1962 Arkansas Traveler restoration

ondarvr

Supreme Mariner
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Apr 6, 2005
Messages
11,527
Re: 1962 Arkansas Traveler restoration

Ondarvr- I initially wanted to just glass in foam for my stringers but the guy at my boat place said he didn't think it would be strong enough, plus he said I wouldn't be able to screw down the deck because there would be nothing for the screws to grab into.
Ahhhhhh, now you got me questioning at the 12th hour!
Like I stated earlier, I only ordered enough seacast for the transom and keel but since the keel is done I will have a gallon extra- that may be enough for a half of a stringer.
What to do, what to do?????
Let me know all your thoughts guys- asap please:)

The strength of the core (wood, foam, cardboard, etc), can be made up by just adding another layer of glass or two depending on the weight used.

It would most likely be stronger and lighter than with Seacast.

To secure the floor apply glue to the top of each stringer and then weight the floor down with some heavy stuff.
 

micks110

Master Chief Petty Officer
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Sep 14, 2009
Messages
879
Re: 1962 Arkansas Traveler restoration

Ok- got it! Thanks.
Since I will have some extra seacast do you think I could block off small4-6 inch sections say every 16 inches and fill those voids with seacast- that way I can glue the whole thing and screw every 16 inches(just piece of mind knowing it's not coming up)?
I assume the glue should be 5200 or 5700?
Thanks again guys! Everyones advice is what makes this possible for me!
 

ezmobee

Supreme Mariner
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Mar 26, 2007
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23,767
Re: 1962 Arkansas Traveler restoration

I think that would be a cool idea except don't inadvertently make pockets that could get water in them.
 

micks110

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Sep 14, 2009
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Re: 1962 Arkansas Traveler restoration

Ezombee- ok so how about I use the pourable foam I have left over and put it in the open pockets to make them stringers with no voids at all?!

So 4-6 inches of seacast every 16-24 inches, and then fill the rest of the empty stringers with pourable foam, trim off the excess when it dries, then cap them closed forever with fiberglass.

Sounds like a new plan and I would save a couple hundred in seacast.

Update from here tonight- I just finished tabbing in the transom and I am working on the deck template now. Another late night tonight so I'll post pics tomorrow.
Thanks Again!
 

micks110

Master Chief Petty Officer
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Sep 14, 2009
Messages
879
Re: 1962 Arkansas Traveler restoration

Bob- I'm getting there! Ive been so busy this last week and a half trying to get everything ready since I set a deadline for myself. I don't even have time to sleep! I still have a bunch of odds and ends stuff for today that need to get done too.

Here are the pics from last night
The transom skin got glassed in. I still need to do a couple more pieces of tabbing- I think?
100_0933.jpg
[/IMG]

The floor template is coming along. I couldn't finish it last night cause the transom wasn't done yet
100_0934.jpg
[/IMG]
 

tallcanadian

Captain
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Sep 7, 2006
Messages
3,245
Re: 1962 Arkansas Traveler restoration

Great job on the boat, micks. I just caught up to your project and you've done a wonderful build. I've gone back and read this a couple of times and perhaps I've missed it, and this is only for my own curiousity, but, I noticed you don't have any drainage holes anywhere on the floor running under your stringers. Are you not worried about water getting in from the deck anywhere? Just my own thing, is all. I'm not being negative. LOL.
 

archbuilder

Vice Admiral
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Sep 12, 2009
Messages
5,697
Re: 1962 Arkansas Traveler restoration

Hey Mick looking good! Just to confuse things, I would leave the seacast out of the cross braces before I would the stringers. I just try not to mix materials in a structural elements (inividual members). The fiberglass shell will work like a tube, as a long as it is thick enough. I would also make sure you have the plywood attached well to the tops of the stringers and the boat. A boat floor assembly is really a stress-skin panel. The floor and the keel glass work to resist tensile and compressive forces. The foam and stringers keep them position relative to each other......in other words they do the same thing the white stuff in the Oreo does! Here is a drawing to illustrate...you have to think of it as an assembly that works together.

Boatfloordrawing.jpg


The stringers also help to distribute impact loads and point loads (your feet), over wider areas of the hull. There are also a lot of other forces going on, but they are minor copared to the two.....so that was probably more than you wanted to here...I need to quit drinking so much coffee! :D
 

micks110

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Re: 1962 Arkansas Traveler restoration

tallcanadian- nope no drain- you saw correctly:) my thoughts are and a couple others I spoke to about it there are going to be no natural materials or any voids or airpockets after I'm done with the pourable foam. The only wood on the boat will be the deck but I will be glassing in the sides, top, and bottom of that as well. When I screw the deck down I will use epoxy in the pre-drilled hole prior to the screw goin in. I will run a bead of glue around the entire edge of the deck before I put it down to help seal it and then I will be tabbing in the whole deck to the hull with fiberglass.
The only way water is going to get under the deck is if I split to hull over some rocks.
Thanks for reading
 

SKIBUM1M

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Jul 17, 2009
Messages
604
Re: 1962 Arkansas Traveler restoration

Are you still on for the seacast pour tomorrow? Cant wait to see it come together. Keep up the great work.
 
Joined
Nov 17, 2009
Messages
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Re: 1962 Arkansas Traveler restoration

Just at thought if you make either hollow or foam core stringers and glass them you could make small section where you can put the left over sea cast so you can have solid points to screw things like the seats. Hope that makes sense?

Adam
 

micks110

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Re: 1962 Arkansas Traveler restoration

Seacast Pour Of The Transom Is On For Tomorrow Morning @ 7 A.m.

Pics And Vids Will Follow Later On In The Day!
 

SKIBUM1M

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Jul 17, 2009
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Re: 1962 Arkansas Traveler restoration

Wow an early riser. I dont get up till 10:30 which is good for tomorrow since UPS wont be here till 6pm then I can spray till 3am
 

micks110

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Sep 14, 2009
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Re: 1962 Arkansas Traveler restoration

sounds like you'll have a fun night skibum!
I gotta do it early because that is the best time for my friend Jarad that will be helping me, plus t will have more time during the day with the heat on to set up.
 

SKIBUM1M

Chief Petty Officer
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Jul 17, 2009
Messages
604
Re: 1962 Arkansas Traveler restoration

once the seacast starts to kick you can turn your heaters off. The curing process will heat your garage fine by itself. Good luck with it
 

micks110

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Re: 1962 Arkansas Traveler restoration

tallcanadian that's me in both pictures. My son is only a year and a half old.
 

tallcanadian

Captain
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Sep 7, 2006
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Re: 1962 Arkansas Traveler restoration

Oops, my bad. You look so young. LOL. I'm sorry about that. I hope I didn't offend you.
 

micks110

Master Chief Petty Officer
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Sep 14, 2009
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879
Re: 1962 Arkansas Traveler restoration

Nope- not upset at all. I'm 31 so not to young!

I'm finishing up tanning in the transom with my 3rd layer of cloth. Once I'm don with that I'm going to put a layer of strand over the transom to blend it all in.
Then it's cleanup time and get ready for seacast!
 

BobsGlasstream

Commander
Joined
Sep 11, 2009
Messages
2,128
Re: 1962 Arkansas Traveler restoration

micks110,
Overall, I haven't seen to many, if any done better then yours, Outstanding job on the boat.
I really will be looking for the pic's.
Good luck, I hope all goes well.
Bob
 
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