What´s the best replacement for AQ271C (or 570) 5.7 GM engine, ideally stroker?

bollerwagon

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Finally, I´m proceeding, the block will be machined. I plan to exchange and upgrade some parts. I have a list what I want to purchase for that. It would be great if you could comment and throw some wisdom/experience at me.

Questions would be:
- whats missing?
- whats not necessary to change because old part can be reused
- is the chosen part a wise choice?


PositemPart #Link
1Fel-Pro Rear Main SealsFel-Pro BS40656
2Hauptlager Clevite P-Series Main BearingsMS-909P
3Clevite P-Series Rod BearingsCB-663P(8)
4Sealed Power Cam BearingsSLP-1235M
5freeze plugsSUM-G1581
6Speed-Pro Hypereutectic Excess Pistons 020SLP-H423DCP20
7Sealed Power Performance Piston RingSLP-E-251K20
8COMP Cams High Energy Hydraulic Roller LiftersCCA-850-16
9Timken Timing Cover SealsTMK-9845
10Melling High-Volume Oil PumpMEL-M55HV
11Fuel Pump Block off plateSUM-420001
12Push rodsmeasure first
13Fel-Pro Performance Marine Head GasketsFEL-17030
14hed boltsARP-1343601
15Exhaust Manifold Gaskets FEL-1405
16water pump gasketSCE-21101
17Torque Fastener Assembly LubricantARP-1009909
18Silicone Gasket MakerPTX-82180
19Reluctor ringADO-10190917
20assembly prelubeCCA-153 / SLP-55403B
21Spark Plugs BKR5EIXMSD-3724
22Roller tip rocker armsCCA-1418-16
23Valve springsCCA-981-16
24Valves Exhaust 1.60SUM-V8010-8
25Valves Intake 2.02SUM-V8002-8
Timing Chain?
 

Scott Danforth

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Look at a comp cams K-kit where everthing comes as one box. It is usually a better deal
 

Scott Danforth

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can you be more specific? What is a k-kit? are there differerent ones? which one is recommended?
A k-kit is cam, lifters, springs, timing chain, etc. Look up the cam you want on comps web site
 

Scott06

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can you be more specific? What is a k-kit? are there differerent ones? which one is recommended?
This is a K kit for BBC but you get the idea has springs retainers etc that should work together. Should eliminate any mismatch issues like wrong springs etc. Make sure the machinist checks the valve spring, retainer, seal clearance installed height etc. You never know what was done to the heads previously. I replaced the cam in my 65 GTO and when I had it apart the guy who did the last valve job screwed up his measurements so with stock cam retainer was kissing the teflon seals he installed. By the books the slightly higher lift cam I was installing should have worked with stock valve train. I would have broken something had I not checked this.

 

Scott Danforth

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alldodge

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Bearing clearances need to be sized for it, and return oil channels from the heads need to be sized so it can take the return. Then need an oil pan large enough so you don't run out.

Need to block off the bypass on the block otherwise all the extra oil dumps back to the pan so increasing heat with no added value. Remote oil filter lines need to be at least AN-8 but -10 is better.

Your going to see about 100 psi at cold idle and would drop around 80 after warmed up
 

Scott Danforth

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But was the idea to safe some money? Because sticking to the original parts seems to be the more economical choice.
if you want to save money, find a low mileage 1996-2000 truck with a 5.7 and buy the motor for $125, then swap the core plugs and head gaskets.

roller tip rockers are not needed, and you shouldnt need valves, because if your motor needs valve, the valve seats are probably toast. at that point, new fully assembled heads would be the lowest cost.
 

bollerwagon

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That is not really an option over here. Assuming I will bore mine and can reuse cam and crank. Skipping the oil pump upgrade if not needed. can I work with the list above or are there improvements to make?
 

Scott Danforth

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That is not really an option over here. Assuming I will bore mine and can reuse cam and crank. Skipping the oil pump upgrade if not needed. can I work with the list above or are there improvements to make?
if you are re-using your cam, you can re-use the lifters. just keep the lifters labeled. would also suggest you mic the cam bearings as they rarely need changing unless you are going to fire-clean the block

if you are re-using a crank, a new crank is about the same cost as reconditioning your current crank.

