What year outboard is this Super Seahorse 40hp?

[racerone]

Any water in there is too much.----You need to replace all the seals.----Including the o-ring on the shift rod .---That o-ring is a major leak point if it is 40 years old or more.----No special tools needed for this simple work.

 

[matt167]

Any water in there is too much.----You need to replace all the seals.----Including the o-ring on the shift rod .---That o-ring is a major leak point if it is 40 years old or more.----No special tools needed for this simple work.

Yes, I know. I'll get the parts coming. I figured I'd replace the shift rod or ring too. Is the prop shaft seal diffacult like a Merc or is it simple? It's not leaking right now.
I have a pressure tester that I manufactured out of a bike pump but I pretty much know it's going to leak.

Looking like 304764, 301877 and 302588 are all that is needed

 

[oldboat1]

Chance it's finding it's way down to the intake via the AV plate from the vent plug washer?

 

[matt167]

Chance it's finding it's way down to the intake via the AV plate from the vent plug washer?

nope, coming out the water intakes on the opposite side.

 

[matt167]

I got the parts ordered, all OEM. Just got anything that said seal or gasket from the gear case IPL.

 

[matt167]

I just and went and re changed the gear lube to flush out any water remaining and realised where the extra lube had come from.. I simply pumped a couple pumps extra past full and let it run out, not giving any thought to the fact it was running down the leg... But now everything is wiped off, if it leaks again I'll know

 

[matt167]

what special tools do I need for this? I watched a video using pretty much all the special tools, but I don't even know where to look, or even if they are needed.

I have the 1966 Suppliment manual but could not find the main manual referenced. Found an old Clymer manual for $6 to have something

 

[racerone]

In my opinion there are no " special " tools needed to do a gearcase reseal on that lower unit.---Shift rod o-ring can in fact be replaced without removing the bushing.----Just take it apart and see how simple it is.

 

[matt167]

I was wondering that. Seemed like you could pick it out without driving the bushing. I may have bought the bushing though, I don't remember

 

[racerone]

Another easy way is to run a 5/16-NC tap ( 3 or 4 threads ) into the bushing.----Pull it out with threaded rod.

 

[oldboat1]

Something seems wrong here. I'm recalling that the bottom plug is the drain and fill hole. The top plug is a vent. Procedure is to fill from the bottom until oil begins to leak from the vent hole, then tighten the vent screw and (quickly) insert and tighten the bottom/fill screw. On all outboards, oil is always filled through the lower of two holes. The pump mechanism works best, and is slightly less messy.

 

[matt167]

Something seems wrong here. I'm recalling that the bottom plug is the drain and fill hole. The top plug is a vent. Procedure is to fill from the bottom until oil begins to leak from the vent hole, then tighten the vent screw and (quickly) insert and tighten the bottom/fill screw. On all outboards, oil is always filled through the lower of two holes. The pump mechanism works best, and is slightly less messy.

Yup, the top is even marked " Vent ". I use a 1qt outboard gear oil pump and standard Quicksilver gear lube as that is what is available locally, and pump from the drain up to the vent, just like your supposed to.. The first time I changed it, when I noted a little water in the oil I pumped quite a bit extra which came out of the vent. I never wiped up after that and then came back later and thought it leaked again. I changed it again, and wiped up and it has not leaked any more

 

[oldboat1]

Ah -- understood. Good boating to you!

 

[matt167]

Another problem I found with this engine is that it completely floods sometimes.. Run great then floods itself out.. I know it's a stuck float or a needle and seat issue as gas pours out of the carb throat when it happens. Question is, why only sometimes? It happened at the lake and I had to use the trolling motor to get back after just floating around for a while. I didn't pull the hood at the lake, I knew I smelled fuel and that was it. I ran it in the barrel yesterday and sure enough I was able to repeat it. Ran great for 30 mins or so, then it started to load up and I could watch the gas pour.

I'm going to pull the leg off this weekend and hopefully finish both jobs

 

[racerone]

The simple carburetor and the float and float valve need attention.

 

[matt167]

The simple carburetor and the float and float valve need attention.

yeah, I know. I have pulled many of these type carbs apart and it's not a hard job. I actually found an old thread on an RDS-25 with the same symptoms.. The float has to be sticking down if the float level gets to a set point, it won't come back up