Bellows Water Detector - Retrofit?

[Kosmofreeze]

AFAIK - the only way to inspect my bellows (VP DPS-M drive) is to remove the drive and visually inspect. I understand many/most latest generation of I/Os have water detectors in the bellows to alert the operator of water intrusion in the bellows - a brilliant idea! When is somebody going to invent a retrofit water detector for the older boats? ... maybe somebody already has?

 

[Scott06]

AFAIK - the only way to inspect my bellows (VP DPS-M drive) is to remove the drive and visually inspect. I understand many/most latest generation of I/Os have water detectors in the bellows to alert the operator of water intrusion in the bellows - a brilliant idea! When is somebody going to invent a retrofit water detector for the older boats? ... maybe somebody already has?

Never heard of this as an oem install or retrofit.

I dont think you have to remove the drive to inspect. yes you cannot see if there is water in there without removing the drive, I inspect my Mercruiser bellows in both the spring and the fall. Generally you see them getting harder, chaffed and or getting small checking or cracks long before they tear. Mine got a rubbing on the sides from chaffing the gimbal ring before ever leaking. I watched it for a year or two then premtively replaced my bellows with OEM parts. The originals were 18 years old and never leaked.

Know what they look like and watch them closely you can stay ahead of it.

 

[Kosmofreeze]

Found this exploded view of the WIB (Water In Bellows) sensor (#16) for the VP DPS-B/Ocean X/OXI drives. Seems like a good idea to me.

 

[Scott06]

Found this exploded view of the WIB (Water In Bellows) sensor (#16) for the VP DPS-B/Ocean X/OXI drives. Seems like a good idea to me.View attachment 394927

Those drives are geared towards a different market than the land of 10,000 lakes- salt water environments where the boat doesn’t get pulled much. Looks like a conductivity sensor in the transom housing. Probably a good idea until the sensor fails and you pull the drive Because of it.

https://boattest.com/engine-review/Volvo-Penta/320016_OceanX

If you are in fresh water and pull your boat for inspection fairly regularly it’s over kill.

 

[Scott Danforth]

The ocean x drives were not a good design . Lots of corrosion issues

Plus you still have to pull the drive every year for the annual alignment check and u-joints inspection

 

[Kosmofreeze]

Great Scott! Your wisdom is on full display here. I watched this Ted's Marine video that shows the WIB sensor buried on the transom assembly of the OceanX drives ... it's a nightmare if that thing ever fails and needs to be replaced. I will up my game when it comes to regular, external, visual inspections of my bellows.

Another good idea shot to hell!

 

[Scott06]

Great Scott! Your wisdom is on full display here. I watched this Ted's Marine video that shows the WIB sensor buried on the transom assembly of the OceanX drives ... it's a nightmare if that thing ever fails and needs to be replaced. I will up my game when it comes to regular, external, visual inspections of my bellows.

Another good idea shot to hell!

It makes sense for the application if you ignore all the corrosion BS they had. If you had a large boat that costs a grand to pull makes sense. If yo are a fresh water boater who keeps it on a lift, get down on your hands an knees and keep an eye on it. I am surprised VP took that long to get a drive oil level sensor. The Mercs have a bottle inside with low level sensor. I picked up a fishing line on my prop last summer, saw the level drop and inch and went looking for issues.

In the beverage industry we use similar sensors to detect the presence of liquid in pipe , tank overfill level etc . They require maintenance and replacement.

 

[airshot]

So the drive needs pulled not that hard....pulled mine off every fall in prep for winter storage. Had the opportunity to check everything over, lube, change lower unit etc. When spring came, install and ready for the water in less than an hour. Didn' t see it being a big deal...

 

[Kosmofreeze]

So the drive needs pulled not that hard....pulled mine off every fall in prep for winter storage. Had the opportunity to check everything over, lube, change lower unit etc. When spring came, install and ready for the water in less than an hour. Didn' t see it being a big deal...

I'm pretty handy mechanically but I've never pulled the drive. It's my first I/O and I've only owned it for one season - it worked great and don't suspect any issues. My local VP shop said to expect $2000 to $2500 to pull the drive and replace gimbal bearing and bellows. Of course, if I ask them to pull the drive just to inspect ... "While it is off, might as well replace everything." ... a valid argument.

I'm going to Cowboy-up, get an alignment tool and slide hammer, watch some YouTube videos and pull that sucker off ... just haven't decided when.

I bet I can get one more season out of it! (Famous last words?)

 

[alldodge]

Bought a Brand new Rinker in 1994, sold it last year and never had to replace the gimbal. So 29 years with same bearing, but note it was one that I could grease (not sealed). Drive came off every year to inspect and change lube

I did change the boots in 2016 and they were still in pretty good condition. I always keep the drive full down when in storage to keep from stressing the boots

 

[Scott06]

Of course, if I ask them to pull the drive just to inspect ... "While it is off, might as well replace everything." ... a valid argument.

