Fixing soft spot on my fiberglass bass boat?

[Chevyboy128]

I recently bought a mid '80s Ebbtide DynaTrak 150 and have been cleaning it up and getting it ready for use. The boat is structurally sound and overall in great shape... Except for one tiny soft spot on the floor in the corner. The boat had sat on the ground for a year or so and water must have puddles in that corner. The soft spot is not in the way or anything but I'm wanting to revarpet and thought since I will have the carpet off I might as well try and fix the soft spot. It's only like 6x10 right in the corner by the seats. Can anyone give me any information or advice on doing this? I have absolutely no idea what I could be getting myself into by doing this, so is it even worth repairing? Everywhere else on the boat deck is solid as a rock, it's just that one small spot. Like I said, any input is appreciated. If I do fix it I wanna do it right. Thanks


Here's a picture of the spot

 

[Chevyboy128]

http://s58.photobucket.com/user/Andrew_Springer/media/Mobile Uploads/image_zps26lfqh2r.jpeg.html

 

[ondarvr]

I'd suggest you read some of the other threads on "soft spot" or a few on "rotten floor", you may get lucky, but most of the time this is just the tip of the iceberg.

 

[Scott Danforth]

Look at the stickies at top of the forum. I think it's the 3rd sticky labeled DIY..., the read link 14 in its entirety.

The last thing to rot in a boat is the floor

 

[Chevyboy128]

Thanks guys I'll check it out. I know I've heard a lot of horror stories about rotting but I'm hoping this won't be too bad, because like I said before, the whole boat is solid except for that corner which was tilted down and water puddled there for a while

 

[Scott Danforth]

Thanks guys I'll check it out. I know I've heard a lot of horror stories about rotting but I'm hoping this won't be too bad, because like I said before, the whole boat is solid except for that corner which was tilted down and water puddled there for a while

If it is truly only the deck, buy a lottery ticket

 

[ricohman]

I found out the hard way boats rot from the bottom up.
Picture a wet sponge lying on a table. If the top is wet the bottom cannot be dry.

 

[Woodonglass]

IF, BIIIIG IF, the boat has been maintained well and due to one accidental breach of the cover allowed only this corner to have water pooled in it then, Yes you might only need to replace that section. You know the history and we don't soooo, cut out that section and peek below to see what's there. It may not be possible cuz more than likely the hull is filled with Foam

 

[Chevyboy128]

I'm starting to get a little scared here the more info I get... I mean I just laid out the money for the sucker and now it's starting to sound like I may have to replace half the boat. One question though, if I do have to replace the whole floor, do I have to take the cap off? If so, it it held on by the rub rail?

 

[Chevyboy128]

Or if I just cut out the little section, do I just take a saw and cut a hole in the floor? If I do and everything isn't rotted out, how do I fix the hole I just made? I know I'm asking a lot of probably stupid questions but I wanna make sure I have a solid plan before I start ripping apart the boat

 

[Woodonglass]

Depending on the location of the soft spot in relation the the bottom of the hull. you will use a circular saw with the blade set to 11/16" deep. Cut around the spot making surey you are cutting into good solid wood. A stringer or bulkhead should be in the general vicinity. Once the bad piece is cut out and removed you should have a hole big enuf to see whats below unless the hull is filled with foam and I'm guessing it will be. Theres no way to know about the condition of the stringers with the foam there. You can make a foam core sampler from 1 1/2" PVC and drill down to the bottom of the hull to see whats there.
Is this an inboard or outboard boat? If it's an inboard you won't need to remove the cap. Outboards usually do,

 

[Chevyboy128]

Woodonglass: It's an outboard. Like I said its a 1984 Ebbtide DynaTrak... I believe you helped another guy on here a few years back who was restoring the exact same boat only an '86. I posted a link earlier in the post to a picture of the actual soft spot area, here's the link again though

http://s58.photobucket.com/user/Andr...qh2r.jpeg.html

It's the softest right close the the fiberglass and gets solid again about 6-8" from the fiberglass right in front of the seat

 

[Woodonglass]

Take a pic a bit further away so I can get a perspective of it's location.

 

[Chevyboy128]

Here's a better picture. I circled the soft area, everything else is solid. And like I said, it's the softest right up against the part below the seat
http://s58.photobucket.com/user/Andrew_Springer/media/Mobile Uploads/image_zpsmghsahdo.jpeg.html

 

[Woodonglass]

Ok, got it. there's probably a stringer in the general vicinity. Since your boat has the interior walls etc they may be in the way abit. I'd cut out the area about 6" x18" and see what's below.

 

[Chevyboy128]

Ok but then if I cut a section out and it's not rotted out underneath, how do I fit a new piece of wood in the hole?

 

[Woodonglass]

Thats a very simple procedure. You glue and screw some cleats to all four edges of the hole which will allow you to glue and screw the new piece in. Here's a drawing of what I mean...

Once the new piece is in you'll fill the gaps with Thickened resin and then re-glass the area with Resin and CSM.

 

[Chevyboy128]

And just having those cleats there will be enough to to support the weight?

 

[ricohman]

You know, unless this is your dream boat or you have a real strong emotional attachment to it, I would just enjoy it (if it is safe) and move along to something else when you want.
This is a time consuming expensive job. And you will have more invested in the boat than it will be worth.
But it will be built better than what came from the factory and will last a long time.

 

[Woodonglass]

And just having those cleats there will be enough to to support the weight?

Absolutely!! a 4" cleat glue with Thickened resin and srewed thru the deck will make it rock solid. the cleat should run along the entire edge on both sides and end. The deck is probably 1/2" to 3/4" thick.