Re: Wiring Help
So you are saying only connect the two negatives on the battery? That way I could use the same negative buss? This would still allow me to use one for the motor and the other for the house load?
Yes, connect the two negatives which allows. the two positives should go to a 1/2/both/off switch (as the least complicated arrangement), and can still use one for starting and one for house.
I have one inline fuse within a foot or two of the battery to kill the load in case of a wire shorting between my battery and the fuses in the switch box. Is this not necessary?
After looking at it again, I guess youre right... under the way you had it setup you should have those fuses (except maybe the one in the engine harness) because you were distributing stright from the battery to the load, vice from a switch panel or central location. We're gonna get you to where you dont need them though
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Let me know what you think, but don't kill me. I am here to learn. I have nearly zero experience.
Hope you didnt feel like I was getting on your case... I'll be the last one to ***** at you about not knowing something... thats what these forums are for.
ok, your new diagram will work better for you I think. I made a couple changes for the next revision in the attached file. some are prabobly personal preference on what to show on your diagram, so take it or leave it.
updates are:
1) add the motor and battery switch
2) took trolling motor straight to battery (with fuse). depending on your layout you might want to take the negative straight back to the battery too. This is because it is a large current drawing appliance, and I recomend keeping it separate from your switch panel load wiring and fusing (while keeping on the same battery).
3) added battery labels for clarity... house should be deep cycle
4) made clear what was fuse block and what was switch panel... IMO I prefer a breakerized switch panel (can give you a great source for that if you want)
5) added breaker symbols to fuse block... personal preference there (you can also add fuse / breaker ratings there).
6) added the float switch from the house + battery terminal to the bilge pump. It is a fairly standard safety practice to bypass your battery switch for the bilge pump becuase you dont want your boat to sink if left sitting at the dock and a hard rain comes up, etc.
7) removed switch for 12V receptacle... this is personal preference, as I see no need to have it switched... I would simply use the action of pluggin the item in as "switching" it... up to you.
8) also I didnt add, but suggest that you use a double throw switch for the Nav and anchor lights... that way one switch position would light your nav AND anchor, and the other position for anchor light only. this requires showing your bow ans stern light as seperate loads coming form the same switch, which I suggest doing.
so... I recomend cleaning up my messy markups into the next revision of your original, then posting back and we can work on it from there.
You're looking better already... not long until we'll have you a plan for going forward