96 5.7L Mercruiser - no compression, water in

[Scott Danforth]

Per mortec

10243880...350...95-00...2 or 4...Vortec truck, Gen.I crate motors and "ZZ4", roller cam, one piece rear seal

Get your block redone, just get the vortec heads and intake.

Ebay for intake $150, Gilbert Chevrolet for the heads $450, $1500 at machine shop and your back in business.

If your crank needs work, a new one is cheaper than a grind and polish. May as well get a complete stroker kit and build a 383 at that point ($900 for the kit, $400 for bore and hone)

 

[Rick Stephens]

So, I've decided to purchase the Vortec Longblock from Rapido. Some of the info on the net is super confusing. My block says 880 casing (96 Rinker) and has a mechanical fuel pump. Talking with Rapido today, they said they don't have 880 blocks with the opening for mechanical fuel and I need to switch to electric. Raul never called me back later today but we were supposed to talk out what that entails. They have a 638 block for a mechanical fuel pump though... that's not what is in my rinker.

Your comment now makes me curious. Is my 12 bolt intake not going to fit this Vortec 880 package?

I did the same thing with a 4.3. Went from mechanical to electric. I just made the system the same as Mercruiser does it. I was able to pickup the OEM fuel pump fairly reasonable. Then used the '96 mounting bracket, rubber mounts, stainless fuel line and whatnot from Mercruiser to make my fuel system exactly the same as stock.

You will also need to add an oil pressure switch that switches on a solenoid to power said pump. The other wire comes from the outboard small lug on the starter solenoid to prime the carburetor during cranking. We can all help with that when the time comes. It is easy to do, need to build nice little harnesses while the motor is on an engine stand.

Rick

 

[Scott Danforth]

Your comment now makes me curious. Is my 12 bolt intake not going to fit this Vortec 880 package?

since I see this question wasnt answered. No, your intake wont fit. your block is the same as the vortec motors, however you have '95 and earlier heads. so your intake will not fit the vortec heads.

 

[96RinkerCaptiva212]

Per mortec

10243880...350...95-00...2 or 4...Vortec truck, Gen.I crate motors and "ZZ4", roller cam, one piece rear seal

Get your block redone, just get the vortec heads and intake.

Ebay for intake $150, Gilbert Chevrolet for the heads $450, $1500 at machine shop and your back in business.

If your crank needs work, a new one is cheaper than a grind and polish. May as well get a complete stroker kit and build a 383 at that point ($900 for the kit, $400 for bore and hone)

haha was looking at that some yesterday. Problem is, I basically have a 2k budget with this. Also have a 65' retaining wall that fell... and folded my AC/Heat pump like a chair. So, sweating it out so far this summer! Will need to get that AC fixed by at least winter time so I can use the heat pump. Anyway, my first thought was to just see if a .030 bore would get rid of the grooves that are now worn into the cylinder walls. One of them in particular you can catch your nail in it pretty good.

I could get a full vortec LB from Rapido for 1850. It's 150 for shipping so there is my 2k spent. I could squeeze another 150 for a vortec intake I'm sure. Rapido said I can get the electric fuel pump setup for about 90 bucks. Still close enough. Still need some gaskets. Then will need the boat shop to tune my carb in. Let's call it $2500

Or, just get the 638 longblock for $1550. I'm assuming that means I can reuse my mechanical fuel pump and intake. The actual shortblock is 1400 but I see no way a machine shop is going to check my heads and clean them up for less than $150. So, I guess i wouldn't need anything else other than intake and carb gasket. I have a new thermostat and gasket on the way and trying to figure out exactly what exhaust manifold and riser gasket I need. Probably still get the carb tuned by the shop so can call this one 2k and at budget.

383 would be super cool but looking at probably like 3500 total. :blue:

I feel like the Vortec might be the best option at this point. A little over budget but can squeeze that, get a little power bump and get back on the water this season.

 

[96RinkerCaptiva212]

Scott/Rick - So, I cancelled my order for the intake gasket for the 95 heads while I sit on this decision for a day about upgrading to the vortec longblock. Do you have any preference around cast iron and aluminum intake? This is a 350 Vortec intake for $189 OBO. Amazing when you type "marine" in afterwards and the prices jump to 400 :faint2: Notes on brass inserts.. do I need to go "marine intake"?

I'm seeing threads saying don't use Edelbrock Performer because you lose low end which is the last thing you want while coming up on plane. Other people chime in and say that's stupid, the Performer is fine.

 

[tpenfield]

I have not been following along word-for-word, but wondering about cylinder #5 being at 0 psi and the indentations in the piston . . .

Has the cause of no compression been identified ? . . . and I see that you still have the engine in the boat :noidea:

I'm just wondering if there is work to be done on the lower end and if you plan on pulling the rest of the engine out?

