I swear...

[Exit]

Nice boat!

 

[alanfox55]

Not me I wouldn't complain! Hey Sea Rider maybe you can help me out. I asked this on the Mercury section but have gotten no answer yet. I finally get my boat done so started on the motor.Got the water pump rebuilt then started the motor to make sure there were not any issues with it. That water pump was really shooting the water out so that's good but the motor will not run under 2500 RPM. I went ahead and rebuilt the carb and cleaned it real good. Used copper wire down all the little holes then checked them with a flash light. I checked the float and everything was good there.Put in new caskets then checked the fuel filter and that was good. It started right up and sounded really good at 2500 RPM but again would die if I went lower than that. My service manual is saying I need new reeds but I wanted to get some opinions before I started. Any thoughts on the problem? Thanks

 

[Sea Rider]

Alan,

Can?t find your post on the Merc forum, redirect with attached link as to respond there.

Happy Boating

 

[alanfox55]

Just looked,it was on the first page and now it's the first one but thanks anyway.

 

[Sea Rider]

Before my new 8.5 pitch prop arrives. have decided to dispense off my throttle limiter to allow WOT operation by monitoring RPM with a Tiny Tach state of the art installation next to throttle grip. That way will be boating nicely with 1-2-3 boaters at controlled max wot RPM for each given case without over revving engine blindly.

Tach cable has been routed straight from throttle grip to spark plug. Wire excess has been cut to desired length, pick up and ground cable have been welded back again as factory delivered before cut.

You should secure tight the Y formed union of pick up and ground on top & parallel to plug wire by means of tie wraps, then proceed to roll red cable over plug wire 4 wraps tight, can cut wire excess. By locking tight Y union will prevent red cable to break shutting down TTwhile engine is on and vibrating.




Now engine counts with 2 meters, an internal floating installed Hardline hour meter and an external fixed TT hour/tach meter on tiller. who could ask for anything more.



Monitoring WOT rpm with musician ear is good, but not even close as reading rpm right on tach display.




Happy Boating

 

[Chopperbill]

I have the same tach and my motor has the rev limiter. It's hi point is 6300 rpm and Just over it the motor cuts out. Tach is spot on.

 

[Sea Rider]

On carburated portable 2 strokes, there isn't a rev limiter on engine, that's why you need to have a tach installed if you like playing with prop pitches. In your particular case do you still have more throttle to go when rev limiter kicks in ? If so, by how much ?

Happy Boating

 

[Chopperbill]

On carburated portable 2 strokes, there isn't a rev limiter on engine, that's why you need to have a tach installed if you like playing with prop pitches. In your particular case do you still have more throttle to go when rev limiter kicks in ? If so, by how much ?

Happy Boating

I really can't say for sure Because with the stock 10 prop it seldom hit it, was always around 6000-6200 rpm sometimes a little more. The short time I had the 8 prop on(this was at sea level) it would hit the limiter all the time and had throttle left but don't remember how much because I just backed it off.

 

[Sea Rider]

At sea level you should use the 10 pitch prop to lower wot revs throughout the throttle range and avoid rev limiter kicking in prematurely.

Happy Boating

 

[Chopperbill]

Yeah I found that out in the first five minutes after I put it on to try. It came off and the 10 went back on. My dad bought the 8 for me for home at 5300 feet. He thought it would be a better performer. Haven't been out with it here yet.

 

[Sea Rider]

Guess what...

My state of the art Tiny Tach installation stop working after just 1/2 hour use. Assumed it was due to having wrapped pick up wire on the outter sleeve that protects plug wire instead doing so over the wire itself or cutting to a shorter length to suit internal less cable routing needs. None of these were the culprit. The red pick up solid wire broke where trimmed and welded back again. Pick up wire being solid will break prematurely from the sleeve where it exits due to engine vibration if the sleeve is not well secured onto something.

While testing alternatives, discovered some interesting tech issues :
-If you cut flush tach wire and wrap it tight some rounds over plug cable, tach won't work at all, bad music.