I bet I can get one more season out of it! (Famous last words?)

While it is off is not a valid argument with regards to pulling the drive as it is less than half hour of work once you know what you are doing.

Can you get a season out of it ? Post pics of what it looks like, maybe maybe not. Did they recommend replacement or do you know when this was last done.

 

[Scott06]

Bought a Brand new Rinker in 1994, sold it last year and never had to replace the gimbal. So 29 years with same bearing, but note it was one that I could grease (not sealed). Drive came off every year to inspect and change lube

I did change the boots in 2016 and they were still in pretty good condition. I always keep the drive full down when in storage to keep from stressing the boots

exactly my experience. 2004 Alpha Drive fresh water use. Did the bellows in 2022 and the ujoint and shift bellows were not leaking yet. Exhaust bellows tore in 2020. Also kept my original greaseable gimbal bearing.

I just did my non greaseable u-joints this winter they had some wear- felt smooth but I would get a shudder when trimming in under load. Wear on one or two sides of the cross on each. Some of the grease looked good, some not so good, never any water in bellows, doesn't make the case for non greaseable u joints

 

[Lou C]

I check the bellows every season when I pull the drive, what I have learned is that you will see small cracks forming in the folds, way before it fails, if you replace it then, you are unlikely to ever have a problem. I saw that on one that was installed in 2005, by 2016 and replaced it then. That bellows, still looks like new. Will replace as soon as I see cracks in the folds.
If you're going to be doing this on a regular basis, and are older than a certain age, or have back problems, I strongly advise spending the cash on a drive jack, it will make this job much less difficult.
Getting it off is easy (usually) but getting it back on well it can fight you till you learn the tricks.

 

[airshot]

If you have the right tools and nake a good setup ( home made in my case) it only takes a half hour to pull the drive. Gimbal bearing is easy to check by hand once drive is removed. If your mechanic tells you to spend 2500 bucks just because you have it off....you need to find another mechanic !! Getting the drive back on can be tricky, but very doable. My bellows lasted 10 years then I sold the boat, but belows was still nice. How you store your boat will have a direct effect on how long the bellows lasts.... I was 70 when I last installed my merc outdrive.

 

[alldodge]

I was 70 when I last installed my merc outdrive.

Big thumbs up
I'm in my mid 60's and after propping my B3 maybe 1 inch off floor and chipped the drive, I spent 2K on a Yardarm drive jack. Used that one year and sold the I/O's

I now have OB's and don't really need it anymore, but hey I'll figure something else to do with it

 

[Kosmofreeze]

While it is off is not a valid argument with regards to pulling the drive as it is less than half hour of work once you know what you are doing.

Can you get a season out of it ? Post pics of what it looks like, maybe maybe not. Did they recommend replacement or do you know when this was last done.

I'll get some pics when I can. Here's the story on my boat - bellows and gimbal bearing last changed in 2011 @ 200 hrs. From 2011 to 2018 accumulated another 100 hrs (15 hrs per year!). The boat was only used on Lake Powell - 4-5 month seasons. When not at Powell, she was on a trailer in the high/dry desert of Wyoming in a heated toy shed. From 2019 to 2022, she was started on muffs once or twice a year while on the trailer long enough to bring the engine up to temperature. She never saw water again until I brought it to Lake Superior in May 2023. The boat is in pristine condition - all systems ops check OK. I put 30 glitch-free hours on it in 2023. Total time on the 5.7 GXi is about 330 hrs. Total time since bearing and bellows - approx 130.

The wisdom and experience on this thread is appreciated. I'm anxious to apply what I've learned here on my next "inspection". It's got a grease zerk, so there's that.

 

[Stinnett21]

The bellows on my A1G2 were last replaced in 2007 and 900 hours ago. The exhaust bellows has now given up the ghost. I removed it to inspect the driveshaft bellows. Still looks good to me. I don't see any cracks. I replaced the exhaust bellows with the tube. Always trailered and 100% freshwater use. Always stored in down position. The tube should allow much easier inspection of the driveshaft bellows.

 

[airshot]

Sitting in the water ( moored) exposed to the sun, stored tilted up are all things that will shorten a bellows life. Mine was stored on a trailer tilted down ( no stress) in a barn out of the sun, in fresh water only, so I got the maximum life from my bellows. I also only used Merc products, never aftermarket stuff. 10 years of service was easy. Neighbor kept his boat moored all summer and had his drive up all winter in storage outside. His bellows lasted 5 years at best.. So...lots of things that can effect the life of a bellows.