Replacing all of the bellows for my outdrive.

[glennj3]

I am sure there must me lots of resources available to learn how to replace all of these but not sure where to look.
I think I need to remove the outdrive, then start removing the section that the outdrive mounts to?

 

[Alumarine]

Do you mean bellows?
You can find some info here.
http://forums.iboats.com/forum/engi...es-outdrives/295720-adults-only-no-exceptions

 

[achris]

The very first thing you should be doing is getting your hands on a factory workshop manual. That means Merc, not seloc or clymer.

Chris.....

 

[glennj3]

Getting the factory manual would help me immensely! Yes Bellows!

 

[achris]

Getting the factory manual would help me immensely! Yes Bellows!

Then THIS should help you.

 

[tpenfield]

Yup, factory service manual and a bunch of youtube videos should be all that you need. I did this stuff last year for the first time . . . not as bad as it seems. You will need the special tools though, so make sure you order those as well as the parts.

 

[stonyloam]

Something to consider, spend the bucks for a OEM Mercruiser driveshaft bellows. Make sure your shift cable is in good shape, now is a good time to change it if needed. Take a look at your exhaust bellows, if they are in decent shape save some money by reusing it.

 

[jorgeoliva]

I did it my self you tube has lots of great video to check out

 

[glennj3]

Thank you all, thank you AChris for the information also. Difficult to locate anything regarding just how to replace the bellows though I should be able to figure it out. I thought there were only two bellows, one drive shaft and one shift cable. Exhaust bellows are on the inside of the compartment I believe and there is only one.
I have creamy oil oozing from a crack in the drive shaft below.

 

[achris]

......I have creamy oil oozing from a crack in the drive shaft bellows.

That would indicate a fairly heavy ingress of water. Plan on replacing gimbal bearing, both Uni joints and probably the drive front seal too. Likely that seal surface will need a speedi-sleeve also.

Chris......

 

[glennj3]

For clarification, the oily water is oozing from the gimbal bearing bellows (has a crack in it) this is coming from running on a water hose muff.
What is the front drive seal? Speedi-sleeve ?
Thanks,

 

[achris]

The large bellows you're calling the gimbal bearing bellows also has the uni joints and drive yoke in it. If there is water in there (and there is if you see 'oily water' oozing out), then everything in there is rusted and water contaminated. Hence, needs to be replaced or repaired.

Front seal in the drive is the seal behind the yoke. Once you remove the drive, you'll see that area. Speedi-sleeve - thin stainless steel sleeve used to 'repair' the damaged seal surface of a shaft. (google it)

 

[glennj3]

I have a spare outdrive, and I have had the one on the boat off several times, though it has been a while so I know what to look for. Will this speedi-sleeve just slide on or will there need to be some machining work needed? How do I order this?
Also, I don't believe water has been in there but a couple of weeks so I may be OK but I will give it a good look.

 

[glennj3]

Going to get my parts and hope to barrow some special tools also. The good news is all looks good inside (excluding the oil & water). The gimbal bearing is shiny smooth and turns freely. It has very little time on it. The U joins look to need grease only and all cleaned up.

 

[achris]

If water comes out of the gimbal bearing when you grease it, it will need to be replaced. Same with the unis. I am yet to see a gimbal bearing or unis that has survived after being wet, even for only a few days. They may turn freely now, but in a few weeks the water that was in them will have already done the damage, and the surfaces will start to rust. Once that happens the bearing is finished.

Chris...

 

[glennj3]

Thanks Chris, I will shoot some grease into it and look for watery oil. I will carry the outdrive to the shop tomorrow for a pressure test. If it needs a new seal, my mechanic will let me replace it while there (with his assistance) !

 

[glennj3]

Progressing slowly. Had to order the special hinge pin tool, it wont be here until Monday. In the mean time I continue to clean the boat, put the first two coats of Polyurethane on the new wood anchor pulpit, and work on the outdrive.
The lower portion is good to go, good pressure tests. The upper leaked even after replacing the seal behind the yoke. Had to order a new bearing and race and all new seals. Hope to get them all on tomorrow. Seems the yoke did not fit in well,(too tight) would not turn freely. Was a little jerky. Plan to add another spacer and see if that helps with that issue.

 

[glennj3]

Wanted to give you a progress report. I replaced the bearing and race (if I don't ID the locations properly, I apologize) on the top of the outdrive, replaced both seals at the bottom of the upper outdrive. Replaced the seal to the Yoke. The yoke seal area was worn but I had a spare sitting around, it looked shiny and smooth so I put a lot of grease in the U joints. It flips around very well. Put in on.
The yoke would not turn smoothly so I put a thin bushing, spacer (it looked like a ring for a cylinder) in there and that fixed that problem.
Lastly checked the pressure test, pressure was fine but the vacuum sucked and would not hold over 5 lbs very well. Was sucking air in around the yoke seal.
Since that area will be separated from water and oil inside of the bellows, we thought it would be OK, plus with driving, it should heat up swell and work well.
but in hind sight, I went ahead and ordered the Speedi sleeve. It will be in Tuesday and my pin tool to remove the gimbal bell housing will be in Monday.
They said I have not begun to cuss yet until I start attempting to replace the bellows back onto the bell housing!
Oh I have done some sweating the past two weeks on that boat!

 

[achris]

You have the Merc workshop manual. Are you refering to it? It sounds like you're just putting it all together without reference to the manual. The clearances and preloads need to be set up of you will kill that drive. You refer to the yoke not turning smoothly and you putting a spacer in. That spacer also has shims involved and that MUST be setup with the special tools from Merc. If not, the clearance and backlash between the driven gear and the drive gear will be wrong. At best, the drive will howl. At worst, it has a lifespan of minutes.

Chris.....

 

[glennj3]

Chris, I have not found a manual. I have been working on this unit at a local marine dealer service center that I have known for ever and he has worked on my boat for ever. I trust what he tells me with his hands on help. I again used the term spacer when I should have said Shim.
The tool to remove the bell housing came in today so I will start on that Monday!