If wanting TT fixation with least pick up wire lenght, this is the way to go. Now TT has nothing to envy to a Hardine tach in which you can trim excess pick up wire after final routing. Ain't that sweet..



Happy Boating

 

[alanfox55]

No Title

I had to use a tach because I went from and 8in to a 15in prop. The reason it had an 8in on it was the motor came off of a pontoon boat. My service manual was suggesting a 17 to 19 but I decided I would be a little conservative plus there was way more 15 to choose from. I got a Michigan Wheel 15 in from iboats which was one of a long list of props for my motor.

 

[Sea Rider]

A tach is a must have, specially for taching standard factory delivered props with engine, playing with prop pitches to maximize wot range for any given engine on any given boat, monitor fuel economy when on plane and adjust idle speed. It's a crime not to have one installed.

Happy Boating

 

[alanfox55]

I drove a pontoon boat with a 40hp Mercury made Force motor with 8in pitch and it got it going alright but it would only do about 15mph and it was very easy to hit the rev limiter...it did not have a Tach.

 

[Sea Rider]

Was not happy installing my TT meter without pick up thin threads being fully tin welded to make it hard, got a low heat welder and tinned the whole pick up protruding portion. Now TT reads very accurate rpm throughout the whole throttle range as opposed to erratic rpm readings when was not tinned. No need to install ground cable as works without it.





Pick up extreme was secured with tie wraps onto plug cable as seen on pic, finishing with tight wraps of 3M electric tape, my favorite.




Happy Boating

 

[Chopperbill]

No Title

My Hardline tach says to coil it around the plug wire and tie wrap it off. Works perfect. It is exact at idle and at rev limit.

 

[Sea Rider]

That's why I'm a huge fan of Hardline hour/tachs, easy installation and the possibility to trim wire excess after has been wrapped onto plug wire compared to TT which has a hard pick up wire that breaks along the extra long tach wire that comes factory delivered with tach, for me the shorter, the better.

Now with TT pick up mod nothing to envy to a Hardline installation, besides display window is larger and much easier to read at far tiller distances without glasses, that's a boating plus.

Happy Boating

 

[Sea Rider]

Now that have become again a huge fan of TT meters, went for some real world rpm /speed tests on flat calm no wind water cond with me alone and lightly loaded 400 Kg Rib.



To maintain plane :
20 Km/H : 4200 revs

While cruising at plane at :

5000 rpm : 30 Km/H
5300 rpm : 33 Km/H
5500 rpm : 36 Km/H
5800 rpm : 38 Km/H at 3/4 open throttle

If going full throttle with me alone max rpm will shoot to 6200 revs with no speed increase whatsoever, need to throttle gently while having both eyes on tach as not to over rev engine badly.

1/4 throttle left will help to plane combo faster along better torque to maintain best plane with + 2 boaters aside from driver or carry + 150 Kg more weight for engine to maintain max 5800 rpm wot range.

Happy Boating

 

[Sea Rider]

I'm not a big fan adding extra chain between anchor and anchor line due to the noise it produces up front while nested at bow when encountering choppy seas cond, but for 10 bucks could't say no to this nice 1/2 meter thick heavy stainless steel chain.



Has a quick release front shackle that can be opened instantly to install any other anchor to suit your anchoring needs. Heavy chain works perfect along modified front anchor.

Happy Boating

 

[Sea Rider]

When sea cond gets windy & wavy hard hull slams badly into the water bed. Doesn't happen at plane speed as one would imagine, usually at slow plane, that's what comes inmediately after passing fast displacement speed.

I'm begining to feel the slam pain effects on my lower spine but not to the point going to the chiropractic soon after arrive to terra firme. So was planing getting rid of my uncomfy transversal alum seat and install a nice and confy Ullman Jochey/driver hydraulic seat. Will inquire its cost, hope not a extreme highly prohibitive one and install it next to my extended tiller arm.

Have many high tech models to choose from only 2, Biscaya & Compact are of my particular interest and boating needs :





Hope the pedestal height to seat matches same my actual transversal seat height, if both can be height and impact adjusted would be a ++.

Happy Boating