I would re-use your existing stamped rockers, springs, valves, etc if you are using the existing cam and just have the heads inspected

Stock GM head bolts are only $35 a set vs the ARP head studs which are not needed on a stock motor
 

bollerwagon

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I had the engine at a workshop and since I don´t have any expertise, I do as they say. They say, they want to remove the freeze plugs, since the ultra sonic bath will be able to remove more rust and stuff then.
Cam will be checked it it´s okay, so far it loos fine and bust needs some polish at the spots where it touches the bearings.
They said to replace the cam bearings and put back in the cam (about 150 USD by the way)

I labelled the lifters and the direction, I was just told to replace them. If you say that´s not needed, I won´t.

The GXi has the roller tip rockers to crank out 20 more horsepower. This costs 250 USD, and it will be a all original GXi block. This is why I´d vote for this upgrade.

Headbolts were picked by summit, do you know the part numer of the stock parts?

How about the pistons, are those a good pick?

If there are other parts that improve power or fuel efficency (gas is about 8.20 USD per gallon here) for a small surcharge, I am open to it!
 

Scott Danforth

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I had the engine at a workshop and since I don´t have any expertise, I do as they say. They say, they want to remove the freeze plugs, since the ultra sonic bath will be able to remove more rust and stuff then.
Cam will be checked it it´s okay, so far it loos fine and bust needs some polish at the spots where it touches the bearings.
They said to replace the cam bearings and put back in the cam (about 150 USD by the way)

I labelled the lifters and the direction, I was just told to replace them. If you say that´s not needed, I won´t.

The GXi has the roller tip rockers to crank out 20 more horsepower. This costs 250 USD, and it will be a all original GXi block. This is why I´d vote for this upgrade.

Headbolts were picked by summit, do you know the part numer of the stock parts?

How about the pistons, are those a good pick?

If there are other parts that improve power or fuel efficency (gas is about 8.20 USD per gallon here) for a small surcharge, I am open to it!
roller tip rockers do not give you 20hp. going from a 1.5:1 to 1.6:1 rockers can add power. the roller tip just reduces friction.

only thing to improve fuel efficiency is oars or sails. internal combustion 4-stroke motors burn 0.4# of fuel per HP per hr. so if you make power, you burn fuel

here are all the summit head bolts


here are the GM labeled head bolts at $54 https://www.summitracing.com/parts/nal-12495499/make/chevrolet

Here is where GM buys most of their parts from for $25 (what I buy for stock motors) https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mah-gs33285/make/chevrolet

here are the 1.5:1 roller tip rockers https://www.summitracing.com/search...ortOrder=Ascending&keyword=roller tip rockers

here are the 1.6:1 roller tip rockers https://www.summitracing.com/search...ortOrder=Ascending&keyword=roller tip rockers
 

bollerwagon

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Gentlemen, will it or won´t suck my pan dry? I have a melling M55HV already and a spring to reduce it to standard pressure (instead of high pressure). Can I just drop it in without having a problem?

a high volume oil pump from melling (and no, it wont suck your pan dry) https://www.melling.com/product/gm-cast-iron-oil-pump-select-performance/

Bearing clearances need to be sized for it, and return oil channels from the heads need to be sized so it can take the return. Then need an oil pan large enough so you don't run out.

Need to block off the bypass on the block otherwise all the extra oil dumps back to the pan so increasing heat with no added value. Remote oil filter lines need to be at least AN-8 but -10 is better.

Your going to see about 100 psi at cold idle and would drop around 80 after warmed up
 

Scott Danforth

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I ran the stock M55HV on my 271C after I upgrated the cam and vortec heads and never had a problem.
 

bollerwagon

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I´ve ordered the stuff now. I wonder what I forgot and if it will work...
Any idea, where I can get a cheap closed cooling set for the MPI and the 271C?
 

Scott Danforth

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If you want cheap, it wont be good. If you want good, it wont be cheap

Suggest san juan (now orca) or find a complete CHAMP setup
 

bollerwagon

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The heads from the AQ271C are being machined, they got new valves also.
What´s confusing is that the exhaust valves are not really deap in their seat, they seem to stay right in the fire.
I have no expertise here, it just feels wrong. Or at least not ideal. But I think it wasa pretty similar with the old valves too.
Ideas, anyone?

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