Fishy,
Since you have a different issue, it really would be better to start a new thread. However, Board etiquette aside, it's important to understand how gasoline and air must be at precisely the correct ratio in order for any motor to run.
Since we have so many computer-controlled, fuel-injected motors these days, many of us have forgotten the nuances of mixtures, carburetors, chokes, and so on. We got into similar situations as we moved away from points-and-condenser ignition, in favor of CD magnetos. Really small motors don't lend themselves to fuel injection (due to cost), so we have to go back in our collective memories to recall how to get the best starting (and restarting) techniques.
A really warm motor, once shut off for several minutes with the throttle closed, will be too rich to restart well, because the fuel vapors permeate into the throat and intake. Think of how a hot pan of water makes steam, whereas a cold pan doesn't evaporate as quickly. Adding choke will make the over-rich condition even worse, and you can even get liquid fuel on the plugs, which then definitely will not ignite. On some older V-8 cars, the fuel would actually percolate in the carb when it was shut down hot. That led to (sometimes very complex) thermal insulators at the carb bases. You will notice that the 9.8 has such a thermal insulator between the 2 carb base gaskets, for just that reason. Of course the inverse is true: a cold start requires less air, so that the (slow to evaporate) cold fuel is mixed at the proper ration to ignite. That's why you must choke a cold motor to start.
The mechanical choke knob does two things: it closes the choke butterfly, and it also increases the throttle some. In the case of a warm restart, more throttle is good (to admit more air), but closing off the choke plate is bad, since it restricts air flow.
If you are operating in warm climes, and have a warm motor, do not add choke. Instead, add throttle, which allows more air to get in. Sometimes, the throttle rod on the MFS8/9.8 is not advanced enough to do much of anything at "restart". I like to make sure the throttle opens significantly at "restart". To get that setting right, have the warm idle/troll speed set properly, and then, with the choke OFF and the tiller throttle at minimum, unlock the phillips screw on the bellcrank of the throttle arm of the carb, and remove the slack in the loop end of the rod, then retighten the screw. That will assure that a slight increase in the tiller throttle opens the throttle plate some. You cannot make that throttle rod adjustment if the carb is not at dead slow idle, or the lack of slack in the throttle linkage will prevent returning all the way to dead slow idle.
As an alternative, just turn the throttle up a little more, say to 1/2 throttle until the motor fires, then slow down to idle quickly as the motor comes to life.
