1982 Glastron Hpv165 bass boat restoration.

[maryhannaj]

Re: 1982 Glastron Hpv165 bass boat restoration.

Hey banshee owner. Thanks for the link to the calculator. Unfortunately I dont have any apple compatible devices. I can view what it is, but I can't download it. I'll have to follow behind you on that and see if my devices app store has something that will do the same thing. Thanks for the idea. I also thought to just use a fabric tape measure to measure all of the angles of the inside of the hull and try to do the math from there.

Today I ground on that hull for another 5 or 6 hours. Man, this is a slow moving process for sure. I'll just say that I still have quite a lot left to do. I'm gettin there though, peice by peice. There is just do much build up of resin and fiberglass around where the stringers, flotation pods, transom and where they filled and leveled off the huge gaps that were left in between the floor panels and the hull. I'll be so dang happy when the grinding is finished so I can start building my transom and stringers.
I do feel like I'm beginning to make a bit of progress with it but it's just gonna take a lot of time I think. I can't even imagine how trashed and dusty the garage would be without the shelter.



In this photo it shows the grind area. It's pretty similiar to this all of the way around the hull where the gaps between the sole and the hull were filled in. It's also like this along where every other peice of structure was tabbed into the hull.
Instead of grinding it down to the hull last time the work was done, they just ground over the other glass, filled in as many gaps as they could with this greenish colored fiberglass filler, and then re glassed right back over the top of it. There are huge air voids, cracks, gaps and areas of unsoaked glass that will just kind of fall off.
I can't imagine this is the way it should have been done.

 

[maryhannaj]

Re: 1982 Glastron Hpv165 bass boat restoration.

Ok. 6 more hours of straight grinding again tonight. Holy crap this thing has a dang ton of build up on it. Am I just missing something again and its supposed to be there?
Does anyone know if Glastron meant for there to be such thick layers of coarse grained woven glass directly underneath of where the flotation plods are were tabbed in. There are at least 3 layers of that super coarse woven glass layed in there and everywhere there was a rib. Each weave in this glass is about 1/4 inch wide. It looks like is was so stiff when it was layed up that it wouldn't make the bends very well at all. It left sizeable air pockets and gaps in the areas where the tightest radius would be.
I guess it doesn't matter if it was supposed to be there because one side in the pod area is already ground out.
When it comes time for build up, should I put this type of glass back in, or just stick with the 1.5 oz. CSM and 1708?

 

[maryhannaj]

Re: 1982 Glastron Hpv165 bass boat restoration.

Something else of course. I'm looking at a few different types of polyester right now. I'm not sure which one would be the one to use. They all say that they are used in some type of boat repair, construction or are of marine grade.
There is a 404 tooling polyester resin-isopathic, a 700 vinyl-ester, a 435 standard polyester lay-up resin and a silmar 249 surfboard lay-up resin. Which should I order?
Does anyone have any experience with using 1208 biaxal instead of 1708? If so, how was it? Pros and cons.

Also. If coating the entire hull with 1708, would 1 or 2 layers be suggested? Would a layer of the csm be suggested over the top of that as well, or just for the transom, stringers, ribs and floor? What exactly is needed to make the PB?
Thanks.

 

[banshee owner]

Re: 1982 Glastron Hpv165 bass boat restoration.

MHJ that link i sent you should be a website you can use right online no need to download it. I have windows based computers and no apple based computers

 

[jc55]

Re: 1982 Glastron Hpv165 bass boat restoration.

my experience is only based on one brand. I went through all of the different kinds somewhere around here....maybe in my build. I highly suggest the surfboard resin for initial adhesion and workability. Vinylester I've never used but is more waterproof and was suggested to you for the transom skin repair. There seems to be a huge difference in resins and it's not talked about much. If you're getting it by the gallon, I suggest experimenting with different ones.

My opinion differs but I don't see the need for anything but 2 layers of 1708 only, inside the hull on stringers. The hull itself is up to you. Not required but if you have the money, two layers would be awesome. I'm a big fan of overkill. Wish I would've done the underside of my cap.

I wouldn't even use CSM inside the hull because with GOOD resin, you can get that 1708 to go over square corners. CSM is like gluing paper on cardboard for strength IMO.

