended to be a 'stand-by' prop that comes with speed restrictions. This seems to be a good idea for a spare just to get you home when you find that special...
  17. K

    12/24 wiring question

    Looks like the guys at Charge Pro have addressed my concern and designed their unit to handle the 24V trolling motor battery. Follow their wiring diagrams and you should have nice set-up. When you plug it in for the first time just be particularly vigilant for any funny noises, hot wires or...
  18. K

    12/24 wiring question

    I see that the Guest Charge Pro 5|5 is a 2-channel, 12V or 24V charger - not sure how you select the voltage. How do you have it set up? I wouldn't assume the your charger "sees" a two 12V cells the way your diagram is drawn. Wiring the 12V batteries in series effectively give you a 24V...
  19. K

    12/24 wiring question

    Since your max no-fault load is 56A (per your trolling motor's spec) get a 60A fuse/circuit breaker and place it as close as practical to the battery. THEN size your wire. Remember that the fuse/breaker "protects" the wire, not the motor. In addition to max load, there are lots of other...
  20. K

    12/24 wiring question

    I've noodled this scenario as well. If you do a series connection to make a 24V cell, just be careful to isolate that 24V cell from your other 12V accessories and charger. This begins to "smell" like a dedicated 24V trolling motor battery as your #3 battery - separate from your existing 4-way...
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