Yet Another Bayliner Floor

[aclark20]

Hey all,
I've got a 1997 Bayliner 1705 that has some floor problems. I've got a few areas that are rotted out and need replaced, and I'm hoping to avoid redoing the whole thing. There's probably about a 2x2' section under the drivers chair this is the main issue. The chair was screwed into a mounting plate on the underside of the plywood, and i'm guessing the holes were not epoxyed properly. Same thing is going on on the passenger side seat but to a lesser extent. I've also got a 8x8" spot near the back that's rotted through as well. The rest of the floor is not in terrible shape. I figure from here I've got a few options:
1) Cut out the affected areas with a skillsaw set to 45?, "patch" in new ply, glass over the top. Not sure if I'll end up loosing strength this way or not... any thoughts??
2) With a little more work, I could essentially do a more thorough job and do the whole stern end of the boat. I'd do a 45? cut side to side just aft of the consoles. Remove two boxes framed into the side of the boat, and figure out how to deal with the curved pieces above the fuel tank. More work, but probably a more appropriate solution.
3) full interior redo.... I don't really want to go here, as the open bow part of the boat is in great structural shape.

I guess the questions I have are, is patching (option 1) really an acceptable solution, or will I loose too much strength that way?

If I get into it and figure out the stringers are bad, does that force me to replace to whole stringer, including what's under the open bow, or can I splice in a new section of stringer from where I'd start the cut, presumably aft of the console??

Thanks!

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: Yet Another Bayliner Floor

I suspect that you will find quite a bit more rot lurking below deck (floor) when you open it up.

Read thru a few resto's (Bayliner & others) and you'll find that many (most?) start out as fairly small soft spots that quickly mushroom into much more involved rehab.

Cut an inspection hole at the largest of your soft spots, post some pix of what you find & we can go from there.

Plunge cuts at a 45* aren't easy to do. If you get lucky & only have to deal w/ a soft deck, I'd suggest you replace as much of it as possible. Why patch in 3 or more areas in smaller bow rider(17ft+/- correct?) when you could do a much better & thorough job doing the helm to transom deck.

You should also core drill the transom (from the interior & NOT all the way thru the hull) if you are going into rebuild mode, it'd be better to do all that is necessary, all at once.

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: Yet Another Bayliner Floor

Welcome to iBoats!

As "JBC" has eluded too, it's highly likely that your soft deck is just a symptom pointing to more severe problems below. I wouldn't worry about the 45? bevel on the saw. It's better to use cleats for patches. Try to determine how much needs to be removed in order to get you to "Good" wood and cut out a square area. Set the saw to 1/2" depth and cut out the area. If the deck is thicker than that you may need to lower to 5/8" or 3/4" and cut again. Just don't go to low and cut thru the hull. Once you have it removed you should be able to see the stringers below or if it's foam filled you'll need to inspect and or remove the foam to gain access to the stringers. It is possible to do partial stringer replacements in some cases. "Sistering" in pieces of wood is an acceptable practice.

 

[tpenfield]

Re: Yet Another Bayliner Floor

Welcome to iBoats, aclark . . . plenty of stringer and transom restorations have started out with the 'few soft/rotted places on the floor' comments. So, as mentioned, it would be best to open the floor up in the rotted areas and take a look at what is below, in terms of structural members, foam, etc.

Post some pictures when you can as that always helps for better responses to your exact situation.

 

[aclark20]

Re: Yet Another Bayliner Floor

Welcome to iBoats!
I wouldn't worry about the 45? bevel on the saw. It's better to use cleats for patches.

Thanks for the responses guys! Not sure if the weather will cooperate tonight, but it sounds like my first step is the same regardless of which option ends up being best.... that is cut out the worst area, inspect, and post pictures!

Can you elaborate on using cleats for patches? I don't have much experience with fiberglass & boat repairs.

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: Yet Another Bayliner Floor

Your wish Is my command. This drawing illustrates a deck patch using cleats. Cleats are 3" wide strips of 3/4" plywood Screwed to the deck with a 1" reveal for the patch to be screwed and glued to. Peanut Butter is what we call Thickened Polyester Resin. You mix Resin with cabosil filler till it's the consistency of Creamy Peanut Butter so it fills the crack of the plywood patch so no water can penetrate. You should also predrill the screw holes and coat the holes and the screws with the PB.

 

[aclark20]

Re: Yet Another Bayliner Floor

That's what I was thinking it was, just wanted to be sure! Thanks for the super helpful picture!

I'll be back later this week with some pictures!

 

[dawg11]

Re: Yet Another Bayliner Floor

I to am replacing the floor in my capri . from reading I think I got it figured out , all but one thing . Everyone says remove the soggy foam . I agree great idea . My question is do I replace the foam ??? Or just remove and recover with flooring ??

 

[tpenfield]

Re: Yet Another Bayliner Floor

I to am replacing the floor in my capri . from reading I think I got it figured out , all but one thing . Everyone says remove the soggy foam . I agree great idea . My question is do I replace the foam ??? Or just remove and recover with flooring ??

Welcome to iBoats, dawg . . .

It would be best to post your question in your own thread. That way, it does not de-rail the dialogue of the original poster and their topic, even though your question is related.