PB=resin, MEKP, Cabosil, milled fibers

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: 1982 Glastron Hpv165 bass boat restoration.

Here's what I recommend...

Standard 435 Laminating Resin. You'll Need a minimum of 10 gallons to start and prolly another 5 - 10 gallons to finish.
You'll need 15 yds of 50" 1.5 oz of CSM and 10 yds of 1708 Biaxial Fabric. You may end up buying more to finish up. You'll need 4 gallons of Cabosil and 1 lb of 1/4" chopped strand fibers to make your Peanut butter. There's two kinds of PB. Fillet PB for the stringers and etc.. uses just straight cabosil. Structural Cabosil where you want a bit more strength like attaching the transom to the hull and the deck etc you will add about 1/4 cup of the chopped strand to a quart of PB. You add Cabosil to the catalyzed resin until it gets to the consistency of creamy peanut butter. Use about 1% MEKP so you'll have about 25 mins of working time with the PB. I'd recommend just one layer of 1708 on the hull. Never used the 1208 so don't have a comment on it. No need to put CSM over the top. The 1708 has CSM Stitched to the back of it and it should be applied to the hull. This will aid in the bonding process. Make sure and get a bubble roller when you order your supplies. It will be invaluable when laying the 1708. Always wet the surface with resin first and then lay the mat or fabric.

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: 1982 Glastron Hpv165 bass boat restoration.

This sounds like a paralysis by analysis that is often the case around the hows & whys of material choice & repair methods.

If you'd like to stiffen the bottom of the hull, decide how much time & money you'd like to spend. Any additional glass work will add weight as well. 1 additional layer of either CSM or 1708 will stiffen the hull, and add as little additional weight as possible.

----------->> WOG has just posted the bulk of what else I would have suggested... <<------------

having read what WOG suggests, I'll add that proper care post rehab will do more for 95% (or more) of the boats we resto then more expensive materials (better? IDK, certainly a trade off) will ever be able to overcome. Even boats done w/ epoxy & fiberglass w/ all the best choices money can buy, will still eventually succumb to poor maintenance and improper storage.

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: 1982 Glastron Hpv165 bass boat restoration.

Uhhmmm, I'd use surfboard resin for surfboards and NOT on my boat!! The 435 Resin is a very good resin for what you are doing and exactly what you need for the tasks at hand. JB is correct about the Paralysis by Analysis. You are WAY overthinking this stuff. Just grind it down, fabricate your stringers and put em back in. This is NOT Brain Surgery.

 

[jc55]

Re: 1982 Glastron Hpv165 bass boat restoration.

I can respect that WOG. I believe that it is a better/higher quality product and given the square area of abuse to resin coverage ratio on a surfboard, the low tolerance for voids and imperfections, there you have it

 

[maryhannaj]

Re: 1982 Glastron Hpv165 bass boat restoration.

Thanks guys for all of the info, opinions and criticism on the materials. Man, I wish I had more experience with this type of thing. It would sure make it easier to purchase the right materials. And it just seems unusual to me for some reason about how much material I have had grind away from the hull. With all of this grinding, I know it's taking away from the thickness and structural integrity of the original hull itself. I guess I'll go with one layer.
Thanks again for the link on that calculator banshee owner. I will try it again after more hull grinding today. It isn't even really anything but the layer that is going to cover the inside of the hull that I'm having a bit of a time on calculating how much I will need. I searched for an app that I could just download here early this morning with no luck. I'm gonna go back and check it out. Thanks man.

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: 1982 Glastron Hpv165 bass boat restoration.

Almost none of us had any experience doing any of this, when we started.

Take a break on the material ordering, and focus on the task at hand, getting the hull ground & prepped.

I looked back, and I think this is the last pix you posted:

about 20 days ago.

If you think you've got a problem and you think you've overground the hull, post up some more recent pix, showing some of the areas. Close up & further out for perspective.

Given a production schedule, and the industrial application of materials, it's not surprising that you've found puddles & sags that might hamper your glass work.

You ONLY need to grind back to good, solid, well laminated (adhered) glass.

 

[maryhannaj]

Re: 1982 Glastron Hpv165 bass boat restoration.

