Won’t stay running 125 force pestoline

[cyclops222]

I feel for you. You have so many different things to correct. Stay with it.

 

[Oillywater]

I feel for you. You have so many different things to correct. Stay with it.

Haha I do I really do honestly wanna give up but I really wanna go fishing in the boat I’ve never been fishing out in a boat

 

[The Force power]

So adjust my floats. And then figure out why I can’t adjust timing. Would it be a bad cdi box or coil

CDI electronics has a trouble shooting guide to check the ignition-system.
look for the Force section, after your ignition is verified to be working follow the steps below that the late Frank posted years ago;

1.Disconnect the ball link to the carb cam at the timing tower. Disconnecting at the cam risks bending the cam. Move the cam away from the carb roller.
2. Loosen the screw(s) on the aluminum tie bar and let all carbs close completely, then tighten again.
3. Set the cam so that the scribed line is pointing directly at the black roller on the carb lever. If the cam has two closely spaced lines, set the black roller directly between them.
4. The black roller is held with an offset screw and nut. Loosen the nut and turn the screw until the black roller JUST touches the cam. Tighten the nut and re-attach the ball link maintaining the scribed line at the roller.
5. Adjust the ball link so that at full throttle the bottom carb butterfly opens substantially horizontally. Adjust the aluminum tie bar so all carb butterflies open equally at full throttle. They need not be perfect but should be rather close to horizontal for best performance.
6. Adjust timing to 28 degrees before top dead center at full throttle. ( STATIC TIMING / CRANKING SPEED )
7. Adjust idle speed to 700-750 RPM in the water in forward gear. Do this with the screw on the bottom of the timing tower. Loosen the locknut and adjust. Screwing in increases idle speed. Do this in small increments and let the engine rev and adjust itself before the next adjustment. A little goes a long way here. When correct, tighten the nut. Note that the scribed line on the roller will now be (usually) below the black roller a bit.
8. NOW we adjust the mixture on the carbs. Set all low speed needles to about 1 1/4 turns out from lightly seated. Do not force as this will damage either the needles or the seats.
8A. With the engine idling in neutral, turn each the needles in equally about 1/8 turn at a time. Give the engine a couple of seconds between each adjustment to stabilize. Adjust until the engine either "sags" or stalls. Note this setting.
8B. Now go the opposite direction. Adjust until the engine runs rough, burbles, or stalls. Note this setting.
8C. Set all needles to the average between the two settings: That is, for example, if it stalled at 3/4 turn out and burbled at 1 1/4 out then set all needles to 1 turn out.
8D. Readjust idle speed to 700-750 RPM.
9. Take the boat out on the water and do a "hole shot"--Full throttle acceleration from a stop. If the engine "sags" then recovers and picks-up it is too lean. Open the needles about 1/16 turn at a time until the engine accelerates with no hesitation.
If the engine sputters or coughs or burbles, then clears itself and accelerates, it is too rich. Close the needles about 1/16 turn at a time until the engine accelerates smoothly.
10. I can NOT stress this enough! NEVER set the low speed needles less that 1 turns out no matter how poor the idle or acceleration. To do so will run the engine too lean and detonation and melted pistons at or near full throttle operation will result.

 

[topgun3690]

Also known as the "Ten Steps to Success".......

 

[The Force power]

Also known as the "Ten Steps to Success".......

I live by these steps

 

[topgun3690]

I live by these steps

Same here.....if you want success, follow the steps....lol.

 

[Oillywater]

I think I might have found the problem. Maybe. So I went throw all the connections making sure something wasn’t somewhere it wasn’t supposed to be. And after double checking it I can say it’s all in the correct order.
So then I moved on to test the stator and it says to connect my test leads to cable 1 and 2 from the stator (not polarity sensitive). And I should read 210v or higher. And to set the multimeter to 400dva. But I’m not sure what dva is so I set the meter to 600 ac voltage and got 130v and to make sure I set the multimeter to 600dc volts and it showed 5v. I’ll show a picture of how I had it set up

 

[Nordin]

You have to use a DVA adapter to measure voltage right when troubleshoot CDI ignition systems.
A DVA adapter is a single wave rectifier with an electrolytic capacitor and you use it because your are not able to read the peak voltage with a VOM.
The DVA adapter rectify the AC voltage in to DC voltage and store it in the capacitor. Then you are able to read the peak voltage because it take some time for the electrolytic capacitor to discharge the voltage.
You can measure without a DVA adapter but you only see if the stator in this case put out voltage, but you do not see how much voltage.
The Prestolite system used on these Force engine need a stator output voltage DVA from 210V or higher to work properly.