 

[Scott Danforth]

I personally like the intakes with the brass inserts for the water jacket. however if your in fresh water, you would be fine. brackish and salt, no way. not even epoxy coating the water passages (helps for a bit until the epoxy fails)

I picked up a volvo marine intake back when I warmed over my '88 with vortec heads from ebay for $300.

here is a marine volvo intake on craigslist for $250 https://easttexas.craigslist.org/bpo/6145213815.html

 

[96RinkerCaptiva212]

I have not been following along word-for-word, but wondering about cylinder #5 being at 0 psi and the indentations in the piston . . .

Has the cause of no compression been identified ? . . . and I see that you still have the engine in the boat :noidea:

I'm just wondering if there is work to be done on the lower end and if you plan on pulling the rest of the engine out?

Still haven't found actual cause of detonation, or mechanical damage from something coming loose from carb.. going to take carb loose from intake today and see what I can find. Will report back as I find things.

Going to Home Depot right now to buy a chain hoist, attach some beams up in my garage trusses (4 trusses tied together) and pull this shortblock from the boat. I'm not sure how much weight exactly but from looking around the net, looks like 4 trusses can hold quite a bit more weight than an engine. Shortblock maybe 200lbs, just want to be sure for when I hoist the longblock all together (sans manifolds).

 

[Rick Stephens]

Still haven't found actual cause of detonation, or mechanical damage from something coming loose from carb.. going to take carb loose from intake today and see what I can find. Will report back as I find things.

Going to Home Depot right now to buy a chain hoist, attach some beams up in my garage trusses (4 trusses tied together) and pull this shortblock from the boat. I'm not sure how much weight exactly but from looking around the net, looks like 4 trusses can hold quite a bit more weight than an engine. Shortblock maybe 200lbs, just want to be sure for when I hoist the longblock all together (sans manifolds).

That should work fine to pull your motor. No problem hanging 400 pounds off the average 2x4 truss if you can prevent twisting - which cross tying four of them certainly does.

You mentioned aluminum versus cast iron and the answer from Scott was perfect, if you are in any salt at all, no aluminum. I am using the performa, and have used them on both SBC and Ford Windsors in the past. They are a fine choice for me since I am far from any salt.

 

[96RinkerCaptiva212]

Thanks so much guys - you are really doing be solid here on this thread since I'm a first time boat owner with a serious issue on my hands lol. I just got off the phone with Raul at Rapido. He has the Vortec longblock ready to go and has a cast iron, high rise intake for it that he said he will let me have for 250. He also has a 600 4 barrel carb for another 250 if I want it and would need an adapter plate but I told him I don't know why I would worry about a carb when I already have one. Mine is a 2 barrel, has a secondary blade under the top blade. Not sure what that all actually means, I'm a fuel injected guy and this is the first carb engine I've owned. Guess I need to ask for the adapter plate is for then... Does that allow a 2barrel carb to sit on a 4 barrel ready intake?

 

[Rick Stephens]

May need adapter plate depending on whether the carb is straight bore or spread bore and 2 Bbl or 4. Take your time here and get it right the first time. $250 for an intake is a lot of dough if you also need adapters.

 

[96RinkerCaptiva212]

Rick - on the subject of the electric fuel pump conversion - does this seem suitable? Kit on Ebay for 149. I did find another site with a kit for 229.

 

[96RinkerCaptiva212]

Here is the one for 234

 

[96RinkerCaptiva212]

No Title

Update - engine is out and pulling all the mounts, bellhousing and starter to get it ready for my Rapido LB arrival here in a few days! Chain Hoist seemed to work well. Trusses creaking and popping but didn't bow down any. I think before the longblock goes in I will cut a few cross supports for some lateral support. Had plenty of room since I had it tore down to the block. I will probably just put the longblock in on it's own to keep the weight down some and then put the intake and carb on in the boat.

 

[96RinkerCaptiva212]

No Title

In case anyone is interested in what the boat actually looks like

 

[Scott Danforth]

Rick - on the subject of the electric fuel pump conversion - does this seem suitable? Kit on Ebay for 149. I did find another site with a kit for 229.

WAY WAY way too much money for a Carter P4389 marine electric fuel pump.

they are $54 at Summitracing

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/crt-p4389


how About I sell you one for $150, you save money, I make money

by the way, Carter supplies Barr marine and mercruiser and volvo and cummins and john deere and a bunch of others in addition to the general public

 

[96RinkerCaptiva212]

WAY WAY way too much money for a Carter P4389 marine electric fuel pump.

they are $54 at Summitracing

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/crt-p4389


how About I sell you one for $150, you save money, I make money

by the way, Carter supplies Barr marine and mercruiser and volvo and cummins and john deere and a bunch of others in addition to the general public

lol wow, thanks for that brother! That's actually a kit for only 55! Looks likes that's the one I'll go with! I was sweating dropping another 150 on this project

 

[96RinkerCaptiva212]

No Title

Does this look normal to you guys? There was grease slapped on the starter and the inside of the bellhousing. Maybe the coupling was over greased?

 

[Rick Stephens]

That looks like all that is, extra grease.

 

[96RinkerCaptiva212]

Just to check, the carter marine pump is 4-8psi.. that's totally fine for a 4 barrel carb, yea?