I haven't been grinding for 20 days jbcurt00. I'm guessing with today I have about 20 hrs or so of grinding into it. I remember being told about just needing to have fresh clean glass too. The tecnnical problem I'm having is that when I grind it, I continually exposes layers of glass that are full of air pockets and areas that weren't soaked thuroughly with resin so when I grind it back, it just exposes those gaps and air pockets. It delaminates in layers because it has been done possibly a few times before. When it was done before, they didnt grind it down to a suitable lay-up surface but just went with it anyways. The personal problem I'm having with it is that yes, I do overthink things like this because I can't feel comfortable with winging things like some others can. I do aways like to know what I'm getting into and try to handle it the most educated and thurough way possible.
I'm grinding through areas of build up that are from 1/4 inch to 1inch plus in some areas so that I don't create the same problem. Now I don't plan on ever doing this again to this boat but I just can't allow myself to do a partial job. I know your not telling me to do that either. I just feel in the case of this boat where it's been done so many times with so many layers that I'm better off starting a build up at the hulls original surface. I hope! I can also only hope that I'm not compromising the structure of the hull by doing so.
I guess I should have just been posting more pics of the grinding process.

So here's some pics.

 

[maryhannaj]

Re: 1982 Glastron Hpv165 bass boat restoration.

Here's more.

 

[maryhannaj]

Re: 1982 Glastron Hpv165 bass boat restoration.

And again.

 

[maryhannaj]

Re: 1982 Glastron Hpv165 bass boat restoration.

It's taking a while, but I'm getting closer. I do need to get my materials on order though. At least some of them. That way when I am finished with the grinding I won't have a bunch of down time while I wait for materials. Thanks.

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: 1982 Glastron Hpv165 bass boat restoration.

Looks like you have been busy grinding.....

Is there any areas you think you need to grind further in this pix:

generally it looks well roughed & scuffed to good glass, but is there still puddles & dribbles of resin/glass?

This is closer detail of some portion of the pix above, correct?:

And looks to be fairly well down to good glass ^^^

 

[maryhannaj]

Re: 1982 Glastron Hpv165 bass boat restoration.

In the top pic, the entire upper portion all of the way around, or gw area and bow area haven't even been touched yet. The areas down in the corners haven't been ground yet either. The grinds are just tapering in as I work my way back toward the transom area. The area in the very bottom of the keel will also need to be ground. I just got the keel running board ground out today.
In the bottom pic. This is the where the starboard stringer runs into where the transom used to be. The sloped area above where the stringer has been cut out was underneath a floor panel which was itself under the starboard side flotation pod. Only the very top or what would be horizontal surface has been ground. Almost the entire unground area in this pic will need to be ground about 1/2 inch down to acheive the original hull surface.
And there are still a rew resin runs and puddles too.

 

[maryhannaj]

Re: 1982 Glastron Hpv165 bass boat restoration.

This pic is a better represesentation of what some of the ground areas look like.



This pic shows somd of the build up areas where the stringers, ribs and flotation pods were glassed in.



And this is a bow facing pic of the ground areas. The arrows are pointing at some of the build up where the forward part of the gw flotation foam boards were mounted to the hull.

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: 1982 Glastron Hpv165 bass boat restoration.

Yep, looks like you're doing a great job grinding. Yep, it sucks..... and yep, you'd be well served to dress all those lips & PB fillets smooth like you have the rest of the hull you've ground.

Hasn't WOG already posted a pdf materials list for you?

Yep:

This should be helful
(Click the pic to download and view the pdf File)
View attachment Fiberglass repair MaterialsList.pdf

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: 1982 Glastron Hpv165 bass boat restoration.

I can respect that WOG. I believe that it is a better/higher quality product and given the square area of abuse to resin coverage ratio on a surfboard, the low tolerance for voids and imperfections, there you have it

The only significant difference that I am aware of in the formulation of Surfboard resin is it has UV protection formulated into it's chemical makeup and it is also much more Clear. It's more expensive too! I don't know of any added benefit you would get by using it for laminating stringers, decks and transoms. The 435 Marine Resin from USC is more than adequate for all the layups that the builders here on the forum will be doing and will yield excellent results. I see no reason to deviate from this resin unless a better source and or price can be found.

But hey, like EVERYBODY KNOWS, it's just the opinion of an