 

[Oillywater]

You have to use a DVA adapter to measure voltage right when troubleshoot CDI ignition systems.
A DVA adapter is a single wave rectifier with an electrolytic capacitor and you use it because your are not able to read the peak voltage with a VOM.
The DVA adapter rectify the AC voltage in to DC voltage and store it in the capacitor. Then you are able to read the peak voltage because it take some time for the electrolytic capacitor to discharge the voltage.
You can measure without a DVA adapter but you only see if the stator in this case put out voltage, but you do not see how much voltage.
The Prestolite system used on these Force engine need a stator output voltage DVA from 210V or higher to work properly.

Ok thanks I wasn’t sure on that. I just ordered one. Did I have the setting right or should I change it

 

[The Force power]

Ok thanks I wasn’t sure on that. I just ordered one. Did I have the setting right or should I change it

With the DVA adapter attached, set your meter to DC (high) volts

 

[The Force power]

Same here.....if you want success, follow the steps....lol.

Even if there were 12

 

[topgun3690]

Even if there were 12

Good one!

 

[Oillywater]

With the DVA adapter attached, set your meter to DC (high) volts

I got the multimeter set to 600 my highest dc volt setting and it was putting out 164 between 1-2 and 154 volts between 3-4 for the stator. It says to set the multimeter to dva 400 but I only have 200 and 600 is 600 ok?

 

[Nordin]

Yes it is.
The range of the multimeter tells you how high values it will manage at the range you have choose.
If you got 164 and 154VDC with the DVA adapter the stator suppose to be bad.
You should have 210VDC or higher at cranking speed.

 

[Oillywater]

Yes it is.
The range of the multimeter tells you how high values it will manage at the range you have choose.
If you got 164 and 154VDC with the DVA adapter the stator suppose to be bad.
You should have 210VDC or higher at cranking speed.

Ok I’m glad at least I know the problem now. Hopefully that’s all
Where can I get a new one I can’t find anything that’s similar

 

[Oillywater]

Also I took the carbs out gave them a very very thorough cleaning and the floats were adjusted properly according to the manual. Some I’m not sure why the carbs are leaking. Also the carb covers have a pocket to catch gas. Does that mean it’s ok for some gas to come out

 

[The Force power]

Also I took the carbs out gave them a very very thorough cleaning and the floats were adjusted properly according to the manual. Some I’m not sure why the carbs are leaking. Also the carb covers have a pocket to catch gas. Does that mean it’s ok for some gas to come out

The covers are more a sound deflector & when tilting the engine; it's normal that gas leaks out of the throat of the carbs

 

[Oillywater]

Update. I got a new cdi stator installed it put all the leads correctly. When to time it and it still would not move. The tdc mark stays relatively close to the main timing marker.
It also doesn’t even putter now before I could get it to start for a second or 2 now it doesn’t even want to start.
So I went to measure the voltage between the leads and for 1-2 I got 174v for 3-4 I got 164v which is 10v more for both sides but still not 210. Do I have to remove spark plugs?
So my main question is why can’t I adjust the timing. Did I **** up the fly wheel by drilling and taping new threads for the pull in new locations. I woodruf key is there and perfect condition.
And did I get sold a 350$ broke. Stator
Does the Orientation matter for the stator
I just wanna go fishing on a boat

 

[Oillywater]

Or do I have 2 broken triggers. It just doesn’t make sense because the timing was adjustable before I changed it for the new one. I even changed it back to the old one and it doesn’t adjust
Or am I reading the multimeter wrong since I have it set to 600 instead of 400 like the manual says

 

[The Force power]

Update. I got a new cdi stator installed it put all the leads correctly. When to time it and it still would not move. The tdc mark stays relatively close to the main timing marker.
It also doesn’t even putter now before I could get it to start for a second or 2 now it doesn’t even want to start.
So I went to measure the voltage between the leads and for 1-2 I got 174v for 3-4 I got 164v which is 10v more for both sides but still not 210. Do I have to remove spark plugs?
So my main question is why can’t I adjust the timing. Did I **** up the fly wheel by drilling and taping new threads for the pull in new locations. I woodruf key is there and perfect condition.
And did I get sold a 350$ broke. Stator
Does the Orientation matter for the stator
I just wanna go fishing on a boat

"The tdc mark stays relatively close to the main timing marker"
you'll have to explain what you mean with this because the TDC is not a timing mark
The Stator does not control the timing, it creates voltage to charge up the pack.
The trigger is what controls the timing, have you checked the voltage output on the trigger-wires ?(while cranking the engine)
These test (as per CDI electronics) are done with the plugs out & grounded (to prevent over-charging the packs)
Have your "kill" wires(either white or black & yellow) disconnected from each other while doing these test
The orientation of the stator does not matter, however the wiring may not be long enough for proper hook-up if not mounted right
IF........you drilled in the same spots where the original treads are; you're fine / check the magnetic band in the fly-wheel to see if its loose