Winter Safe antifreeze - froze and cracked my block :( Help.....

[Alumarine]

Just because it bulged a plastic container doesn't necessarily mean it would expand enough to crack a block.
It could have, but there might have been another cause.

 

[89retta]

Just because it bulged a plastic container doesn't necessarily mean it would expand enough to crack a block.
It could have, but there might have been another cause.

I'm thinking the same thing. I've used the pink stuff from Home depot for the last 2 years and no problems. Last winter I put some outside. Same thing it froze and the plastic expanded. No problems with my motor. Also I don't know what part of Canada the OP lives in. But as for myself way north in Edmonton,Alberta. And trust me we have had some cold temps. This past one weeks at a time below -30. And we set a record here for not getting above 0 for about 180 days.

 

[ahicks]

I may not have read far enough, but I don't see where RV A-F was mentioned. Moot point anyway. The temp is what is important. If it was within the limits, the product is no good. The difference between RV and marine is the corrosion protection, not the temp.

Actually, you just don't see much in the way of PINK automotive anti freeze do you? Have you seen RV anti freeze that was NOT pink?

Wonder if there's a reason for that? Maybe something to do with the fact that RV anti freeze is potable, and automotive is not? And maybe somebody was making an attempt at letting others know which is in use?

To the OP, I would run your questions by the people who sold it to you/recommended using that stuff. I think maybe they might be held liable as the product they sold you is not intended for that application, nor was it recommended for use with temps typical for your area.

 

[jimmbo]

Water/ice expanding at the point of Freezing will exert over 30,000 lbs pressure per square inch. Cast Iron and Aluminum doesn't stand a chance against it

 

[Lowlysubaruguy]

Thats. For water lines and pumps its not deadly poisonous either so residue wont kill mammals. After running the system dry flush with the pink stuff then drain and blow out everything a few times letting it sit between blowing them out. Do not use it in engines or blocks real automotive antifreeze is the only thing that will work here. And then only if youve succeeded in getting it into every part of an engine meaning an inboard youd have to dunk the outdrive in a barrel full of it and run it long enough to flush out water from all areas. Best method is to pull all drain plugs make sure there not plugged and then move the boat around a little. I have a steep driveway I hang my trailer at the steepest angle for a couple days before parking it.

 

[JimS123]

Actually, you just don't see much in the way of PINK automotive anti freeze do you? Have you seen RV anti freeze that was NOT pink?

RV and marine anti-freeze is what we are talking about here. Both are pink. Both are potable. One is for engines and the other for the water system (sinks, toilet, etc.). Nobody mentioned automotive A-F until now.

 

[jkust]

No need for antifreeze. Have seen this issue a number of times from improper winterization and people think the anitifreeze will offset the job. What's the age old adage....air don't freeze. I'd happily forgo whatever corrosion inhibitor benefit I supposedly receive for the confidence of air. We are in the -35F zone where I store my boat.

 

[JimS123]

Newer motors with all those neat blue plastic plugs are just the ticket for cold climates. I'd leave mine dry too.

My boat is old and has only 2 brass plugs and a stopcock. I don't think you can drain ALL the water. My Mercury Owner's Manual specifies to add anti-freeze if going below freezing. Maybe they know more about the innards of the engine than I do.

 

[crackedblock]

Thank you for all your comments. Much appreciated! I'm going to talk to the local shop that sold me the stuff to see if they want to help. I'll also go get the stuff tested to see if it's within spec. Glad I did the winterization correctly...next year though, I'll dry winterize as many of you have suggested.


FYI, this product is af that is recommended for use in engines as well as in RVs and such. It doesn't have any ethanol so its much better in the engine "apparently".

 

[JimS123]

Ethanol is in the gas, not the water. Anti-freeze is all glycol based. One is green, the other pink. One is toxic, the other not. Neither will harm an engine and i don't think one is better than the other.

