89 BL Capri resto help

Scherfz1

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hey y'all, names zack, new to the forum and defiantly new to restoring a boat.

i have recently acquired a 89 bayliner capri 14' knowing it was a project boat.

for the past week i have been reading and gaining over what it takes to restore a boat to worthy conditions and the significant other and i are wanting to do it and do it right.

so far i have begun the strip down and bend over phase of the restoration. interior removed, floor is cut out, wet foam removed, rotted stanchions removed (helped expose the stingers), stingers inspected and rot is found. haven't cored the transom yet, waiting for more lube from amazon to show up, but i think i know my answer....

so now i am here.... don't really know what direction i want to take or move. i have seen a few ways to replace a stinger, i have seen a few ways to replace/fix a transom. i don't know what the good ways are (as in cost/effort/correctly). also i don't know if structurally what is needed what isn't. by this i mean are the stringer for this boat a necessity, how wide does the transom stretch on this boat, things of this nature is where i am lost.

i appreciate all the help and nothing said is falling on deaf ears. also yes i know i can be looking at 2K plus to repair.
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
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Double your estimate

Its an '89 bayliner, the transom is rotten
 

Redtruck12

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Jan 25, 2018
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Hey you’re in the right place for advice and we have all been there.
stringers are a must, they are the only reason the hull can survive. Pretty much everything is what is is for a good reason.
there is a similar build in progress title is bayliner Capri complete rebuild and 9months to do it”
i have been following this build from the start and have seen it in person. Very detailed description and some really good reading.
should be a partial width transom on your boat? Inboard or outboard?
you have a substantial amount of work ahead of you but guys on here will help you through it.

pictures always help
 

Scherfz1

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Jun 4, 2019
Messages
238
Hey you’re in the right place for advice and we have all been there.
stringers are a must, they are the only reason the hull can survive. Pretty much everything is what is is for a good reason.
there is a similar build in progress title is bayliner Capri complete rebuild and 9months to do it”
i have been following this build from the start and have seen it in person. Very detailed description and some really good reading.
should be a partial width transom on your boat? Inboard or outboard?
you have a substantial amount of work ahead of you but guys on here will help you through it.

pictures always help

i will get pictures up in the morning, i am not using my computer at the moment, so i do not have access to them. thanks for the advice on the other build going on, will defiantly read it and follow.
motor is an outboard, and i would think its a partial transom seeing the foam backed up into it, i have left it in currently due to it being actually dry and not water logged.
 

Scherfz1

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Jun 4, 2019
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Redtruck12 thanks for that BL Build! hell there is a lot on info! and i would say the BL i have is pretty much the same as his, just a heck of a lot smaller LMFAO! will be rolling through it tomorrow while waiting for work to show up in the shop lol he also mentions something i ran across and have kicked around the idea of using. and that's SeaCast. thought about using it for the stringer and transom (if its shot, i know it is but lets keep the hopes alive). is this a viable option and a good one? not trying to take short cuts, but efficiency and low down time is a bonus, plus i am not much for wood working lol, my skills are more gear driven.
 

Redtruck12

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There are a number of very detailed Bayliner builds that you can check out to for reference. stick to this build thread when posing questions and looking for advice.

Read the sticky’s!!!!
They’re packed with great information👍
I’m guessing? I’m from a similar background “ gearhead “ anything with wheels and an engine. I have been an auto technician for about ... 35 years.
i had never been hesitant to explore new things and other than rough carpentry never been much for woodwork.

Again I will say you are in the right place for help. I am a year and a half ( spare time and weather dependant ) into my gut and rebuild on my 74 Duo Vagabond, and nearing completion. I Would have been lost without what I have learned on this forum.
Welcome to the brotherhood of crazy boat restorers 😉

Seacast is great in some situations BUT research more and then decide.
I’m thinking plywood and polyester resin will likely be the best way to go.
 

Scott Danforth

Grumpy Vintage Moderator still playing with boats
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read the stickies, specifically threads 14, 18, 2, 3, 4a, and 4b
 

Scherfz1

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Jun 4, 2019
Messages
238
There are a number of very detailed Bayliner builds that you can check out to for reference. stick to this build thread when posing questions and looking for advice.

Read the sticky’s!!!!
They’re packed with great information👍
I’m guessing? I’m from a similar background “ gearhead “ anything with wheels and an engine. I have been an auto technician for about ... 35 years.
i had never been hesitant to explore new things and other than rough carpentry never been much for woodwork.

