1966 MFG Rebuild

demarko210

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jan 2, 2015
Messages
516
Motor appears to be a 77 model.-----If you get this boat , it will likely need some work under the floor.-----Looks simpler than many fancy boats.
Purchase yesterday 700. That plan is to gut it and build it up for crabbing and long distance hauls out to Ocean city or Cape Charles. Motor seem to be way to big for the boat its a 115 evenrude. Didnt not plan on fixing the motor. I think the max this hull should have is about 70hp.
 
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roffey

Commander
Joined
Nov 22, 2012
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2,191
its a nice looking boat and such a shame it was left to the elements. Trolling motor, fish finder looks to have been a nice setup..
 

demarko210

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Joined
Jan 2, 2015
Messages
516
Opened it up this past weekend. Got the transom out and to my surprise the stringers solid hollow glass .25 inch thick. Boat was completely dry. Some foam is wet along the keel which is coming out as I need to do a hull repair. Less work I need to do. I will need to go up the side of the boat with at least 2 layer of 1708 and make some new gunnels. I plan to add a section of foam along the sides boxed in glassed to the floor as a knee for the gunnels.

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demarko210

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jan 2, 2015
Messages
516
Looks like a nice boat, Good luck, can't wait to see it completed.
Thanks I will probably ask the site admin to move this thread to the hull repair section. Unfortunately I did remove the stringers. The boat was dry but I had an hole in the hull that I wanted to do from both sides. Since I had the deck up and was planning to do the rebuild I went on and pull them up.
The stringers was a complete piece that was glued to the floor like a cap. I could have just cut where the hole was and did the repair but I wanted to redo this boat anyways.
Deciding if I should put some bulk heads in as I want to section out where I will put back the expansion foam to run along side the stringers and down the sides of the gunnels when I fix the top cap. I will connect the cap to the floor and foam or the bulkheads will run ribs up the side of the gunnels to add some strength to the sides still have not decided.
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demarko210

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jan 2, 2015
Messages
516
I was thinking about cutting the transom off as it looks slightly warped. I test fit my plywood inside and now see that it will be hard to get a bond in the bottom section on the port side. Might have to build up that section or cut it out and do a new outer skin. This was my thought last week.
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I went over Sunday to get another look and realized the inside of the outer skin has some sort of material on it maybe thicken resin with cabosil as its all white and looks like porcelain full of cracks and pits. Makes a cracking noise when I move the skin. I pulled out the grinder and 36 grit (i dont play) and went back to work. Grinded it down until I seen the threads of the glass. Took forever on this little transom and 8 disc. All the cracking noise is gone now that I am down to the glass.
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I will go over it again with some 80 grit before I start to add a layer of 1708
 

demarko210

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jan 2, 2015
Messages
516
You want to build and bond your transom wood together before installing in place. Then can use a few different items as listed
https://forums.iboats.com/threads/w...ogether-a-transom-wood-glue-or-expoxy.664765/
My first boat I used TB3 to glue the 3 layer of 1/2 in plywood, worked well. Dang thing was heavy as hell. Advice I got from this forum. I have not decided if I will sandwich it with TB3 or CSM. Likely I will use CSM as I never done it with CSM and was advised later I should have used CSM to bond the layers. Also have an unopen 15 yard roll of 1.5 CSM and about 10 yards of 1708 that was left over from the build.

I wanted to add some thickness to the to the inner part of the skin but I suppose that is unnecessary since it will have a wood core. I can add a layer from the outside after the wood is installed since I will be sanding it down anyway. This will leave me those thicken fiberglass rivets when I mash the wood to the skin if I leave those holes as is for now.
 
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