Won’t stay running 125 force pestoline

[Oillywater]

"The tdc mark stays relatively close to the main timing marker"
you'll have to explain what you mean with this because the TDC is not a timing mark
The Stator does not control the timing, it creates voltage to charge up the pack.
The trigger is what controls the timing, have you checked the voltage output on the trigger-wires ?(while cranking the engine)
These test (as per CDI electronics) are done with the plugs out & grounded (to prevent over-charging the packs)
Have your "kill" wires(either white or black & yellow) disconnected from each other while doing these test
The orientation of the stator does not matter, however the wiring may not be long enough for proper hook-up if not mounted right
IF........you drilled in the same spots where the original treads are; you're fine / check the magnetic band in the fly-wheel to see if its loose

So the timing mark I’m talking about is the mark mounted on the engine that you would time to. And either at wot or neutral it doesn’t adjust neutral the tdc is close to the main mark and then at wot its at like slightly less the 28degress and wont adjust. I havnt tested the trigger yet but i have two and they both don’t adjust after to remplaced the original one thing it was the problem which it might have been since the #4 lead was not actually connected to the terminal. It broke under the heat shrink.

 

[Oillywater]

So the timing mark I’m talking about is the mark mounted on the engine that you would time to. And either at wot or neutral it doesn’t adjust neutral the tdc is close to the main mark and then at wot its at like slightly less the 28degress and wont adjust. I havnt tested the trigger yet but i have two and they both don’t adjust after to remplaced the original one thing it was the problem which it might have been since the #4 lead was not actually connected to the terminal. It broke under the heat shrink.

The magnets on the out side of flywheel look fine but the magnets in the middle I’m not sure as they are in cases in the flywheel. I also already have the grounded cables disconnected as I think there’s a short in the boat harness because I get no spark with it connected. And as for stator that’s brand spanking new all shiny doesn’t put out 210v and it was 300$! I got 10v more per side the oem which is 174v from 1-2 and 164v from 3-4. Am I reading it wrong since my multimeter doesn’t have a 400 setting. I have it at 600

 

[The Force power]

So the timing mark I’m talking about is the mark mounted on the engine that you would time to. And either at wot or neutral it doesn’t adjust neutral the tdc is close to the main mark and then at wot its at like slightly less the 28degress and wont adjust.

AT cranking speed in neutral the timing for #1 will be very close to TDC (6 to 7 degrees BTDC)
AT cranking speed in W.O.T. the timing light should flash (#1 cylinder) at 28 degrees BTDC
Is the trigger-assembly even hooked-up to the timing-tower??

 

[The Force power]

The magnets on the out side of flywheel look fine but the magnets in the middle I’m not sure as they are in cases in the flywheel.

What you see in the middle is not a magnet

 

[Oillywater]

AT cranking speed in neutral the timing for #1 will be very close to TDC (6 to 7 degrees BTDC)
AT cranking speed in W.O.T. the timing light should flash (#1 cylinder) at 28 degrees BTDC
Is the trigger-assembly even hooked-up to the timing-tower??

Yea it’s all hooked up correctly. In the manual it refers to them as magnets yes they are close but not on the spot so when I go to adjust it nothing happens if I turn the screw in or out the trigger moves but the timing doesn’t.

 

[Oillywater]

Also now the motor doesn’t even wanna start with the new stator which is weird since it’s getting more volts not 210 but more. And all the leads are labeled so I put it where it goes.

 

[The Force power]

Yea it’s all hooked up correctly. In the manual it refers to them as magnets yes they are close but not on the spot so when I go to adjust it nothing happens if I turn the screw in or out the trigger moves but the timing doesn’t.

Do you get spark from the plugs?

 

[Nordin]

Yes you have to explain.
"The tdc mark stays relatively close to the main timing marker"
TDC is the zero (0) mark, to the left of the zero mark at the flywheel there are
three marks.
First left is 28dgr then 30dgr and the last one 32dgr BTDC.
You adjust the timing at WOT and set it to 28dgr BTDC at cranking speed.
It will end up with 30-32dgr when running.

 

[Oillywater]

Do you get spark from the plugs?

Yes if I spray starter fluid it turns on for alittle

Yes you have to explain.
"The tdc mark stays relatively close to the main timing marker"
TDC is the zero (0) mark, to the left of the zero mark at the flywheel there are
three marks.
First left is 28dgr then 30dgr and the last one 32dgr BTDC.
You adjust the timing at WOT and set it to 28dgr BTDC at cranking speed.
It will end up with 30-32dgr when running.

Ya I tried that but it’s not exactly at 28 it’s maybe around 25 and when I try to adjust it to 28 at wot it doesNt move no matter which way I turn the screw

 

[The Force power]

Yes if I spray starter fluid it turns on for alittle

Ya I tried that but it’s not exactly at 28 it’s maybe around 25 and when I try to adjust it to 28 at wot it doesNt move no matter which way I turn the screw

What screw?? are you turning?

 

[Oillywater]

What screw?? are you turning?

The timing screw right be low the flywheel. That connects the tower to the trigger. The timing adjustment screw

 

[The Force power]

The timing screw right be low the flywheel. That connects the tower to the trigger. The timing adjustment screw

Okay, just checking if we're on the same page
The timing has to change, when turning the "screw" the bolt-style "screw" causes the ends to get closer or further apart that in turn moves the position(rotates) of the trigger-assembly