Again I will say you are in the right place for help. I am a year and a half ( spare time and weather dependant ) into my gut and rebuild on my 74 Duo Vagabond, and nearing completion. I Would have been lost without what I have learned on this forum.
Welcome to the brotherhood of crazy boat restorers 😉

Seacast is great in some situations BUT research more and then decide.
I’m thinking plywood and polyester resin will likely be the best way to go.

Ya I am an auto mechanic now by trade now, before this I was an aircraft mechanic for mh-60s helicopters so I don’t think this project would put me in over my head with ability, knowledge though is a different story
 

Scherfz1

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Scherfz1

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Scherfz1

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Scherfz1

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Scherfz1

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soo here are my photos i have and they are not up to date as of yesterday, they all have captions. what isn't shown is that all of the foam in these photos has been removed and the floor tried back to the hull, everything still need to be leveled to the hull and stringers removed. i haven't yet started on the stringers yet due to needing advice along with onboard needing to be removed and the transom bored or removed or what have you.

the stingers do not look like they are 2x4's or what have you. so i do not even know what to replace them with. the bulkheads/floor supports look to be ply wood, 1/2 thick i presume (have cut out samples set aside). the stingers are wet an are black from my infection, the rear parts are the worst, fronts not too bad. there is still some foam left in the boat. if it was above the floor, it was dry so i didn't remove the "front seats". the rear foam block by the transom were also dry but i assume they will be coming out with transom repairs.

what i need advice on
what is the next set with this demo before rebuild and replacement, also what is the best way to tackle this transom deal. the transom work has me the most nervous and worried, don't want to mess crap up.

also i am trying to salvage what i can with the build, so if its good, its gonna be reused for instance the front seating wood and foam (this is an example, haven't tore into it yet), also on that note, the stingers stop right at where the front seats start.
 

Scherfz1

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oh once again, thanks for all the help guys, and i know y'all need photos so stop askin, you'll get them when i can post them my laptop remains at work so i can do my diagnostic work at the shop (if i take it home it gets forgotten)
 

Redtruck12

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Lots of pictures to refer back to.
measure and document everything you can think of.
stringers are commonly plywood and replaced with plywood
 

Scherfz1

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Redtruck12 ya i have been, since the wood is we and expanded, what would you do about matching it up? measure and see what it comes close to for thickness?

also still lost on this transom deal, been looking to see if its partial width of the back of the boat or total width. thinking about removing the foam that's on either side of the rear of the boat just to get a better idea. my garbage company is gonna hate me this week LOL
 

dezmond

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Hey. Looks like it’s gonna be a fun build
to watch ;). To make things easy, do your stringers in ply. Your transom can
be ply or sea cast. I had an older silverline with an outboard and the transom was rotted. I used sea cast and it was rock solid. But this build I used plywood and eeeepoxy. If I can help in any way, ask :). Good luck!
 

Scherfz1

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ok so here we go. this is todays progress, got the battery tray cut out.

started to remove the boxes in the back corners, crap ton of foam and i need to find a good method to remove all of it. really didnt want to, but i want back to that transom and it is water logged from another inspection done today. while removing it though i did have a brain blast (damn thing finally working for once) but i can make the floor into that box, do not really know why i didnt think of that first but oh well.

to the transom (insert tears here)

last photo is of the transom from the side, on top of one of the foam filled boxes. you can see out door weather caulking

she is not bad, but not worth trying to forget about. the good news, is she isn't the whole width of the boat thank god, she is about 3 feet in width and self incapsulated thank god, dont get me wrong the stringers are touching but sealed/confined. really thinking of sea casting the transom, dont know how much it will take but who knows. also on the issue of the transom, it looks like someone had messed with it before due to the fact is has an RV looking 90 degree siding deal caulked over it.

as for the first photo were yet again i am standing on that front seating area. i will have to remove them to lay the floor right and correctly. just no way around it and dont want to half donkey it. but by removing them i can make the floor easier to cut/install i do believe.


ok on to needing advice.
what is the best way to cut the hell out of this fiber glass? i have been using a carbide dremell tool to do most of this so far, its been doing good until i get thick areas of resin, then things get crappy and quick.

what is the best way to also remove foam, i have read you can use chemicals and crap, but it seems everyone going back to manual labor. so what is the tool of choice?

next, best way to hang an outboard? just get a saw horse and have at it? or should i build a jig like in other threads?


now onto some talk about glass and resin talk.
talked to a boat shop that specializes in full out restoration projects. talking with him, he recommended going with poly due to the fact of cost and its what it was originally made from. what are some thoughts on it, i know its high fumes and it tends to be a lot more runny over epoxy.
 

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