 

[crackedblock]

UPDATE:

Local dealer suggested to call the company (starbrite). I've been trying to find a local place to test the antifreeze, without much luck so far. I've been quoted 5k to repair the engine.

In the meantime, I did an expansion test in my freezer set to -18 degrees Celsius... 30 minutes into the test and it expanded. See the link below for pictures of the test...

The bottle specifically says it's good for engines and they only suggest their stronger formula for plastic or PVC pipes... How should I approach starbrite?

Pictures here: https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=19OzOse_6ag2rcI-oP2TauWUlyDvX3xMi
​​​​​​

 

[roffey]

Well I have learnt something new today, up until 5 minutes ago I thought RV antifreeze was marine antifreeze. The Stuff I use for my boat has on the label RV and Marine antifreeze. Most of the RV antifreeze up here in Canada has the same label. I always thought they were one in the same...

 

[tpenfield]

I would not hold your hopes up to get any sort of compensation from the company other than replacement cost of the antifreeze.

 

[211libwtfo]

but I always recommend air

ive always done it with air but figured it was the lazy mans way but after reading this post it’s obvious that it’s the right way!!!! Sorry about your misfortunes.

 

[crackedblock]

I would not hold your hopes up to get any sort of compensation from the company other than replacement cost of the antifreeze.

If I can prove that their AF is not up to spec (I mean, just look at the last pictures I posted, it expanded within 30 minutes. If you look at the small tube you'll see that it started overflowing), then they are at fault, are they not? I did everything correctly, the issue is their poor product.


https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=19OzOse_6ag2rcI-oP2TauWUlyDvX3xMi

 

[BRICH1260]

Could it be possible that not all water got drained from the block. Did you poke the drain holes well to dislodge any particles that might prevent it from draining completely. Sorry for your luck, I think reminders like this should serve to keep us alert to what we do and what products we use.

 

[crackedblock]

Could it be possible that not all water got drained from the block. Did you poke the drain holes well to dislodge any particles that might prevent it from draining completely. Sorry for your luck, I think reminders like this should serve to keep us alert to what we do and what products we use.

Yep I poked them all with a screwdriver. There was absolutely nothing in the holes...

 

[tpenfield]

If I can prove that their AF is not up to spec (I mean, just look at the last pictures I posted, it expanded within 30 minutes. If you look at the small tube you'll see that it started overflowing), then they are at fault, are they not? I did everything correctly, the issue is their poor product.


https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=19OzOse_6ag2rcI-oP2TauWUlyDvX3xMi

Proving a defective product and collecting money for a new engine are 2 different things. (Right?)

You may not have proved the product is defective, based on their product information.

The company will probably point the finger at you for not using the higher grade product (-100 F), where there product information seems to indicate such a precaution.

What is their product warranty?

Does it cover or exclude consequential damages?

I just don’t see them handing you a check for $5K.

 

[roffey]

Years back I remember my father using ethyl alcohol as antifreeze in the cottage plumbing (not saying he was right but just that he used it)

 

[fishrdan]

Contact the company and see what they say. I think you're SOL though.

I had a transmission failure while using a popular synthetic oil that "claimed" you can use their ATF for 50K miles under severe duty. At 48K the transmission puked, needle bearing failure, so I sent a sample of ATF off to Blackstone Labs to have them test the ATF, and their tests showed the ATF had been over run and should have been replaced long ago. I sent Blackstone's findings along with a complete claim form for $4K the the popular synthetic oil manufacturer, and they requested a sample of the ATF. I sent in a sample of the ATF and "their" lab (owned by the same popular synthetic oil manufacturer) said the ATF was still fine for continued use, claim denied............. (Aunt had the same popular synthetic oil manufacturers oil in her car, it was rattlin', told her it sounded low on oil, she said "it's good for 30K", then I added 3+ quarts of oil to her car )

To the point, they are either going to easily warranty the claim and work with you, or it's going to be a battle and cost more to sue them, than to repair it yourself. I think some companies count on this, and the warranty is only as good as the company that stands behind it....