Winterize carb

Pdevito

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does anyone put sea foam in fuel line to flush out gas before dhutdown for 4 month period. Im trying to keep carb from gumming up.
 

Lou C

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I’ve been storing my 4.3 I/O with the 4 bbl Quadrajet carb for over 20 years and never did that every spring it fires up after the fuel pump fills the carb.
 

Pdevito

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We have that blend of gas(menthonol) in phoenix for the winter gums up if sits too long. I rebuilt my carb 2 yrs ago
 

dingbat

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We have that blend of gas(menthonol) in phoenix for the winter gums up if sits too long. I rebuilt my carb 2 yrs ago
Methanol?
Are you sure it’s not ethanol?

EO or E10 will gum up over time if left untreated.

I throw a bottle a Stabil in the tank before the last outing of the season. Starts right up in the Spring
 

jimmbo

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A Fuel Stabilizer will be fine and added to the Tank, helpsthe entire Fuel system.
Now if we could only ban Alcohol from the refining of Gasoline. But a Special Interest Group will prevent that.
 

Pdevito

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Agreed it also increases the price here as we get it from ca.
 

Scott06

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does anyone put sea foam in fuel line to flush out gas before dhutdown for 4 month period. Im trying to keep carb from gumming up.
I add stabil to the tank before last run of season. Never had an issue with non ethanol or E10 doing this.
 

airshot

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I run seafoam all season then add a little heavier dose on the last tank. Never had a spring start up issue since I have been using it... 30 plus years !!
 

Pdevito

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Ive heard from a mechanic i should run it out of gas and send sea foam down the fuel line to flush out last if oxygenated gas that gums up. Any thoughts?
 

matt167

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If you wanted to flush the carb out with anything, flush it with true fuel which because of how it’s made, lasts much longer than regular gas. It’s Alkylate fuel.
 

dingbat

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Ive heard from a mechanic i should run it out of gas and send sea foam down the fuel line to flush out last if oxygenated gas that gums up. Any thoughts?
Anything that starts with “I heard” is…..$&@%#£€

My suggestion…..get a new mechanic
 

Scott06

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Ive heard from a mechanic i should run it out of gas and send sea foam down the fuel line to flush out last if oxygenated gas that gums up. Any thoughts?
to be blunt sounds like a dumb way to get gas treatment in the carb... put it in the tank so it gets mixed and run it on the way to pull it out at end of year ( or on the trailer). Has worked for me for 30 years on both E10 and non ethanol. Boat I get non ethanol dock side jetski I fill up cans with E10 at the gas station. Never an issue with either.

With the method you were told what prevents the same gas from varnishing in the tank ? So you have a clean carb and put potentially varnished fuel in it?

The real secret is to just burn the gas and change your fuel filter annually. The fuel filter will tell you what's going on before it is an issue. Its in the bowl on the bottom of the fuel pump on a 3.0.
 

jimmbo

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Personally I would Never put SeaFoam in the Fuel. Nor would I used it to clean Combustion Chambers and/or Rings. It is mostly Light Oil, and Naphtha.
I know some People swear by it, however, I swear at it.
There are far better Products for Stabilizing Gas. Mercury and BRP Market some, Sta-Bil markets a couple that are good for Marine Engines
 

JimS123

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We have that blend of gas(menthonol) in phoenix for the winter gums up if sits too long. I rebuilt my carb 2 yrs ago
Eons ago when we used leaded gas, or even later with unleaded before ethanol gas, it was common to rebuild carbs as a routine PM. But since the use of E10 I have NEVER rebuilt a carb....didn't need it.

My old classic 1980 Bonne has been running E10 ever since its inception and she runs perrrrfect, with no Carb work....EVER.

Alcohol is a natural cleaner, which keeps carbs clean. If you have gummed carbs you have another problem. Google the myths of ethanol.

Regardless, I am assuming "methonol" is a typo on your part
 

H20Rat

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Eons ago when we used leaded gas, or even later with unleaded before ethanol gas, it was common to rebuild carbs as a routine PM. But since the use of E10 I have NEVER rebuilt a carb....didn't need it.

My old classic 1980 Bonne has been running E10 ever since its inception and she runs perrrrfect, with no Carb work....EVER.

Alcohol is a natural cleaner, which keeps carbs clean. If you have gummed carbs you have another problem. Google the myths of ethanol.

Regardless, I am assuming "methonol" is a typo on your part

its not the fuel exactly, it is fuel lines that can't stand up to ethanol. They slowly dissolve and turn gummy, and that is the stuff that gums things up.

90's era sea doo PWC's are a perfect test case. Nearly 100% of their carbs gummed up eventually until you finally went through a somewhat lengthy process to replace every line. I've done three, it isn't fun!
 

JimS123

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its not the fuel exactly, it is fuel lines that can't stand up to ethanol. They slowly dissolve and turn gummy, and that is the stuff that gums things up.

90's era sea doo PWC's are a perfect test case. Nearly 100% of their carbs gummed up eventually until you finally went through a somewhat lengthy process to replace every line. I've done three, it isn't fun!
Absolutely correct. My 1950's outboards have had their fuel lines replaced with ethanol compatible rubber. No problems since then.

Our oldest SeaDoo was a 1999 and we didn't have problems with that either.

I believe most manufacturers upgraded to the appropriate rubber when the problem became evident.

An interesting side note is the old outboard motor fuel tanks. The usual gauge float was lacquered cork. Ethanol dissolved the lacquer, the float sinks, and the gauge shows empty all the time.

A $1.50 neoprene rubber stopper to replace the cork and we're back in bizness.
 

H20Rat

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Absolutely correct. My 1950's outboards have had their fuel lines replaced with ethanol compatible rubber. No problems since then.

Our oldest SeaDoo was a 1999 and we didn't have problems with that either.

been a while since I've had seadoo's, but I think you just dodged the bullet there. I THINK the cutoff years were between 97 and 98, with some of both of those years getting the old or new lines depending on what was still on the parts rack.

Surprisingly, you need over 10 ft of line for each PWC. (not the straightest routing plus a return line)
 
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